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How to service your Road Glide -- Photos

175K views 138 replies 82 participants last post by  Mach2 
#1 · (Edited)
This service was done on a 2010 Road Glide Custom.

HOW TO SERVICE YOUR ROAD GLIDE

BELOW ARE STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO SERVICE YOUR ROAD GLIDE. PLEASE BE SURE TO READ MY DISCLAIMER AT THE END OF THIS THREAD.

TOOLS:
  • Rachet Wrench
  • Extensions for Rachet Wrench
  • Oil Filter Wrench - I used Part No. 94863-10
  • 5/8" Socket (Needed for the oil plugs or you can use a 1/4" allen wrench but you run less risk with the socket)
  • 11/16" Socket
  • 1/4" Allen Wrench
  • 3/8" Allen Wrench (Needed for Transmission plug)
  • 5/16" Allen Wrench
  • 7/32" Allen Wrench (Needed for when adjusting the clutch pack)
  • 11/16" Deep Offset Wrench (Needed for when adjusting the clutch pack)
  • 1/2" Open Wrench (For clutch cable adjustment)
  • 9/16" Open Wrench (For clutch cable adjustment)
  • T27 Torx Wrench
  • Oil Pan - I used the Low Profile Oil Drain Pan - Part No. 63795-10
  • Oil Funnel
  • Axle Nut Torque Adapter Tool‎ - HD-47925
  • Belt Tester Tension Tool - 40006-85
  • Snap Ring (Circlip) Pliers, very small (thin tips) ones
  • Shop Rags

RECOMMENDED BUT NOT NECESSARY:
  • Bike Jack, Center Stand, or 2x4 Block of Wood
  • Rubber Nitrile Disposable Gloves
  • Oil Filter Catcher Drain Funnel - Part No. 63794-10
  • Primary Oil Funnel - Part No. 63797-10
  • A big piece of cardboard to prevent oil drips on driveway
  • Break cleaner spray- Highly recommended - to clean the oil mess in the bike, and trust me, there will be a mess to clean...
  • Small block of wood-highly recommended if you don't use a jack.
  • Inch/Lbs Torque Wrench for Primary Cover bolts
  • Ft/Lbs Torque Wrench for Oil Plugs
  • Stubby (short) 1/2" and 9/16" open wrench for the clutch cable (space between cable and front fender is small so a short set of these would be great


REQUIRED FLUIDS, PARTS, SUPPLIES, AND ACCESSORIES:
  • 4 QT Motor Oil (most bikes take 3-3 1/2 qts) - I used Syn3 in all three holes... In mine it took 3 1/2 qts for the engine oil fill. I just got two cases of Syn3 Oil - Part No. 99824-03.00QT
  • If you are not using Syn3 in all three holes, then you will need 3qts - Formula+ Transmission and Primary Chaincase Lubricant - Part No. 99851-051 QT
--- You will use 1 1/2 qt in the transmission
--- 38 Oz in the Primary. DO NOT OVERFILL! Measure the 38oz for the primary, don't be lazy on that step
  • Harley Davidson Oil Filter - In my case Part No. 63798-99A
  • 2 Spark Plugs - In my case Part No. 32362-04 (6R12) - Proper gap measurement is 0.038-0.043 in. and check them, don't assume they come with the gap set from HD
  • Clutch Cable Lubricant - Part No. 94968-09
  • Grease and Grease Gun for the Head Bearing. Good quality Marine Trailer Bearing Grease would do. Harley suggests you use Part No. 99857-97
  • Workshop manual asks that you put a little bit of silver anti-seize to the treads of the spark plugs... so have some (this is where the gloves come handy as that grease has a way to get everywhere! :cussing )
  • Teflon thread sealant- for the oil plugs threads
  • Gasket kit 17369-06 will come with your derby cover o-ring and all (3) drain plug o-rings


Time to get started.
If you don't have a motorcycle jack use a small block of wood (a 2x4 will do), place it under your kickstand so your bike will stand upright. I work on the ground.

1. Remove the oil cap and the transmission cap on the right side of the bike. You will need to use a 3/8" Allan wrench to remove the transmission cap.

Photo of oil and transmission caps

2. Locate the oil drain plug, primary plug and the transmission fluid plugs under your bike (see photo). Using a 5/8" socket, loosen them so you can turn it with your fingers. Do not remove them yet.
Note: On the newer bikes the frame covers the transmission plug. There is a hole in the bottom of the frame to allow access (see Photo)
Note: If working on the ground, you may not be able to drain all 3 plugs at the same time. If you can't, drain the oil and transmission first and then do the primary.

The oil plug can be seen from the right side of your bike. It points towards the front tire and it pretty much dead center.

Oil Plug photo #2.




Transmission plug (located inside the undercarriage of the frame on some bikes). It can be seen from the right side of your bike.


