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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 05:30 PM
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In your first post you said you fill it to the full mark. That is your problem.
Cold it should only be half half way up the stick the full mark is when then engine is HOt not warm but full operting summer day hot.

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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 06:03 PM
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3.5 quarts on an oil change and you won't have any problems. Average 30k a year and change oil every 5k. No puking.

2011 FLTRX,Fat Shots Pipes,Wind Vest Windshield,Dobeck EJK, Chrome forks, 2+2 bars, SE Ventalator breather, Andrews 48 H Cams, Rivera Taper Lite Pushrods
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-11-2012, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by CR3999 View Post
Man, what is up with the oil blowing out the breath every time I get on the road. It is not over filled, my Fatboy would puke oil out if it was a little on the high side. But I don't over fill my bike with oil. If the oil gets about a quart low it pretty much stops puking. It just pisses me off to wash the bike and wax and a hundred miles down the road oil everywhere. What do you folks do to stop this?

Man I feel better now.
My 10 and the 12 did this. I replaced the O'Rings in the Breather ~ No More oil~ Guessin inside the breather ~ but at least my saddlebags are now clean ~ also ~ When I change the Oil ~ I put 3 qts 10 oz in ~ this usually is at the top of the stick when hot....

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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-12-2012, 01:45 AM
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I've wondered about this myself. Great answers.

- George

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Maybe you can't buy happiness but you can buy a motorcycle and that's pretty darn close.
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 01:01 AM
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Well, at least for me, I think I've solved the issue. I adjusted my riding style. I used to use engine braking for slowing down quite a bit before applying the brakes. However, I now use the clutch more frequently and allow the engine to return to idle when slowing down. It occurs to me that the reason this reduced (if not eliminated as no oil noted as of late) oil "pukage" is due to the following:

- At engine speeds above 1000 rpm, regardless of throttle position, or why the engine is spinning at higher rpm, pressure builds up in the head/valve train area of each cylinder.

- When you use engine braking, the throttle and butterfly in the intake is closed, effectively eliminating any negative vacuum that would normally have pulled oil mist into the combustion chambers to be burned.

- When you have the throttle open at all, there is enough vacuum to evacuate the oil/air mist from the intake area inside the air cleaner, effectively scavenging any residual oil back into the combustion chamber to be burned and exhausted with normal exhaust through the pipes.

Color me whacky, but this seems to make a difference. ...for now.

Ok, fire away, I have my flak jacket on.

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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 11-16-2012, 01:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bikepsych View Post
Well, at least for me, I think I've solved the issue. I adjusted my riding style. I used to use engine braking for slowing down quite a bit before applying the brakes. However, I now use the clutch more frequently and allow the engine to return to idle when slowing down. It occurs to me that the reason this reduced (if not eliminated as no oil noted as of late) oil "pukage" is due to the following:

- At engine speeds above 1000 rpm, regardless of throttle position, or why the engine is spinning at higher rpm, pressure builds up in the head/valve train area of each cylinder.

- When you use engine braking, the throttle and butterfly in the intake is closed, effectively eliminating any negative vacuum that would normally have pulled oil mist into the combustion chambers to be burned.

- When you have the throttle open at all, there is enough vacuum to evacuate the oil/air mist from the intake area inside the air cleaner, effectively scavenging any residual oil back into the combustion chamber to be burned and exhausted with normal exhaust through the pipes.

Color me whacky, but this seems to make a difference. ...for now.

Ok, fire away, I have my flak jacket on.


Engine braking and blipping of the throttle are the proper way to slow the bike down.

You should not have to adjust this for your oil woes. Look elsewhere, like seeing if you're overfilling the oil. Note the posts above about cold/hot oil fill levels.

Engine braking is the proper way to slow/stop a bike, and I've done it on every one I've owned, including my RGC, and none have ever had this oil puking issue... including my RGC.

2012 Road Glide Custom Black Denim
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