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  #1  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:53 AM
creed creed is offline
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Default how to install vented lowers on 07 RG

Has anyone found a way to install vented lowers on a 09 and older without having to remove inter and outer fairing,wiring, install all new brackets just to get an inch for clearance,I don't mind a few bracket but not to that extent.Put on soft lowers and solved buffeting in a big way, thought of buying non vented and cut in vents,thought about hawg chopps but not sure about them,will run them year round,doing this for buffeting, I live in south Louisiana and we do not get much of a winter,any help would be appreciated
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2012, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creed View Post
Has anyone found a way to install vented lowers on a 09 and older without having to remove inter and outer fairing,wiring, install all new brackets just to get an inch for clearance,I don't mind a few bracket but not to that extent.Put on soft lowers and solved buffeting in a big way, thought of buying non vented and cut in vents,thought about hawg chopps but not sure about them,will run them year round,doing this for buffeting, I live in south Louisiana and we do not get much of a winter,any help would be appreciated
I'll following this because I'm thinking of doing same mod. What I have been told so far is if you buy Hell's foundry fairing braces, you can use vented fairing on earlier models. Yet some say the vented lowers will rub the fairing at the top. I would change the main mount, but that would misalign my paint stipe. Hope someone has the answer, don't want to make $600 mistake.
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Old 11-27-2012, 09:49 AM
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I did it on my 05. I lucked out and found some color matched lowers on E-bay. Keep in mind that I'm a cheap bastard, and wanted to keep cost to a minimum. You can try this at your own risk. But it worked great for me

I CAREFULLY cut off the tube covers to clear the fairing mounts with a really sharp coping saw. I used masking tape to prevent the paint from chipping back. The lowers just touched the bottom of the fairing. I put probably 10,000 miles on the bike this way before I traded it in for my 2011.

If you are concerned about paint rubbing, you could notch the glove boxes to clear the fairing. Or use a piece of rubber trim on the fairing to prevent paint damage. After 10,000 miles, I didn't notice any marks on my fairing.






You need to cut the tube covers back to clear the mounts.







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Last edited by PGR; 11-27-2012 at 10:14 AM. Reason: I'm so bright, my Mom calls me SUNNY
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:18 AM
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I put the vented fairing lowers on my 08 and to do it right you should replace the fairing mounting brackets with the 2010 fairing mounting brackets. You need to remove the outer and inner fairings but it only takes around 2 hours to change the main fairing mounting bracket that is on the frame. I did it by myself so if I had a helper it may have been done faster and easier but it was no big deal, the good news is that you don't have to remove the gauges that are mounted in the inner fairing or the instrument nacelle that has the speed/tach gauges, you do have to remove the radio and if you have a amplifier (I have one) that has to be removed as well . All the main wiring is plug specific so only the correct male plug will work with the correct female plug so you don't have to label them if you don't want too but the gauge plugs and speaker wire should be labeled because the plugs are typical. I got the brackets from PC Pain and they cost less then I expected so get a hold of PC for your best price on the brackets, also raising the upper fairing and the different angle helps direct the wind flow around the rider better IMO and the lowers will reduce buffeting by 90% IMO. It is well worth taking the time to do it right for function and looks.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:30 AM
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Thanks PGR, that is the exact information I was looking for. Ironmark, I know the bracket change is the correct way: just can't bring myself to misalign a custom paint job!
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:38 AM
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Thanks PGR, that is the exact information I was looking for. Ironmark, I know the bracket change is the correct way: just can't bring myself to misalign a custom paint job!
Make sure you are aware, that the lower boxes will touch the bottom of the fairing. And that you plan something to protect your paint. Even if it's just something like some clear protective tape, like the stuff you can buy to protect your saddlebag tops.

The good news is, since the lowers are mounted to the same engine guard as the fairing, the rubbing is minimal.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:41 AM
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Thanks PGR, that is the exact information I was looking for. Ironmark, I know the bracket change is the correct way: just can't bring myself to misalign a custom paint job!
In that case you would be better off going with the non-vented fairing lowers and if you want the vents you can install the aftermarket vents. Raising the outer fairing didn't make the factory stripping line up that noticeable, but I can see your concern with the custom paint job.
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  #8  
Old 11-27-2012, 12:00 PM
creed creed is offline
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Default lowers

PGR will lowers go on even though it rubs,I can make adjustment while installing later with a piece of rubber or tape or even get the dremil out(buying lowers used don't care about lowers just my fairing), but if lowers are an inch to big I've got a problem.On your 2011 rg how much room do you have between fairing and lowers maybe around 7/8 of an inch?iI'm like you a cheap bastard and will be selling this bike in a year or so for a new RG dont want to dump to much in this bike if possible,thanks
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by creed View Post
PGR will lowers go on even though it rubs,I can make adjustment while installing later with a piece of rubber or tape or even get the dremil out(buying lowers used don't care about lowers just my fairing), but if lowers are an inch to big I've got a problem.On your 2011 rg how much room do you have between fairing and lowers maybe around 7/8 of an inch?iI'm like you a cheap bastard and will be selling this bike in a year or so for a new RG dont want to dump to much in this bike if possible,thanks

You pretty much answered your questions yourself.

The storage box makes a solid contact with the fairing. So rubbing movement is minimal. Some clear rubberized protective tape on the edge of the fairing would be ideal.

The 2011 is about what you said. I have not measured it, so just guessing. I'm 22 miles from my bike, so can't just run out and look.
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Old 11-27-2012, 12:36 PM
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[QUOTE=creed;338829[ I'm like you a cheap bastard and will be selling this bike in a year or so for a new RG dont want to dump to much in this bike if possible,thanks[/QUOTE]

The 2010 brackets to raise the upper fairing were somewhere around $75 from PC PaiN, that is the main frame bracket and the chrome brackets that mount to the crash bar, so for $75 or so you can do it right. Raising the upper fairing will give you about 1 inch clearance between the upper fairing and the lower fairing at least it did on my 08.
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