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  #11  
Old 11-01-2012, 05:20 PM
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I've seen that... seems like a huge overkill solution and way too freakin expensive. You'd have to cut the old lever off, or remove the primary anyway... If I had stripped splines in the arm, I'd put another OEM on and use a .02 cent washer.. I've done the washer thing on 3 seperate bikes when the lever started to loosen up. Never had to touch em again.

The thing is, without the washer, the head is galling steel against aluminum when you tighten it up. Which causes the bolt to be "tight", but not as tight as it should be. You get sufficient pinch when using a washer at far less torque.
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  #12  
Old 11-01-2012, 05:52 PM
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Washer it will be then! Thanks! No time to mess with it tonight.....I've been recruited with my truck to help a friend move into a new house. Looks like she'll sit in the garage tomorrow until I get home from work to fix it. I'm worried if mired much more it will strip out. Caging it to work it is then.
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  #13  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:15 PM
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This seems like a good idea to do as a preventive maintenance thing. No need to wait for it to loosen up.... let us know if the washer does the trick.
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  #14  
Old 11-02-2012, 01:49 PM
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Question for all that have had that back spline strip. Have been wondering if using the heel shifter versus only the toe shifter? With the heel shifter I know it's easier to use more force down shifting than it is using only the toe. Just wondering if this could be causing the problem?
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  #15  
Old 11-02-2012, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by staush View Post
Question for all that have had that back spline strip. Have been wondering if using the heel shifter versus only the toe shifter? With the heel shifter I know it's easier to use more force down shifting than it is using only the toe. Just wondering if this could be causing the problem?
I think it contributes to the problem,(slamming on the heel shifter) but if it was ever loose to begin with, that will help wear the splines too.
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  #16  
Old 11-02-2012, 03:49 PM
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I had this issue with my old bike. I never used the heel shifter. I couldn't figure out how it wasnt tight as the allen bolt was tight when I checked. I think its worth it to just add a washer for a few cents.
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  #17  
Old 11-02-2012, 04:53 PM
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Just added a lock washer and retightened. Test proved mostly successful. About 90-95% of the rattle is gone now. I think if I replace the shift rod with heim joints that will finish the deal. I might be able to get another 1/8 of a turn on the bolt, but am scared of breaking the head off. Then I'd need to remove the entire primary to get the broken bolt out. Don't want to deal with that. We'll see how this holds up.

I do use the heel shifter and love it.... Don't ever think I'll stop using it. The RG was my first heel shift. Hated it at first, but now can't live without it.
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  #18  
Old 11-02-2012, 05:43 PM
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Glad it helped. It's amazing how much more squeeze you can put on the bolt when it has a steel/steel contact patch. You probably could tighten the head off of the bolt, but not as likely if you're just using a typical Allen 'L' wrench without a cheater bar. :-)

Is the front lever tight too? I noticed on the newer bike they used second pinch clamp at the front of the primary.

Always carry around some tie wraps for when the linkage ball fails, or replace with heim joints. Fairly common to lose the rear one... but a quick field repair with two tie wraps, one around the lever, the other around the joint, looped together. One in a figure 8 also works...
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  #19  
Old 11-03-2012, 06:56 PM
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They make lock washers that are specifically for socket cap screws. They're called "high collar" lockwashers. These should be used if you have a choice. All socket products are alloy steel and heat treated, and are very strong. You should always use fastener products that are of similar strength. If you use a common flat or lock washer it's much less strong and it'll likely 'cup' or break at some future point.

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  #20  
Old 11-03-2012, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Northwoods_Maine View Post
They make lock washers that are specifically for socket cap screws. They're called "high collar" lockwashers. These should be used if you have a choice. All socket products are alloy steel and heat treated, and are very strong. You should always use fastener products that are of similar strength. If you use a common flat or lock washer it's much less strong and it'll likely 'cup' or break at some future point.

Fastener sales have fed my family for the last 35+ years.
I know of the lockwashers you speak. However in this case the lockwasher is performing the duty of a small OD washer. If one can find a small OD washer, that's perfect. They are hard to find now that everything comes from china... The lockwasher function is unnecessary as the lever itself is providing tension, and the washer surface is providing a solid surface that won't gall. You really don't have to tighten this bolt up much to get full effect, but without the washer you typically can't.
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