Transmission plug photo#2


Continued below....
 
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#71 ·
Subbed to this awesome write-up. Thank you for your time to post this.
 
#73 ·
That is teflon... my mistake since I saw the plugs from the factory had something similar... and I could swear I had seen it documented in the manual...

Anyway, bottom line is, do not put anything on them. That is what the o-ring is for.

I just went over the workshop manual and sure enough, no mention of the need to use teflon or anything on the plug... just to make sure that the o-ring is in good condition or replace it.

Torque 14-21 ft-lb.
 
#75 ·
Primary cover bolts

I had my first service done at a HD dealer.The mechanic semi-stripped the torx head on one of the bolts.I had to use a impact driver to get it out.I hate these friggin torx bolts,I have been a mechanic 36 years and have never seen such a piece of crap for a fastener.Do yourselves a favor and replace them with stainless steel allen head bolts.
 
#77 ·
I agree, very valuable contribution from BDMastiff... I have shared the link to this thread in other forums as well... very useful information for anyone trying to maintain their iron horse.
 
#80 · (Edited)
Thanks for the good info on servicing it helps save the dollars. One Question about the engine oil changes; is it necessary to do a pump through for the engine oil? By this I mean leave the oil filter off and start the bike (after filling with 3 qts) to empty out the old oil trapped in the lines between the oil cooler and filter?
 
#84 ·
I'm at about 23k mi., about time to change my plugs, possibly the wires

weather just changed around here, noticed my first case of solo thump with a cold engine, I think the book says 20k mi., definitely need to get some fuel stabilizer in the mix at a minimum.

also referring to page 1-11 of the SM, about time to have the in tank filter replaced, and steering head checked again.
 
#86 ·
more oil info

I've been doing a lot of reading about the Brad Penn oil...really good stuff, but if you still have factory headers on the bike (stupid CA emission) that means you would have a cat conv still on the bike. The high level of zinc could cause problems (accourding to the website) anybody know what the issues might be or if I need to dump and refill ???

http://www.penngrade1.com/Products/High-Performance/SAE-20W50.aspx
 
#89 ·
This is my first time reading this thread, BD, do you write tech manuals for a living, if not, I think you'd be a lot better at it than some who do, good job.
 
#92 ·
1000 Mile Service Question

Thanks for the write up, pictures and step by step tutorial. If it wasn’t for that I would have had second thoughts about doing it myself.
I started the 1000 mile service today and it's my first time, so my concern is that I went and bought SYN3 for the motor and transmission and bought the Formula+ Lubricant for the Primary. Should I have done the Formula+ in the transmission also?
I haven't put the derby cover back on yet, because I was short 6oz of the Formula+ and I will be getting that later on today. Will I be okay or should I just buy two more quarts of SYN3, drain the Primary again and just go with the SYN3 in all three holes?
I also bought a new set of bolts for the Derby cover with the Allen vs. Torx. Had a hard time with two of the Torx bolts removing the cover.
 
#94 ·
I started the 1000 mile service today and it's my first time, so my concern is that I went and bought SYN3 for the motor and transmission and bought the Formula+ Lubricant for the Primary. Should I have done the Formula+ in the transmission also?
I haven't put the derby cover back on yet, because I was short 6oz of the Formula+ and I will be getting that later on today. Will I be okay or should I just buy two more quarts of SYN3, drain the Primary again and just go with the SYN3 in all three holes?
I also bought a new set of bolts for the Derby cover with the Allen vs. Torx. Had a hard time with two of the Torx bolts removing the cover.
You should be ok using S3 in the transmission. I never used synthetic oil until I bought my CVO so I'm not an expert on it.
 
#98 ·
wow! Thanks for the info. Do you recommend synthetic oil at the 1st 1000 mile service???
I use it in my bike...since new... For all three holes... I use HD Syn3.
 
#99 ·
Great write up. Has already saved me major buckage. Thanks BDMastiff!

Now, does anyone have pictures of adjusting the steering head bearing as part of the service? :-D Had the dealer do it but they wimped out and didn't tighten it enough and its still got a "clunk" when I brake and severe shudder when braking from 45+ MPH with front brake.

BG
 
#105 ·
I was sharing the tools in my HD toolbox over at the HD forums (Sportster secion)... thought it would be good to share it here... in the box is everything that I have needed to service the bikes so far.

Here you go... missing from the photo and the box is the clear security glasses with led light, and the headband LED lights... forgot to put them back. Also the torque wrenches I keep in their case and in the larger toolbox in the garage as they take a lot of space... and of course the box of nitrile gloves, hand cleaner, rags, oil pan, floor pads, stool, and lift...

I also noticed that I am missing the derby funnel and the hose for the oil filter catch tray...humm, need to see where the heck I left those..



These are the same safety glasses that I have and the LED lights






Here we go...







 
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