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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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I got the speakers and amp installed finally. I found some 9 gauge wire in some stuff my son and I used on his car so I used that for power. I read the manual for the PBR300X2 and followed their instructions for connecting the speaker wires to the amp instead of using LOCs. I mistakenly bought the MM651UM speakers so I relocated the tweeter to to the small side of the factory speaker adapter. I also had to disassemble and remove some of the back of the speaker housing so that it would not rub on the fairing. I really like the fact that it looks bone stock too.

All in all, it performs so much better than stock. I am pleased with the outcome and now I can turn it up loud enough to hear it over my Drago clearly.

Thanks for all the assistance guys!



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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 07:25 PM
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yeah, that's a pile of power for such a little amp.

I wouldn't mind seeing your relocation mod.

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post #13 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 10:17 AM
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So h-donut, I just ordered the line converter, do I still need to meter the speaker wires to see if they have the right positive and neg from the factory? Getting ready to install your bracket and my pbr300X2 amp.


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post #14 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix9222 View Post
So h-donut, I just ordered the line converter, do I still need to meter the speaker wires to see if they have the right positive and neg from the factory? Getting ready to install your bracket and my pbr300X2 amp.
I'd get a meter in there, if it's a bare wire anyways.

please let us know what you find


the PBR300x2 did state some software improvements in March 2012

an earlier post in elf amp days stated better to have the line converter fail than an amp or factory radio.

once the line converter is on there, I'd check the outputs, yes

not sure about the remote wire, though, if you need one, I think you do.

the turn on voltage dial can be swept from 4-6v

sometimes it doesn't work, as with my DSX-310, is supposed to have 4v output RCA's, so switiching from the MS60 (2v) to the 310, I should have had to cut or remove the remote wire, but I still needed it.

no I didn't measure the RCA outputs, but I might next time if I remember.

with the line converter I would, since it has voltage attenuator, you can
also go back and tweak by ear, like a biassing a preamp, just don't get too fancy. your best setting will be shades away from 4.5v if I'm understanding
the concept correctly.

basically with that amp, it's that amps choice whether it needs the remote wire, up to a point.

sounds like you have all your ducks in a row, hope everything goes smoothly for you.

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post #15 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h-donut View Post

I wouldn't mind seeing your relocation mod.
I didn't take any pics, but I used a 1.75" hole saw and centered it on the small side of the speaker mount, cutting really slow and deliberate. I used a cutter that had a really short drill on it. It wouldn't take much for someone not paying attention to destroy the speaker mount.

I wrapped the tweeter with two sided tape and installed it in the tweeter cup. I then screwed the tweeter cup over the hole I cut. I think it's kind of "jerry rigged", but it works like a champ.



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post #16 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 10:04 AM
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Thought I would post up a picture of the KnuKonceptz power and speaker wiring I bought on eBay. The shocker to me is how BIG this stuff is so I put a ruler in the pic for some perspective.

Got the same power distribution block h-donut used ($9). Now I just need to figure out how much surgery is required to get the ring terminals to fit. Nice thing about the ring terminals ($5) is they use a set screw to hold the 4 gauge power cable ($3/ft) so you don't need an expensive crimp tool.

The 12 gauge twisted pair speaker cable ($.75/ft) is also a much bigger diameter cable than I expected but the stuff is beautiful. If I have sound problems after this install, I don't think it will be for under-engineering the cable specs.

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post #17 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 10:38 AM
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for solder joints I was doing two flat V's, about 3/16", with heat shrink, then a little extra vinyl tape, for stuff that poked through, or looked liked it wanted to, tryed to stagger them.

yeah, had to trim top of the battery box quite a bit.

to get the oversized cable to fit, expecially at the amp side, used scissors, exposed wire, did a flower, and trimmed sides a strand or two until it was just the right size

I had zero extra power or ground cable when I was done, or I'd take a picture.

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post #18 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 10:40 AM
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btw, I really like that speaker wire

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post #19 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 01:19 PM
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dumb question... but why the power dist box? you running more than 1 amp?

Also what size fuses are you guys running?

I Only plan on running 1 amp so I was looking at this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Inline-Water...item588d300bb1

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post #20 of 22 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmize View Post
dumb question... but why the power dist box? you running more than 1 amp?
Yep, I'm running two amps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dmize View Post
Also what size fuses are you guys running?
I ordered 30 amp fuses but I have no idea what I'm doing. I just watch h-donut and do what he does

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