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Stabilizer needed for 2013?

14K views 51 replies 24 participants last post by  GlideShark 
#1 ·
Just wondering if anyone else, riding the newer framed bikes are having "handling" problems with their bikes too? I'm experiencing "rear steer", bike slides left n right at higher speeds in particular, the turns. Been thinking about adding a stabilizer from True-Track. Anyone has it? pros-cons please if you do.
 
#2 ·
There are a couple threads on this forum about them.
I just installed Progressive Touring Link.
the 09 and up frame is a big improvement over previous years, but those of us that may ride a little aggressive, still want less rear steer wobble.
the FLTRX with its 12" rear shocks, may bring this out a little more vs the 13" shocks on the Ultra.
 
#3 ·
Welcome to the forum from Florida. I'm not having a problem, but I've been thinking about getting a stabilizer just to make my bike handle better. I've been looking at the one from Alloy Art for different reasons. You may also want to check HD Forums, they are a few threads over there with the 09+ frame with a stabilizer.
 
#25 ·
Dbell, add me to the list of guys wanting to know more about this.

My 2012 was actually totally acceptable on my test track at 80+mph with stock shocks. The moment I installed Progressive 944's on the same test track has the bike squirellier than my 2005 ever was. The '05 had a true-track and it made a Huge difference.

My gut feeling is that the 944's are too soft which causes the rear to move up and down more than the front and that creates the wallow. I probably should see if Progressive will put the HD's heavier springs on the shocks. I went with the non-HD versions because I'm only 190lbs and ride solo 98% of the time.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Virtually all production MCs that weren't intended to be road-racers come with rather imprecise suspension components. Maybe start with suspension instead of frame? In addition, instead of mass-production level tolerances, maybe make sure the frame you already have and the related alignments/adjustments are correct to the precision a performance oriented owner would prefer.
 
#7 ·
I have to agree with you on this also, when I bought JRI shocks this weekend, I was amazed at how the swingarm and frame aren't properly aligned. Howard taught me how to use shims to properly mount the shocks, something I would've never thought about.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I have an '08, but, I can tell you that having put a Glide Pro stabilizer on, building my own laser alignment setup and getting it all together, my bike is completely different in a GOOD way! The bike always followed any kind of surface imperfection, and steered badly on the interstate...as in, I was constantly fighting keeping it straight.

I had to lean to the right enough that I had to keep my nose lined up with the right edge of the stereo!!!

When I did the alignment the laser lines met at the transmission and were a good inch OFF at the axles!!!!

The stock bushings were twisted (sagged) and HARD!!!! Jake uses progressively stiff Neoprene and it is also softer than the stock the theory is to make the engine mount/suspension (since the engine/trans/swingarm are one unit called the Powertrain) absorb the vibrations of the engine while taking up the slack of the suspension.

I can't say enough about the bike. Along with using Dyna Beads, I can see two miles in my rear view mirrors, ride with no hands over any surface imperfections and the bike trails PERFECTLY!!! If anyone doesn't believe I'm gonna ride with Outlaw in a couple weeks and I'll do a demo with him....I can ride straight as an arrow and do long or shorter curves no hands and the bike stays stable as if it were on rails!

The alignment has a LOT to do with Bagger wobble and tracking, especially in curves. If you think of it, the rear wheel wanting to go it's own way in a corner causes HUGE wobble.....I'm not afraid to let go of the bars in a curve that I used to fear WITH my hands on the bars....it's that much of a difference!

So I definitely echo what others have said, again I've got an '08 and don't know the difference in the bushings, but I can't imagine they are that much different, just a bigger swing arm.

Here's a pic of how far off the Factory "Alignment" was off!

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/DC-3Mek/media/LinesCrossing_zpsb3bd044e.jpg.html?sort=3&o=11

When I did the re-check of everything, (I did it several times because I couldn't believe how well it came out) I actually thought one of my lasers had quit working. I didn't turn them on till I had the bike perfectly leveled and straight, I didn't want to "prejudice my findings"....the lines OVERLAPPED and made it look like one laser had quit!!! This isn't my idea BTW, I made my own version of the set up Jake had in his video.

Also, go to Glide Pro's sight, Jake has some great video to show you how his system works. The reason I went with his, is unlike some kits, this merely upgrades the stock system and isn't an add-on to the swing arm or frame.
 
#10 ·
The new frames are much better than then before but still have some wobble when pushed.

I went with the Alloy Art frame stablizer got it off ebay for under $150 I liked it because it mounts on top and does not interfere with exhaust or ground clearance also lime that it mounts to the starter bolts and not the smaller transmission pan bolts.

It did take the high speed wobble out of my bike.

