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  #1  
Old 11-14-2012, 06:42 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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Default Auxillary Lighting

I mounted auxiallary lights on my lower forks at the brake caliper for $hundreds less than anything I've seen on here.

I first determined where I wanted to mount an auxiallary light and decided upon the lower front caliper mount. With LEDs, there is no need to worry about vibrations or shaking because there is no filament to break with stressful wear. I next picked my tools: a #10 metric star socket to remove the bolt, a hack saw, and two small files.
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn

Last edited by bacchus9876; 11-14-2012 at 07:37 PM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:49 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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I next picked the bracket stock: Lowe's aluminum strap 1" x 1/8" for a few bucks. Next, I used a piece of typing paper held up to the area where I decided to put the brackets, and I traced it out. This is very simple. I saw the guys on American Choppers do this, and it works just fine for everyday folks too.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0479.jpg (96.1 KB, 92 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0478.jpg (88.4 KB, 84 views)
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn

Last edited by bacchus9876; 11-14-2012 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:55 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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I then transferred the paper cut-out to the aluminum stock and used a hack saw to rough cut the outline. Using two small files that are in my toolbox (but originally purchased from Harbor Freight for less than $5), I then fine-shaped the bracket. I'm not a welder or a metal guy, but aluminum is such a soft metal that anyone can shape whatever they want very easily. I made these brackets in less than 15 minutes each. Don't be daunted by their shape -- this is easy stuff that even a lawyer with no palm calluses can do. I then primed each bracket with two coats of $0.99 primer purchased from Wal Mart.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0474.jpg (92.0 KB, 87 views)
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:03 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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Of course, I drilled the bracket with the appropriate holes: (a) for the caliper bolt, I used a 3/8" bit; (b) For the hole where the light actually mounted, I tapped it to the appropriate size. Let me repeat: when you get your light, you will have to tap that hole to the size of the bolt on your light because you will put a nut on the other side of it to hold the light stationary. If you don't have a tap kit, then you can get one for less than $30 at O'Reilly's. If you're going to work on bikes, you have to have a tap kit. I have both metric and english tap kits. Again, I'm just a lawyer, so anyone can do this. Tapping a hole is mucho easy stuff and anyone can do it. I used $0.99 flat black paint from Wal Mart to paint over the primer.
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File Type: jpg IMG_0481.jpg (91.6 KB, 104 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0485.jpg (93.4 KB, 113 views)
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn

Last edited by bacchus9876; 11-14-2012 at 07:48 PM.
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2012, 07:11 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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This is the light I purchased off ebay for $43: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230868640890...84.m1423.l2649

It's about 1" wide and 2" long and black, so it's unnoticable unless turned on.

I wired it into the auxillary light switch. This is great because the lights turn off when the bike does, but you can still control whether they are on or off when it's running. The wiring is very easy too: remove the tank and in the wiring harness beneath it, find the orange wire and black wire. Any all-black wire is a ground, but there are several orange wires, so you have to use a wire tester to find the correct one. Turn on your ignition -- to accessory will do, which is turn your ignition all the way to the right. When an orange wire lights up your tester, turn off your accessory switch. When your tester also turns off, you've found the correct orange wire. Now just run your wires from your lights along your brake lines (zip tying them on as you go) and up through your triple tree to solder to the correct wire. To protect the wires from road hazards, I covered mine with black heat shrink.
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn

Last edited by bacchus9876; 11-14-2012 at 08:43 PM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:14 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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Like the Kuryakyns, these lights don't put out a lot of usable light. They don't light up the road, but they are certainly bright and they increase my visual profile. As a safety measure, this is probably the best I've done. It took me less than two hours, , not counting the drying time for primer and paint, and my safety factor has increased exponentially. Hope this write up helps. Feel free to pm any questions, or put them on here so everyone can benefit from the responses.

Total spent not counting tools: $42.95 plus shipping, as I already had aluminum strap stock, soldering stuff and heat shrink.
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn

Last edited by bacchus9876; 11-14-2012 at 08:01 PM.
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Old 11-14-2012, 07:17 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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This is a pic of my dim lights combined with the new auxillary lights.
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2012 RG Custom, Stage 1, 4" Rinehardt pipes, 140db air horn
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:05 PM
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harvesthunt harvesthunt is offline
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Excellent DIY write up. Thanks for sharing. And they look great. I love making my bike more visible too
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:20 PM
bacchus9876 bacchus9876 is offline
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This is the light I purchased from Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/230868640890...84.m1423.l2649
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:49 PM
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Good write up, nice project, thanks for sharing.
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