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HD Heated Grip Install on 2015 RG (with pictures)

30K views 39 replies 24 participants last post by  RhodeGlide-RI 
#1 · (Edited)
I just completed a HD heated grip install on my 2015 RG and thought I would post pictures/ summary to help others.

These are the grips I installed. It has the curious notation of "Not for use with internally wired handlebars" even though the HD website shows they will work. Perhaps this is in reference to the way the power feed wires are routed (which is externally for this set).


In addition to the grips, this is what's in the package. You won't use all of it.


I tried to document key steps with pictures but because I went back and took some pictures later things in the background may seem out of sequence.

This package says that it requires installation of "Electrical Connection Kit 69200722". I know some have wired grips without this harness, but I needed it for my heated seat and it was only $20.

To install the harness, take off the seat and LH side cover. Then remove 50 A main fuse. Then pull out the Body Module (do not disconnect). This gives easier access to route the very short harness through the frame and in front of the battery. I am pointing to the grey connector that I installed. You can sort of see where I routed the harness into the battery area just above my hand.


Here’s the accessory wires as viewed from above where I routed them in front of the battery.


Now to start disassembly. I used a slightly different sequence, but if doing it again I would start with Fuel Tank removal. This step is not required if you plan to attach power leads in the fairing as others have done. But to route the leads from the grips back to the accessory harness you will need the tank out. Plus it gets it out of the way to reduce risk of damage from dropped/dangling clutch and brake levers.

To remove the tank start with center console removal. Take out socket cap screw (4mm Allen) in front of gas door. Then remove the bolt at rear (3/8" hex).



Remove the gas cap and slowly lift up the console. You will need to bend back two retaining clips that hold vapor lines and fuel pump wiring.You will also need to remove a small vent line that attaches to the underside of the console near the gas cap.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
After removing the console replace the gas cap. Disconnect the fuel pump connector and vapor line and position out of the way.


To disconnect the fuel supply line (under LH side of the tank) take a rag (to catch fuel and protect from spray) and wrap it around the fitting. With rag in place pull up on the chrome fitting while pulling down on the 90 deg elbow. – sorry, no picture here.

The fuel tank is attached with 4 bolts (1/2" hex). Two in the rear and two up front under rubber covers that just pull off. For reference these bolts are torqued to 15-20 ft-lb when reinstalling. Prepare a protective surface (with a soft rag or other) to place the tank on. Once the bolts are removed carefully lift the tank and place out of the way.



Next remove the speedometer housing. If you have not yet done so, remove the main 50 Amp fuse under LH side panel. Now pull up on the rear of the chrome bezel under the ignition switch and remove.


Put the key in the ignition and rotate the handlebars to the left. Rotate the ignition switch counter clockwise, then reach under the switch and press the release button.


Now rotate the key in the tumbler another 60 deg counter clockwise. This will release the switch handle from the housing. Lift up and be careful not to drop/lose the spring underneath.


Remove the two screws on the speedo housing. Lift up housing and disconnect the 3 electrical connections underneath.

With a Torx T30 remove the clutch and brake levers. I am guessing I will get scolded by someone for saying that I just let them dangle by their hoses.

To remove the LH switch housing you will first need to remove the “Finger Switch” cap (the switch the changes your Odo to your trip meter, etc). Pictures from the shop manual are shown.
You need to pry up on the switch button while sliding it out-board.



Next remove the two T30 screws and the two halves of the switch housing. The RH side is easier since it doesn’t have the “Finger switch”.


To remove the grips, the RH side just slides off. The LH side was glued on to my handlebars. Take a sharp knife and cut the grip length wise and remove. Also remove residual glue.

On the RH side you may have a little dust-cap in the end of the throttle grip sensor, or it may remain in the grip. You want it removed, so if it’s still on the bike gently pry it off.
 
#3 · (Edited)
The little holes in the throttle-grip sensor are for the heater of the RH grip. They are wired to the black connector that comes out of the handle-bar from the RH side. This shows that female connector at the center of the bars that is pre-wired for the RH heated grip (little pin holes in throttle-grip sensor).


The connector on the center of the LH grip needs to be connected to the wire coming from the RH grip. Use a piece of weed-eater line to pull the wires through the LH side of the handle bars to the center hole.



My grip had the same polarity problem as others have reported. I cut off the connector and installed the connector they supplied. I wired the “Black with White tracer” to the white wire coming from the RH grip. Then Black to Black for the other wires.

