21 vs the 23 inch wheel - Page 4 - Road Glide Forums
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post #31 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabes View Post
That all depends man, with what brand you want etc. I'm just going to throw some rough prices out there.

9 Degree Triple kit $800 ish
bolck kit $200 ish
if you want to go with longer tubes 23" tubes $200 ish
then bushings, seals fluid etc. $100 ish
26" wheel will be roughly $2,000
front rotors if you have ABS and staying with dual or going to single? 13" matching rotor $280 ish then 13" caliper $500ish. I know some wheel company has packages for ABS bikes if you want to keep the step up the same, I don't know the price on there, should be on their websites.
Front fender for 26" $ 500 ish
Then paint ?
spacers

Labor price if you don't do it yourself.


So it's up there in price. If you are one of the guys that have to have matching wheels (I'm one), then the rear wheel $1300 ish,
Matching pulley $450 ish

I'm just throwing prices out there, but will put you in the ball park.
That's about right...I have about 5K on just wheels, tires rotors (3) pulley and ABS bearings etc

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post #32 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:11 PM
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Plan on 7 to 10... And don't chump on the cost of the neck cutting/trees.. Your life ain't worth it.. Covington may not be the cheapest but I can run 90 with no wobble

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post #33 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 11:01 AM
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I know its not a Road Glide, but you get the idea. This was built by a good friend of mine who also has a local bike shop and does a good bit of custom work. He calls it the CrowTown Dirty Bagger. Crowtown because we once and still occasionally have a crow problem and the nickname has stuck LOL

The pictures do the bike NO justice. The paint is amazing with the gloss and denim.


Crowtown Dirty Bagger by Nozzleman216, on Flickr
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post #34 of 108 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Nozzleman 216 View Post
I know its not a Road Glide, but you get the idea. This was built by a good friend of mine who also has a local bike shop and does a good bit of custom work. He calls it the CrowTown Dirty Bagger. Crowtown because we once and still occasionally have a crow problem and the nickname has stuck LOL

The pictures do the bike NO justice. The paint is amazing with the gloss and denim.


Crowtown Dirty Bagger by Nozzleman216, on Flickr
looks like the frame was extended at the neck. don't like the gap between the batwing and tank. Other than those two things, bike looks awesome.

2012 Big Blue Pearl FLTRX
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post #35 of 108 (permalink) Old 10-01-2011, 12:02 PM
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they all look amazing...

attended a party at yaffe's in 2006, a brief conversation with him, began my separation from all things softail and seeing the much larger canvas called bagger.

of course, coming up with disposable income year after year after year can be tricky.

my two favorites front ends on the board are traceyb and hawgwild.

of course there are also about another 2 dozen great custom bikes around here also. see BOTM club.

for my application, I especially like hawg wilds setup.

this one mod alone, really makes you question even getting a CVO

that and now they're saying you need a 09-11 96 block to accept off the shelf upgrades beyond 103 ( up to 131 )

2010 FLTRX- r o a d g l i d e
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post #36 of 108 (permalink) Old 10-03-2011, 10:33 PM
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It sounds like you might be making up your mind already, but I like all of the diff input. My "two bits" is this: Don't skimp. You can bolt a 21, 23, and yes- even a 26 on the bike without cutting. There is no excuse for that anymore. Several manufacturers have "kits" that can make your wheel safely work for your application. Some cut the neck and raise it, others just split the rake with neck and trees, some extend backbone. It can all work if you use a trail calculator to return the specs to stock, or your own personal preference. My bike has been cut and is insured like a stock one. Like some of the others have said, my 26 rides like a sportbike as far as I am concerned. Suspension travel might be another story! Air is nice in the front, but I don't like the idea of constantly tweaking something going down the road. I know me, and I would have it fully dumped 90% of the time, so why spend the $. Know what you want, and then engineer it from that. Big wheels are cool, and it can be argued that they are somewhat practice. I have a friend with 12,xxx on his 26. I'm sure he has hit a hole or two! My bike is a RK with stock length tubes, 18 degrees of rake added, and Progressive mono suspension. It works!
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post #37 of 108 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 02:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Graybone32 View Post
so i have been looking at 21" wheels and got to thinking (i know that might be a prob) if i buy a 21" and lower it 2" why couldnt i put a 23" without rakeing it out and not lowering it i dont have a engine gaurd so that wouldnt be in the way so input would be great thanx
I just put a 21 inch Covington Wheel on the front and 18 inch Covington on the back. They made an after market bracket to insure he stock fender would work without issue. They guys at Covington said I would need to start making customizations to the bike if I wanted to go larger. BTW it the 21 looks great and handles like a dream. Check out the pics in my profile and if you have questions let me know.

2012 RG Custom CVO "Skunk" Construction Complete
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post #38 of 108 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 09:37 AM
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Does anyone have a link to a good rake / trail calculator for tire changes?


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2007 Nightster Silver / Black Denim... SOLD
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post #39 of 108 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen3055 View Post
It sounds like you might be making up your mind already, but I like all of the diff input. My "two bits" is this: Don't skimp. You can bolt a 21, 23, and yes- even a 26 on the bike without cutting. There is no excuse for that anymore. Several manufacturers have "kits" that can make your wheel safely work for your application. Some cut the neck and raise it, others just split the rake with neck and trees, some extend backbone. It can all work if you use a trail calculator to return the specs to stock, or your own personal preference. My bike has been cut and is insured like a stock one. Like some of the others have said, my 26 rides like a sportbike as far as I am concerned. Suspension travel might be another story! Air is nice in the front, but I don't like the idea of constantly tweaking something going down the road. I know me, and I would have it fully dumped 90% of the time, so why spend the $. Know what you want, and then engineer it from that. Big wheels are cool, and it can be argued that they are somewhat practice. I have a friend with 12,xxx on his 26. I'm sure he has hit a hole or two! My bike is a RK with stock length tubes, 18 degrees of rake added, and Progressive mono suspension. It works!
23" looks like crap stock, IMHO too much of a gap (top of the fender and bottom of the triple tree), unless you install the lowering kit that limits your travel to 1.75" I agree with you, raked and stretched is the way to go, to get close to stock trail numbers, 5 and 6". I was first going to go with mono tubes in the front but was told that I shouldn't waste my money since my bike is raked and stretched. At that angle, the compression of the front end isn't like it would be with a stock front end. But again, I was planning on doing the same, but was told by my builder to save the money. just my 2 cents
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post #40 of 108 (permalink) Old 10-04-2011, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cmathias View Post
I just put a 21 inch Covington Wheel on the front and 18 inch Covington on the back. They made an after market bracket to insure he stock fender would work without issue. They guys at Covington said I would need to start making customizations to the bike if I wanted to go larger. BTW it the 21 looks great and handles like a dream. Check out the pics in my profile and if you have questions let me know.
only thing you would have to mod is the front fender. It would leave a big gap if you didn't lower the front or raked it.
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