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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 06:38 PM
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That's such a small hole that it obviously hasn't compromised the integrity of the tire. I'd plug/patch it and ride on. Worst case scenario, if it starts to redevelop a slow leak then replace the tire, or tube it.

2011 Sedona Orange RGC. Too many mods ....but never enough.

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 06:41 PM
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First off that sucks... I would replace the tire. Find a good price online have your dealer match the price or find an independent. I know of a couple that have great prices. Let me know if I can help. More than happy too.

2012 RG Custom CVO "Skunk" Construction Complete
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 07:34 PM
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Normally I would say replace, but with a hole that small and the amount of miles on the tire, I'd repair it.

2010 FLTRX, Custom paint, 107 CI, TS Bags, CM Fury 21" Wheel, too many other extra's to list.
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post #14 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 11:23 PM
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Looks like a reason to do burn outs to me. I don't know about you but our local dealer is having a 2 for 1 black Friday sale on tires. I had two flats in one week on mine. Replaced both but they were due anyway.

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post #15 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 06:14 AM
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I think Id patch it. That is so small that there is virtually no risks of the tire failing. Or put a tube in. Get as many miles out of it as you can.

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post #16 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 07:51 AM
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You're at the wear marker. Time to replace. Unless you can ride only in circles to take advantage of the tread left on the sides.
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post #17 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate everyone's thoughts - thanks guys.

I agree with those who says the integrity of the tire isn't compromised - that's just too small of an object to harm it in any significant way. If it was the typical screw or nail, I wouldn't even have asked the question - I would've just replaced the tire but that's not the case here.

I'm still debating about which route to take but I'm actually leaning towards 2010 FLTRX's suggestion and using Ride-On. My reasoning is that if I take the time and trouble (i.e., labor - mine or pay a shop), to pull the wheel, break it down and patch or tube it, I might as well just replace the tire. Not sure how many miles are left on that Metzler but I doubt there's much more than 5k, if that (more on this below).

I initially dismissed the thought of using a sealer with my custom RC wheel but from what I've read, Ride-On won't harm it … and it's not the same messy goo like other products. In fact, I really couldn't find anything bad about it in my brief research - some guys actually use it with new tires for puncture protection and dynamic balance. Worse case if it doesn't work is that I'm out about $30 and a few minutes of time. At that point I'll just replace the tire. If anyone has had a negative experience with Ride-On please share it.

On a side note, what kind of mileage are you guys getting with Metzler ME880s? (It's a 200/55R/17) Is the wear shown in the pic typical for this tire with 5,000 miles? I know rears wear more than fronts at roughly a 2:1 ratio but my front Metz looks practically brand new. I check pressure constantly and always keep it at the stated max 42 PSI as shown on the sidewall. I may have to switch brands if this is what I can expect.

-phil

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post #18 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:43 AM
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I'd try the Dunlop American Elite in that size, it has the dual tread compound, harder in the center & softer on the outside edges.
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post #19 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HD_Shock View Post
I appreciate everyone's thoughts - thanks guys.

I agree with those who says the integrity of the tire isn't compromised - that's just too small of an object to harm it in any significant way. If it was the typical screw or nail, I wouldn't even have asked the question - I would've just replaced the tire but that's not the case here.

I'm still debating about which route to take but I'm actually leaning towards 2010 FLTRX's suggestion and using Ride-On. My reasoning is that if I take the time and trouble (i.e., labor - mine or pay a shop), to pull the wheel, break it down and patch or tube it, I might as well just replace the tire. Not sure how many miles are left on that Metzler but I doubt there's much more than 5k, if that (more on this below).

I initially dismissed the thought of using a sealer with my custom RC wheel but from what I've read, Ride-On won't harm it … and it's not the same messy goo like other products. In fact, I really couldn't find anything bad about it in my brief research - some guys actually use it with new tires for puncture protection and dynamic balance. Worse case if it doesn't work is that I'm out about $30 and a few minutes of time. At that point I'll just replace the tire. If anyone has had a negative experience with Ride-On please share it.

On a side note, what kind of mileage are you guys getting with Metzler ME880s? (It's a 200/55R/17) Is the wear shown in the pic typical for this tire with 5,000 miles? I know rears wear more than fronts at roughly a 2:1 ratio but my front Metz looks practically brand new. I check pressure constantly and always keep it at the stated max 42 PSI as shown on the sidewall. I may have to switch brands if this is what I can expect.

You have some good points about the labor/cost to tube that wheel. I can see why at that point you would just replace.

Re: Metzler ME880 mileage...I run them as we'll on my Heritage Springer, and I am impressed with their grippiness...but that is because the rubber is a bit softer, and wears out faster. I went with the Metz's on that bike only because I had a custom white wall made for the front, and it was either Metz or Avon.

From what I have read, with the Turing bikes, it seems the average is about 8-10k, obviously depending too on riding style.

For your bike year, I know there aren't many options as I have had that problem too with my Street Glide. I see you bumped up to the 200 series too.

I am actually happy with the stock Dunlop tires. On my second rear, and easily had more miles left on the old one, but was approaching a long trip. Had over 11k, with the 110" motor as well. Probably could have gotten another 1000-1500 out of the back tire. Plus, they actually seem nice and grippy on the sides, and a little harder in the middle for those long cruising days...

Good luck!
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post #20 of 25 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbeard719 View Post
I am actually happy with the stock Dunlop tires. On my second rear, and easily had more miles left on the old one, but was approaching a long trip. Had over 11k, with the 110" motor as well. Probably could have gotten another 1000-1500 out of the back tire. Plus, they actually seem nice and grippy on the sides, and a little harder in the middle for those long cruising days...

Good luck!
damn, i know i don't ride like a wuss, but i replaced my original tires as a set at 20k cause i was getting ready for a trip and wanted new rubber for the ride. my replacement set is at indicated 33,000 now (13k on these tires) and are still looking good. other than the cost at the dealer, i like these tires. seem to be a good balance of wear and performance. unfortunately, dealer only to get them.

might look at the american elite rear, elite 3 front next time around though. i had e3s on my last bike and the were good.

I understand the concept of reality, but find it too confining for a way of life.
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