My grips have externally wired power wires, so I routed them along the clutch hose…


…and down to the front center and then back down into the main wire harness caddy all the way back to the battery area (where the newly installed accessory wiring is waiting).


Red (Fused)----->Red/Blue
Black------>Black
Orange/White----->Violet/Blue


Re-install the LH switch cover. The LH grip has an “orientation” where the fatter part of the “flange” needs to be down in order for the LH switch covers to go on properly.

The RH grip just slips over the RH bar. If grips have a pattern check orientation to make the RH grip look like the LH grip orientation. The cap on the end of the grip comes off to provide access to the little connector that provides power for the RH grip heater. The pins are slightly offset help ensure proper polarity. Use needle nose pliers to reach in and connect it.

Re-install the cap on the RH grip

Re-install RH switch covers.

Re-install the speedo assembly, ignition switch, fuel tank, seat, LH side cover etc.

Enjoy your new grips.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Great write up. Just a note. On my 16, I didn't have to remove the switch to get the speedo/tach bezel off. It just slipped over the switch after I took off the chrome cover under the switch.Thanks for taking the time with pics to post for others that might have had the dealership do it. Leaves more money for more goodies!
 
#36 ·
I did this and ended up losing the chrome cover when I put it back on, apparently I didn't have it quite latched on. It was ok since I was planning on blacking it out and it just accelerated the process. I learned my lesson though, the trim piece goes on much more positively if you pull the switch first. From now on I will pull the switch, remove the trim, put the switch back on and do my work, reversing the process when I am done.
 
#8 ·
I don't know if they do. I thought I saw a reference somewhere that someone put some HD grips on that DID have internal power wire, but not sure.

I agree. I was disappointed at having to route the external lead. It ends up being hidden somewhat by the clutch hydraulic line, but still not as clean as internal.

The external looks like this. I imagine an internal one would have an extra connector (or cable) on the inside of the LH grip instead of a cable on the outside.
 
#9 ·
Thanks.

On the HD website they only show one set of heated grips for the '16 RG ultra. I prefer the rubber ones. Maybe they will have them in the fall.

I did see where the wires look internal on that set.
 
#10 ·
I bought a set of the standard HD heated grips and had them installed in my 15RGS internally. Haven't had any issues so far with them. Not sure how it was done I had the dealership do the install along with the 10" Klockwerks bars and a few other items. The service guy told me that they weren't made to be wired internally but they were able to do it with the bars I had chosen
 
#20 ·
I checked with the dealer about the 15-16 RGU CVO and it comes with the heated grips installed with all wires routed internally. But when he broke down the parts list, it shows the left grip as a different part number and a different drawing diagram of the grip compared to the same heated grip style (Airflow) that is sold. The CVO left heated grip (only) is priced @ $300..


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#25 ·
Saw these in my parts book. $114 each from boardtracker so a little more pricey than the accessory grips, but internal is best on the RGU. Heated grips should have came with this premium touring bike. Might have to bite the bullet and order these before my 30% discount runs out.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I bought a set of heated grips part # 5610034, and the FLHTK heated grips.

IMO they are the same Grips. Both are set up for internal wiring even though the kit says not for use with internally wired handlebars.

So, the road king shouldn't be an issue, but running the wires internally on the Road Glide might be a challenge.

So, if you want to run the wires internally anyway, Save yourselves a couple dollars and buy the kit instead of the FLHTK grips.
 
#27 ·
Great article - I wish I had seen it before installing the heated grips on my 2015 Road King! The documentation that came with the grips was confusing and, in a couple of cases, just plain wrong. It told me to pull out the right grip Throttle control and splice into the wires that came out of it, when, in reality, there was a connector behind the headlight that was made for that. Also, I wasted time removing the Nacelle. The left grip had a small rubber portion next to the wire that came out the side, but it was too hard to absorb the wire when mounting the grip on the bike, so I had to cut a small relief in it. And, I did manage to run the wires under the gas tank without removing it by first sending down a piece of 1/8 stranged cable through the plastic "tunnel" and using that as a wire pull.
 
#28 ·
I modified my heated grips to be internally wired. Had to notch the plastic lip on the grips and grinded out a corner of the switch housing. Shouldn't have to rig a new bike, but wanted the cleaner look. Figure you're spending $300+ they SHOULD be internally wired....
 
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