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01-07-2013, 10:54 AM
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Life Member
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: jackson , michigan
Posts: 2,245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martin
I did not even know there should be holes in the rear of the fairing. When facing the front of the bike and looking at the fairing I have one hole where the left headlamp adjustment screw would go. The other side is solid from the factory with no aftermarket modifications. I have an amp but it is installed much higher. Knowing that it is normal I should have just drilled a hole in it. Didn’t think of that; damn, would have saved me some time. Got to think outside of the box sometime.
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The inner fairing should have to headlight adjuster access holes, 1 hole on the left side lower center and 1 hole right side lower center. There is no access for the upper center adjuster with the fairing on, the access holes are about 3/4 inch in diameter. If the inner fairing is not adjusted correctly up or down on the main fairing mount the headlight adjustment access holes may be covered by the fairing mount. There are slots in the inner fairing that will allow for up and down adjustment of the inner fairing, just loosen the 4 nuts that hold the inner fairing on to the mount and you can slide the inner fairing up or down to expose the adjustment holes.
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 08 FLTR candy red sunglo, 103 Stage IV, 259E cams, V&H Big Shot True Duals, Thundermax tuner, SE Heavy Breather and a bunch of other stuff.
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01-08-2013, 08:14 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 1
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New to the forum.. have a 2012 fltru..just installed daymaker Sunday.. only problem I had was the wiring harness was in the way of the unit going back on. Caught, zipped tied it out of the way, no problem..love it!
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01-12-2013, 07:32 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Yuma, AZ
Posts: 13
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The shipping protector on the center screw should be left off, that could be hitting to wiring harness. Also, make sure new wires don't get behind it.
I will agree, mine took a bit more maneuvering to get it to hook in.
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2013 FLTRX Candy Orange V&H Monster Rounds, Stock headpipes, de-catted, V&H Fuel and Throttle packs, V&H high flow intake, Daymaker LED headlights, Arlen Ness fire ring LED signals, Wind Splitter shield, J&M speakers
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01-19-2013, 07:36 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 10
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I finally bit the bullet and ordered a set of DayMakers for my Glide.
Is everyone just going with the aiming setup out of the box, or how are you aiming the lights?
__________________
08 RoadGlide
Vance & Hines VO intake
103 w/ 255's
Bassani Road Rage 2
Cobra PowrPro tuner
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01-25-2013, 07:39 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2
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Daymaker LED installed in 09 FLTRSE3
The install took longer than I thought it would take. First i checked out the new Daymaker parts - they add some weight - in fact, one daymaker headlight is about the weight of the original headlight assembly.... What I like is that the new headlight assembly brackets have metal reinforcements for the added Led fixture weight and allow for headlamp removal without removing the shark nose fairing. So, without the head lamps installed i was able to feel and see the hanger bracket making installing the sharknose fairing cover one hell of alot easier. Also, as i have a bunch of extra wiring harness in the shark nose as part of the past ipod and hogtunes additions, I had to re- route all the wiring i could to move it out away from additional space needed for the Daymaker lamp fixtures ; like I was saying the Daymaker take more space. Oh, and that Orange and white wire with the spade connecter is buried out of sight in the wire harness well - and easy to find when you carefully extract the additional headlamp wire coiled up in the well. I used only the parts provided in the kit - no need to change out the adjustment bolts. The change Looks good and the light from the Daymakers is abundant! Just like i wanted. Oh, the 4.5 mm socket for alignment adjustments is available from McMaster-Carr.
Last edited by Bronco Billy; 01-25-2013 at 07:48 PM.
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02-11-2013, 02:29 PM
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Hangaround
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: tn
Posts: 72
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20 minute install
Installed my day makers with no problems, it is easier if you remove the headlights ( not the mounting assembly) to hang the fairing back on the hooks, and be sure the green tabs are firmly seated
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2011 Vivid Black RG Custom, Woods 777's, Yaffe bars, D D boss fatcat with performance baffle, Alpine PDX F-6, 6.5 Alpine R's up front (4) and 6x9 R's in bags, Paul Jr- Rapture Wheels 21/17, monotubes w/ 1" drop, SMT contrast boards and bag latches, Daymakers......
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02-14-2013, 06:59 PM
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Hangaround
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: new jersey
Posts: 98
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how long would it take someone to who wanted to steal them to remove them from your bike ? i want to get the daymakers but am afraid to spend $700 only to find them gone when i wake up. on my 2012 RGU it takes 10 seconds to remove the lights from fairing. are the daymakers hooked up differently than stock halogen set up ?
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02-15-2013, 10:14 AM
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Hangaround
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: So. Cal native currently in the Battle Born State of Nevada
Posts: 119
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They are mounted similar to the OEM lamps. I believe they would be no easier to rip off than the factory headlamps. Never heard of one being taken yet. Sorry I cant be of more help.
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2011 FLTRX Vivid Black
Veritas et Aequitas
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02-15-2013, 10:30 AM
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Grey beard
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 1,150
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyMac
New to the forum.. have a 2012 fltru..just installed daymaker Sunday.. only problem I had was the wiring harness was in the way of the unit going back on. Caught, zipped tied it out of the way, no problem..love it!
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You can shorten them if you feel ambitious and are decent with wiring. In the secong picture, You can see the 2 holes in the inner fairing that the lower adjustment screws go through
here is a good thread on the Daymakers
http://www.roadglide.org/showthread....ight=daymakers
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mischief
Raining today so I decided to tackle getting rid of all of the extra wire. The adapter that comes with the Daymaker makes the harness 2 feet long!!!
I shortened mine to about 10 inches
Some of my observations if someone is going to do this...
1. I suggest leaving the length around 12 to 14 inches to allow more maneuvering in putting the nose back on. (I personally don’t mind, but always easier to take more off than to add)
2. The MOCO has the 2 yellow wires (low beam) spliced together before going to each light. You have to keep this splice, or re-splice it your self, or one light will not work. ask me how I know  ( I don’t know why they designed it that way and haven’t had time to look at the wiring diagram to find out.)
Just my 2 cents worth
these are the best lighting investment I made so far...
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Sometimes to achieve the impossible,you have to try the absurd!
2012 FLTRU with assorted ‘ chit’ / 2001 Custom Hayabusa

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02-19-2013, 02:19 PM
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Newbie
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Monroe, ohio
Posts: 46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GroundPounder
Installed my day makers with no problems, it is easier if you remove the headlights ( not the mounting assembly) to hang the fairing back on the hooks, and be sure the green tabs are firmly seated
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Ok, you answered an question about leaving the lights out before installing the fairing. This is how I always reinstalled my fairing anyway...much much simpler. I have a set of daymakers that I am going to put on soon as my garage warms up a little. I read several installs and was wondering if I could leave the daymakers out of the housing they are mounted in until the fairing was installed then put the daymakers back in. Are the daymaker lights held in my the same four Phillips type screws that hold the factory bulbs in place? Why can't I leave the Daymakers mounted in their mounts and wait until the fairing is installed then snap the green clips in place? I have done this several times on my factory lights and this always gave me the most unobstructive view to see the hooks that hold the front of the fairing.
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