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  #1  
Old 10-28-2012, 08:43 PM
matty3000 matty3000 is offline
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Default Internal wiring question

I know this subject has been beat to death but here goes... So I just ordered 10" Monkey Bars for my 2004. I also ordered the one piece clamp and poly bushings. I plan on wiring the bars myself and after reading countless posts about the job, I am left with one question. Do I remove the pins from the blocks or do I just cut the wires, splice, and heat shrink?

Donk's run down makes it seem easy to separate the pins but it seems like there is a pretty good chance of breaking a pin and splicing would be pretty much foolproof. Has anyone done it both ways that can tell me which way makes more sense? Keep in mind mine is an 04 so I don't have the tbw to deal with.
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2004 Impact Blue V&H Dresser Duals V&H Slash Monster Ovals PCIII 10" Yaffe Monkey Bars Progressive 440 11" To do: 95" conversion, cams, front wheel, fork lowers
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  #2  
Old 10-29-2012, 06:12 AM
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send me ur email address , in a pm, or just click on me yahoo thing and email me.
Got sumn for ya!!!
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Old 10-29-2012, 09:17 AM
tdkkart tdkkart is offline
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Definitely pull the pins out of the connectors, once you figure out which way to hold your tongue it's not bad at all, and beats the heck out of cutting and splicing all the wires.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:59 PM
LARGECARTRANSPORT LARGECARTRANSPORT is offline
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Donk's how to is freakin amazin'. When you go to pull the wrapped wires thru the bars...cover them in baby powder. Easiest method I have found yet.
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Old 10-30-2012, 04:45 PM
matty3000 matty3000 is offline
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Thanks everyone. I appreciate the instructions Neano, that helps. Now if the slow boat from China would hurry up and get here with my bars...
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:26 PM
matty3000 matty3000 is offline
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Alright guys, I have been humbled by the monkey bars. I really thought I was gonna come back at you with how easy it was and how everyone made a big deal out of nothing. It sucks fishing wires through those bars. My dad is an electrician and I have snaked wires through some of the worst places imaginable working with him but these bars suck.
First I vacuumed a fish string through. That was easy. I used that to pull an electrical snake through and hooked that to the end of a piece of heat shrink doubled up. That ripped. So then I did the same thing except pulled through a piece of clothes line and heat shrinked that to the bundle. That worked a little better until it finally let go and I had to get the wires back out of the bars.
So this is my first attempt, trying to pull the factory insulation through. My next attempt is going to be removing the factory insulation and heatshrinking the whole bundle. I couldn't do that tonight because home depot didn't have long enough lengths of tubing.
So the first try I used baby powder for lube but with the clothes line I thought I needed to get er wet so I used dish soap. I do think I got a set of bars that someone already made an attempt at because there was already some kinda lube in there when I made the first pull. That would confirm that there are harder bars than others to pull through.
I'll let you know how it goes...
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2004 Impact Blue V&H Dresser Duals V&H Slash Monster Ovals PCIII 10" Yaffe Monkey Bars Progressive 440 11" To do: 95" conversion, cams, front wheel, fork lowers
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Old 11-05-2012, 09:47 PM
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Stagger the wires, take the sleeve off, and soap them.. I've done countless sets or BR and monkey bars and never had an issue.. I use a piece of chain and masking tape the wires to it. Nothing to it


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Old 11-06-2012, 08:18 PM
matty3000 matty3000 is offline
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Finally finished. I broke a pin on the first run so that sucks. The second one went much easier. I found that using a pair of channel locks to push while pulling with the other hand worked well. Having a 6 inch electrical snake to free the wire up through the holes in the bottom was helpful too.
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Old 11-07-2012, 08:25 PM
matty3000 matty3000 is offline
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So the saga continues... I finally got my bars wired. I was able to remove my left grip pretty easily by prying up on the inside of the grip with a small screwdriver and spraying carb cleaner in there. So I'm getting ready to mount the bars and I'm going to change my bushings. Now I'm confused. The drag specialties bushings I got don't seem any stiffer than the stock ones and they don't have the metal sleeve inside and appearantly you aren't supposed to use the metal caps. How is this an improvement? Also one side of my riser bolt had a giant flat washer and the other didn't. I know the guy I bought my bike from didn't mess with the risers so why would it come like that from the factory?
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