Fuel and volt gauges stopped working randomly today. Lights to the gauges also not lighting up to the fuel and volt gauges. I checked fuses, connections to gauges, handlebar etc. Bike starts runs fine, radio works, speedo tach work, no check engine light. Turn signals and joysticks work. Im at a loss at this point...what say you Guru's??
Kind of odd, the lights for the gauges and the sensors are on different connectors for the gauges. Only thing they seem to have in common is being located towards the top of the fairing. I can't imagine you hit a few bumps really hard and jarred them loose? Have you ever had the fairing off? If not, it seems you may need to take a look, I can't think of another way to trouble shoot without removing the fairing. Maybe someone else will chime in who knows something I don't.
Rock, it's easy to miss a blown fuse just by checking by eye.
I would check all the fuses with a test light just to make sure they are all good.
After that, I would pull the main fuse for 30 sec. to a minute then replace it to see if that resets everything.
If that doesn't work I would make sure that you have power and ground to the gauges and lights that aren't working.
Hope this helps.
Mike U.
Thanks brothers...gonna rest on it and go at your suggestions with fresh eyes and mind tomorrow...Consulting with Jack Daniels for awhile and he says try tomorrow. :laugh:
Well I couldn't resist. Had the gf drive me to the parts store and got a fuse tester and fuses. Grabbed a k&n oil filter while I was there. 5k is due. Anyway I tested all fuses. All tested good. Grounds and connections checked again. All solid connections.
In your pic you show a 2015RG so it is a can buss system so that creates a whole new can of worms. You may have to go to harley and have them plug it in to the computers and it will tell you exactly what it is. That's my understanding anyway. Good luck.
Boy I'd hate to do that. Gonna pull the codes and see what I can find out with them. I found how to do that...
Harley Diagnostic Codes
To access codes
1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.
2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.
4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" (on mine the “t” looks more like a “╘” )with the first P flashing.
5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer
To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
1 - Record the codes.
2 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 3 If the code is current it will reappear.
4 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
5 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
On models not equipped with a tachometer "No Rsp" will appear when the tachometer identifier is selected.
"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
1. U1300 Serial Data Low
2. U1301 Serial Data High
3. U1016 Loss of ECM Serial Data
4. U1255 Serial Data Error
5. B1142 Smart Security System Internal Fault
6. B1135 Accelerometer Failed
7. B1136(HFSM) Accelerometer Tip Test Error
8. B1151 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Ground
9. B1152 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) Short to Battery
10. B1153 Bank Angle Sensor(BAS) High
11. B1154 Clutch Switch Input Short to Ground
12. B1155 Neutral Switch Input Short to Battery
13. B1134 Starter Output High
14. B1121(TSM) Left Turn Output Fault
B1121(HFSM) Left Turn Output Open
15. B1122(TSM) Right Turn Output Fault
B1122(HFSM) Right Turn Output Open
16. B1123(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Ground
17. B1124(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Ground
18. B1125(HFSM) Left Turn Output Short to Battery
19. B1126(HFSM) Right Turn Output Short to Battery
20. B1143(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Ground
21. B1144(HFSM) Security Antenna Short to Battery
22. B1145(HFSM) Security Antenna Open
23. B0563 Battery Voltage High
24. B1131(HFSM) Alarm Output Low
25. B1132(HFSM) Alarm Output High
26. B1141(TSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open..
B1141(HFSM) Ignition Switch Low/Open
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#2
The newer bikes are a little different with the code menu. But first 3 steps get you the menu. Then one press of the odometer reset button scrolls through each field. Long press opens and shows the codes in each field
ECM-
P1512- ETC forced idle mode
P2122- TGS 1 low/open
P2127- TGS 2 low/open
P2138- TGS correation error
U0001- CanBus Fault
U0140- Lost communication with BCM
U0141- Lost communication with LHCM
U0142- Lost communication with RHCM
U0156- Lost communication with Speedometer
ABS-
U0142- Lost communication with RHCM
U0001- CanBus Fault
U0003- Network management monitoring
RDO-
NONE
B2141- Left turn signal output open
B2146- Right turn signal output open
I was able to use my old bikes FP3 to pull some additional codes and definitions. Oddly enough checking the codes with infotainment system was unable to help saying no DTC codes present...
