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  #1  
Old 04-17-2013, 03:36 PM
neokans neokans is offline
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Default Stabilizer needed for 2013?

Just wondering if anyone else, riding the newer framed bikes are having "handling" problems with their bikes too? I'm experiencing "rear steer", bike slides left n right at higher speeds in particular, the turns. Been thinking about adding a stabilizer from True-Track. Anyone has it? pros-cons please if you do.
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2013, 03:53 PM
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DED HD DED HD is offline
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There are a couple threads on this forum about them.
I just installed Progressive Touring Link.
the 09 and up frame is a big improvement over previous years, but those of us that may ride a little aggressive, still want less rear steer wobble.
the FLTRX with its 12" rear shocks, may bring this out a little more vs the 13" shocks on the Ultra.
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Old 04-17-2013, 03:55 PM
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Welcome to the forum from Florida. I'm not having a problem, but I've been thinking about getting a stabilizer just to make my bike handle better. I've been looking at the one from Alloy Art for different reasons. You may also want to check HD Forums, they are a few threads over there with the 09+ frame with a stabilizer.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:12 PM
neokans neokans is offline
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Thanks guys. DED HD, did the Progressive Touring Link have big improvements? Also i heard that, that particular set-up caused vibrations? What say U?
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:12 PM
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Virtually all production MCs that weren't intended to be road-racers come with rather imprecise suspension components. Maybe start with suspension instead of frame? In addition, instead of mass-production level tolerances, maybe make sure the frame you already have and the related alignments/adjustments are correct to the precision a performance oriented owner would prefer.
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Last edited by 4getNo1; 04-17-2013 at 05:15 PM.
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Old 04-17-2013, 05:25 PM
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?... Any recommendations for a type/model stabilizer? I had the Touring-Link on my RK.


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Old 04-17-2013, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4getNo1 View Post
Virtually all production MCs that weren't intended to be road-racers come with rather imprecise suspension components. Maybe start with suspension instead of frame? In addition, instead of mass-production level tolerances, maybe make sure the frame you already have and the related alignments/adjustments are correct to the precision a performance oriented owner would prefer.
I have to agree with you on this also, when I bought JRI shocks this weekend, I was amazed at how the swingarm and frame aren't properly aligned. Howard taught me how to use shims to properly mount the shocks, something I would've never thought about.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:44 PM
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First check the swing arm bolts, quite a few posts about them being loose, do you notice anything odd while interstate riding?
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2013, 11:32 PM
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I have an '08, but, I can tell you that having put a Glide Pro stabilizer on, building my own laser alignment setup and getting it all together, my bike is completely different in a GOOD way! The bike always followed any kind of surface imperfection, and steered badly on the interstate...as in, I was constantly fighting keeping it straight.

I had to lean to the right enough that I had to keep my nose lined up with the right edge of the stereo!!!

When I did the alignment the laser lines met at the transmission and were a good inch OFF at the axles!!!!

The stock bushings were twisted (sagged) and HARD!!!! Jake uses progressively stiff Neoprene and it is also softer than the stock the theory is to make the engine mount/suspension (since the engine/trans/swingarm are one unit called the Powertrain) absorb the vibrations of the engine while taking up the slack of the suspension.

I can't say enough about the bike. Along with using Dyna Beads, I can see two miles in my rear view mirrors, ride with no hands over any surface imperfections and the bike trails PERFECTLY!!! If anyone doesn't believe I'm gonna ride with Outlaw in a couple weeks and I'll do a demo with him....I can ride straight as an arrow and do long or shorter curves no hands and the bike stays stable as if it were on rails!

The alignment has a LOT to do with Bagger wobble and tracking, especially in curves. If you think of it, the rear wheel wanting to go it's own way in a corner causes HUGE wobble.....I'm not afraid to let go of the bars in a curve that I used to fear WITH my hands on the bars....it's that much of a difference!

So I definitely echo what others have said, again I've got an '08 and don't know the difference in the bushings, but I can't imagine they are that much different, just a bigger swing arm.

Here's a pic of how far off the Factory "Alignment" was off!

http://s1241.photobucket.com/user/DC...ml?sort=3&o=11

When I did the re-check of everything, (I did it several times because I couldn't believe how well it came out) I actually thought one of my lasers had quit working. I didn't turn them on till I had the bike perfectly leveled and straight, I didn't want to "prejudice my findings"....the lines OVERLAPPED and made it look like one laser had quit!!! This isn't my idea BTW, I made my own version of the set up Jake had in his video.

Also, go to Glide Pro's sight, Jake has some great video to show you how his system works. The reason I went with his, is unlike some kits, this merely upgrades the stock system and isn't an add-on to the swing arm or frame.

Last edited by DC-3Mek; 04-17-2013 at 11:43 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:35 PM
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The new frames are much better than then before but still have some wobble when pushed.

I went with the Alloy Art frame stablizer got it off ebay for under $150 I liked it because it mounts on top and does not interfere with exhaust or ground clearance also lime that it mounts to the starter bolts and not the smaller transmission pan bolts.

It did take the high speed wobble out of my bike.

This is a link to thread I started on HD Forums about it
http://www.hdforums.com/forum/tourin...ew-frames.html
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