This is a link to thread I started on HD Forums about it
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/697074-alloy-art-frame-stablizer-for-new-frames.html
 
#11 · (Edited)
Well...I am glad I found this thread...I traded in my 2013 roadking in on a 2013 roadglide ultra about a month ago. I noticed from the start that it was real squirrely on the interstate. I thought mabye it was just me getting used to the bike...I have never had a bike with a fairing or tour-pak prior to this one and my roadking was not like this. When I took the bike in for its 1000 mile service I tried to explain to the service manager what it was doing. They said the adjusted the steering head and it was fine on the test ride...however the test ride was only about 3 miles or so and I doubt they got on the interstate with it and it is at that speed that I notice the problem. NOW I know how to explain it...rear steer! I notice that sometimes in a curve...right hand curve mostly that it feels like the rear of the bike is moving to the right..almost like the bike is wanting to twist.

My question is this...if I take it to the dealer to have them correct it will they be able to or am I going to have to spend more money to make a $24,000 bike rideable. I am really starting to wonder if I should have looked into a new goldwing....
 
#12 ·
Hey scooter...my bike has the same problem on the highway. What has helped is a true track and 12inch klockwerks. My 13 inch windvest acted like a sail and moved my bike all over the place. Now its only noticeable when behind a semi. More mods in the future should help more. I bought the rg because it's supposed to be the best handling bike harley makes (not mine from factory) maybe so after about 3000.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#15 ·
I ride about 60 K a year and have been know to push it a bit. Two up scraping the broads on the Dragon in May.
This stuff is a joke .
I bet they will sell you some bolts to stop your bags from falling off also.
 
#17 ·
no joke

I had both a 2008 Road King and a 2008 Road Glide. They would wallow in turns. I now have a 2012 Road Glide and I ride hard. The bike does wallow through turns and get rear end steer. I notice it in high speed sweepers. Keeping down a gear and on the throttle helps. I may try some type of stabilizer, but this will be after new shocks, as I feel the new frame beats me. I hope shocks may improve that wallow as well. Honestly sometimes I think I would rather have my old frame back.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Kinda odd, I dont know what the variables are, I have a 13 ultra, I've taken sweepers at 90, but no issues. Or... maybe I have problems and I just dont know it?
I think it's hit or miss too. My 2010 RG was on rails from the showroom but my 2013 wallows almost as much as my 2007 Road King did stock. A bit better just because the frame is stiffer but suspension and/or alignment seems to be off. Maybe just swing-arm a little too loose. Not bad enough to be frightened but very noticeable when I'm playing around.
 
#22 ·
Since changing out to the 21"/18" combo and adding 16" bars, I've notice above 75mph does get somewhat squirmish going down the highway. It also feels like the rear end slides when going around corners. I never rode with this setup before, so I just thought this is just the way it is. Now this thread has me thinking I do need to look into what is causing this feeling. Thanks for the insight.
 
#24 ·
My RGU was evil on any road and especially on curves. After checking the alignment with the lasers and not getting repeatable results, I surmised that the problem lies with the rubber mounting system and lack of control links like those used in the past. I selected the Alloy Art because it was the least expensive and also had the longest link. Longer should cause less change in location. Like I said, the weird rear steering effects went away at all speeds, types of pavement and curves.
 
#26 ·
My 09 wallows above 80 in the sweepers. It was also crooked going down the road. Harley shop never heard of such a thing with the new frames. Imagine that.
I went to the glidepro site and bought all the laser stuff. I couldnt believe how far off it was. I had to buy a slotted front motor mount to get the front of the motor over in alignment with the rear tire. I can let my hands off the bars at any speed and go straight down the highway. It tracks real good in the corners now.
I still have a good wobble above 80 in the sweepers. I try to keep it just under that. I will be adding a stabilizer bar.
For those of you with no wobbles.......good deal. For those of you with wobbles....good luck
 
#27 ·
Where did you buy you slotted motor mount ?
 
#31 ·
My bike is in pieces right now, (getting paint), so I really can't add much. I went with JRI shocks and the bike is better than before in corners, but I still want to try a stabilizer. One thing you may want to try with your shocks is to make sure they are straight. ...... when I had the JRI shocks installed Howard took a level and put it from the swingarm to the frame to make sure the shocks would be installed straight, I was amazed to see one side was over
1/4" (closer to 1/2") off. He used shims (thick washers), to balance it out. According to him this insures the shocks are going straight up and down and not sideways at all.
Sent from my SPH-L710
 
#32 ·
I just realized I'm not subscribed to this thread and may have said the same thing a couple of times..... :eek: to try and be more specific on how Howard aligned the shocks, get a level, go to the points where you are going to install the rear shock, put the level right where the shocks are going to be and it should be level horizontally, if no keep adding washers to the top mount until it is, then remember how many you added and install the shock. I wish I knew how to use the PC to draw a diagram to make it easier. Also subscribing to the thread this time. :eek:
 
#33 ·
Bless it be the 03, unlike many of this boxed bikes, just add a janitor with a wrench and it's ready to roll and sell to the highest bidder, then we can complain about our choices, not unlike kids after Xmas after the drunk ol man put the toys together not being able to tell from the (#^$# drawing... sorry bout that just rant

Again, if right you shouldn't need a crutch for straight line or twisties, nor have to ride with fear
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the info. It makes sense.
When I align my front and rear tires. I take the seat off and level the bike across the frame.
Then I guess you could check the shocks for straight up and down.
 
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