It's a 2015 bike so use the warranty. If you screw up the wiring or you make some other type of mistake you may be responsible and have to pay out of pocket.
I swapped out the bars awhile ago, but fuel/volt gauges were working after the bar change. Plan to take it in, just dont wanna pay out of pocket of course. Hoping warranty will cover it! :surprise:
Due to the holidays and having kids, gf and family off~ It'll have to wait til next week. Time with family is more important than hanging around the dealer all day while they troubleshoot/fix the bike. Although I could drop it off and pick it up I guess. But there again with the holiday, it'll probably be until next week til there is any resolution with it anyway. It starts, runs and rides fine. So I can do without the fuel/volt gauges for awhile.
Ok, got it figured out and fixed! While talking with a buddy yesterday, he mentioned that it had to be a bad connector and suggested that I check pins in connectors. All it takes is one pin to be muffed up in the system to screw it up. Sure enough, the connector that plugs into the speedo/tach cluster had a bent pin that wasn't connecting. Must have been when I took it apart to install the poly bushings after the bars. I changed the bushings several days after the bars since they hadn't arrived yet. Patience and perseverance and the brainstorming with a few friends got me to the solution. That's what is great about these forums. People with fresh thoughts unattached to the problem always seem to offer help and a new perspective. I was so focused on that it wasn't working, what it could be and frustrated that I didn't think of the small things. Saved me god knows how much taking it to the "steeler" for them to solve it...:grin:
I had the same problem today... turned on the ignition.. cranked the engine n boom everything went off... fuel n batt gauges reset to zero with no lights.. speedo not working.. rpm stuck at 1500rpm.. the lcd on the speedo is blank n none of the lights on the speedo are working.. both meters no lights as well... only the boombox works.. the boombox reset itself too with the clock n programmed fm staions all lost... mine is a 15 RGS with only 500kms on it.. engine runs fine...nothing changed or swapped out yet.. bringing it to the dealer to get it sorted... its a bummer tho cause was planning on a holiday ride
Hope you get it straightened out! Let us know what caused it. Mine was a bent pin, found when a friend told me to check them. I checked that all connectors were connected, but didn't think of checking the individual pins...
Well the dealership insists on a full diagnostics to root out the problem.. but being the holiday season and all they can only see to it next week... which is alright cause they also installing the upgraded boom2 i ordered.. so till then im riding the 13 rg. Compliments of the dealership
If it makes you feel any better Rock, on Christmas Eve me and the Mrs. decided to take a ride and have lunch. I'm sitting at a busy intersection in town and my bike sputters and quits............. So we dismount and push the bike up on the sidewalk.
Wife says: "did we run out of gas"?
I say: "don't think so, the fuel gauge still shows a 1/4 tank and the range meter still shows 51 miles".
I continue trying to start the bike to no avail. Guy in tow truck pulls up and offers assistance. Turns out I met him at a bike rally earlier in the fall.
He says: "did you run out of gas"?
I say: "don't think so, the fuel gauge still shows a 1/4 tank and the range meter still shows 51 miles".
He says: "open the tank and check any way".
So I do......... guess what? Out of gas He has a gas can so I put in about a 1/4 gallon and the bike fires right up. Ride to gas station and proceed with remainder of ride.
Dealership got back to me.. apprently the speedo meter went dead... as the power for all the gauges are connected to the speedo the rest are not being powered too... its a warranty claim.. so now i have to wait till the speedo cluster part gets shipped in from US...
Glad you got is figured out and covered under warranty.
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