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  #11  
Old 11-20-2012, 12:58 PM
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Xaran Xaran is offline
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Lowering the FLTRX will effect the ride so IMO its important to decide what is most important. The Custom is already 1" lower in the rear over the Ultra and if you are an aggressive rider you will scrape the floor boards and other parts frequently on either bike , the Custom more often. (I do daily on the canyons around my home or even in a parking lot situation. If you have not scraped you just have not pushed the bike to that point yet) The good thing is floor boards are made to fold and are cheap to replace.

So if you want to lower it either for looks or to fit a shorter rider an adjustable air ride system in the rear, shorter shocks or lowering blocks and a fork drop of 1-2.5" are available . You will get the look of a lowered bike and better footing for a shorter leg rider but with a compromise in ride and handling . Almost any time you lower the bike you loose suspension travel. Less travel = harsher ride and handling. The other option if it is just for rider comfort you can go with a lower profile seat (I use a C & C Fastback 1.5" lower and 1.5" back from stock) or for the most drop available look at Drop Seat Kit and get a true 3" rider drop with out compromising any suspension or handling
http://store.fatbaggers.com/20drseco.html
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2011 FLTRX, 103 Power Pak, Stage 1 with Power Vision and V & H Power Duals, SE A/C, Cee Bailey TRSSC 15", Progressive 940 rear,Mono Tubes Front, C & C Fastback Seat and some extras in black here and there

Previous HDs
2005 Annv FLSTFI, Stage II 95 kit, lowered 2" - SOLD
2004 Road King Custom - SOLD
2004 Sportster 1200 r, Stage 1 - SOLD
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  #12  
Old 11-21-2012, 03:30 PM
rc_chico rc_chico is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proud50 View Post
Has anyone found suspension replacement that lowers the Road Glide Custom? The notes I find are related to lowering the Road Glide Ultra, but not the RGC. I installed a new Corbin Seat which I love but is a bit wider and net difference is less heel on the road when stopped. I only have 30-31" inseam and need to lower the bike and would like to replace shocks at the same time. Any advise would be appreciated.
One of my buddies has a Burley lowering kit for sale. I took it off his RG. 10.5" shocks and shorter damper rods and springs for the forks. Shoot me a PM if interested.
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2012, 10:17 AM
Proud50 Proud50 is offline
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Thanks everyone for your feedback and advice. I will research 11.5" shocks. I was planning on mono tubes up front anyway so sounds like that will help as well.
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  #14  
Old 11-23-2012, 01:57 PM
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ironmark ironmark is offline
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I scrap my boards and my bike is stock height. I have a 30" inseam and sit flat footed on my bike so it must be your seat so change the seat first. My bike has Progressive monotubes in the front and 440 rear, this keeps the bike at stock height and it rides and handles great. Lowering your bike will affect the ride because you don't have as much suspension travel and you lose lean angle and clearance on speed bumps. IMO there is more advantages to keeping the bike at stock height then lowering.
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  #15  
Old 11-23-2012, 04:27 PM
SMSgt B SMSgt B is offline
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This might interest you:

FBI ORIGINAL 3" DROP SEAT KIT--Bolt-On Kit for 09-Up H-D Touring Models(Patent Pending)

The latest innovation from Fat Baggers is this impressive Bolt-On drop seat conversion kit for 09-Up touring models which drops the stock seat height by 3" without sacrificing clearance or suspension of your bike!

http://store.fatbaggers.com/drsekitop.html
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  #16  
Old 12-08-2012, 01:49 PM
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SIG556 SIG556 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoneBlack View Post
Personally speaking, I strongly disagree with this.......

I have monotubes up front set at full drop, which measures out to be just shy of -2.5" and current running air ride out back with a ride hight of -1" (ability to go -3.5" when parked)

With that said, I ride my bike, well, like a bike and pretty damn hard. Up here we ride the hill/mountains to coastal highway 1 to the switchbacks through the vineyards. I wouldn't do anything to my bike that would decrease its handling capablities.......bike looks good and rides/handles even better than stock. Which isn't to hard to do at all. The factory ride on these leaves a lot to be desired!

If you wanted to go lower with your bike, to improve handling and get flat footed. I'd do the following, if I were in your situation:

Front: monotubes, the lowing version will allow you to choose -1" or -2"
Rear: quality shock of your choice in 11.5"
Seat: if needed, have a the nose of the seat narrowed up (even with the frame)

Im 6'1", so I didnt lower my bike so much to be flat footed, i just wanted to lower my center of gravity and love the slammed look Not that I know a whole lot, but from my personal experiences that would be my $.02

Suspension wise, I believe TraceyB has very similar setup. Also without problems, except maybe people flocking to her bike in parking lots to stare
+1 I have a 30" inseam and a stone driveway. Running a 1" lowering block from Pingel, wicked easy to install now I can be flatfoot with knees bent for leverage. It does thrown the lean factor but I have 14" Yafee's too so I had to learn how to drive the bike all over anyway. Besides I bought it to chill, not to race so......

I am going to put a an adjustable air suspension on at some point but, for now I love the setup and now I can back it out of the garage without loosing my footing. This bike is too heavy to loose footing....
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2013, 10:42 AM
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SharkBit SharkBit is offline
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I have a sundowner seat on mine and a set of Road 6 Custom lowering blocks. They have options from 1-3 inches of drop. I have them sitting in the middle setting and they don't bottom out, the ride didnt get any worse and really love the way they sit. I am 5'9" with 30" inseam and I am able to sit flat footed on the scoot now. Well worth the money and 30 mins of your time.
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