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Intake and Exhaust Intake and Exhaust Systems for Road Glides

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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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I guess I'll start off my first post with a nice screw up. I upgraded my glide with new Jackpot headers, CFR's and a Power Vision. All went well except for torquing down the nut on the front pipe by the down tube. I marred the nut up good but got it fairly tight. Rode it for a few weeks and it ran and sounded great, but It bugged the hell out of me, so I picked up new nuts this morning, decided to change both on the front pipe all was going good, then...snap. I snapped the stud on the left, I was no where near the 100-120 in-lbs that is in the specs.

Drilling and removing the broken stud is nothing I want to tackle. Does any one know what I'm looking at with the dealer doing this?


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 05:28 PM
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Sorry man couldn't resist. I stripped one of the torque screws on the clutch inspection cover, and HD wanted 1 hour to remove screw and 4.50 for a new screw plus tax.............Find a local machine shop and have them give you a quote, if they aren't busy they may cut you a break...

Last edited by coiledup; 11-11-2012 at 05:30 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 05:37 PM
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I agree with finding a local machine shop versus letting the dealer perform that job as they will have more experience and will most likely perform a better job and be less expensive - maybe

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 05:51 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Will ask a few ppl around here. Any thoughts on whether the one nut would be stable enough to idle over to a shop.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 06:00 PM
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Vice grips/Channel locks work, and have some heat applied to the area, don't wanna twist on a cold piece of metal.

2012 Road Glide Custom Vivid Black, SE254E Cam's, Drago's head pipes, CFR's, SE Race Tuner, SE Heavy Breather. This is just the begining. . . .
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 09:51 PM
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If this was the rear head it would be a LOT easier to deal with. But the front, , you're really better off removing the head.

If the head's off you can weld a nut onto the remaining stud if there's enough exposed. If it's below surface you *may* be able to center a drill which is smaller than the actual unthreaded portion of the stud, then you can remove the threads that are left manually... worse case send the head to a shop that can use EDM to remove it.

OR, buy a used head on ebay for less than most of the options...

...AND there's no way you snapped that stud at 100-120" inch lbs... OEM spec on the exhaust nut is about 16-20ft lbs.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
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Rage, it snapped at the top of the flange, so there's about 1/4" left proud of the head. I was gradually raising the torque, so it was around 85 in-lb when it snapped. I did torque it down 2X prior to today, trying to get the right nut down. Is there a max number of times before you should change a stud? Also, this is a new torque wrench, should I see if it is accurate?


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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 10:31 PM Thread Starter
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RageGlide, is there a max number of times you can torque a stud or bolt down before tou need to replace it? I torqued this one down 2X before. This time I gradually increased it, going by feel from toque wrench to offset box, so I would have an even seat. I think attached a pic of the setting on the wrench, but I'm on an iPad and don't have a fscking clue if I did it right. Saving grace in all of this was the gifted Jameson on the shelf.

If the other 3 posts from the iPad (app) show up, apologies in advance.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Biljac View Post
RageGlide, is there a max number of times you can torque a stud or bolt down before tou need to replace it? I torqued this one down 2X before. This time I gradually increased it, going by feel from toque wrench to offset box, so I would have an even seat. I think attached a pic of the setting on the wrench, but I'm on an iPad and don't have a fscking clue if I did it right. Saving grace in all of this was the gifted Jameson on the shelf.

If the other 3 posts from the iPad (app) show up, apologies in advance.
I said OEM torque was 16-20 ftlbs.. ok, that was an exaggeration. But the reality is, as long as you don't Over torque the stud, it should be good for the life of the engine. Of course, cross threading tosses all bets to the wind. These are probably grade 5 at best. So of course you can over do it and bust the freakin things... If you cross threaded the nut you probably could break the stud at lower than spec torque due to metal fatigue.

You really can't easily change these studs without doing damage to the threads. (same goes for replacing cylinder head studs) Welding a nut is great option because you put a lot of heat into the region real fast, which makes it easier to get the stud out (while it's still screamin hot).

Someone who deals with this kind of thing on a daily basis is worth the money.

BTW - I also have a Jackpot header and have been fighting an exhaust leak on my front head also. So I know what you're going thru (well except I have not broken the stud). The fit is not typical so I've found this to be a bit frustrating. I pitched the stock tapered gaskets, replacing with 2 SE flat gaskets and the fit is much better in my opinion.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 05:25 AM
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check this tool out. i had the same thing happen and took it to the local indy for repair. he was able to drill it out on the bike, so total bill ended up right at $100. he used the jims version of this tool, which in itself runs about $100, this one is virtually the same, but much cheaper.

http://georges-garage.com/tc_engine_2.htm

scroll down the page and look at item 340070

I understand the concept of reality, but find it too confining for a way of life.
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