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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Changing Break Pads.....HELP

This seems rather straight foward. I have the service manuel but, still a couple of questions.

1. Will I have to add more break fluid/bleed air?
2. other than a 12pt. socket any other special tools?
3. is there any other thing I should be carefull of or watch for?

Oh, this is an ABS system.

Thanks in advance,

Nevadasun


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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:14 AM
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 09:25 AM
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Sounds like you are just doing the front? Remember DO NOT squeeze the break lever after you have the calipers off. You will need a torque wrench to re- torque the caliper bolts. Really a simple job. I did mine, front and rear with ABS, and it went just as described in the manual. Check youtube also for some video of the process. After all parts reinstalled and bolts torqued turn on switch to activate ABS and work breaks to seat pads and firm up. I did not remove the lids from either reservoir for front or rear.

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 10:32 AM
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Check out the link that Hogpro provided.

Yes, you may have to add more brake fluid.
unscrew the top of the master cylinder cover to allow any air bubbles to escape, before you spread open the pads(compressing the piston).
No special tools should be required.
Be careful not to spill brake fluid, so wrap a towel around the cap that you unscrewed.
Watch out not to ding up your fender when pulling the caliper off.

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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 10:39 AM
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I replace the fluid with every pad change. Very small reservoir good to keep fluid fresh and clean.


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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 12:25 PM
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You will need a allen wrench to pull the pad pins. There is no need to open the brake cylinders or bleed the brakes. When you have the calipers off just push the pistons in slow and the brake fluid goes right back into the brake cylinders. When the piston are pushed all the way in replace the pads and install the calipers and pump the brake lever. I been changing the brakes on my 08 for since I got it new and I never removed the front or back brake cylinder cover, add brake fluid or had to bleed the brakes. You only need to open the brake cylinder cover when doing a brake fluid flush or if you need to replace the rear brake light switch.


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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERod62 View Post
I replace the fluid with every pad change. Very small reservoir good to keep fluid fresh and clean.
On ABS brakes I was told "You Have" to put the bike on a Digital Tech. to do a complete brake flush. Otherwise you may throw a code, any truth to that??


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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 12:38 PM
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Digital tech pulses the abs module while bleeding to get air trapped in the abs module out. If you don't introduce air into the module then you will be fine. Use a mighty vac or speed bleeders and make sure the MC is never quite empty. Code is thrown when ABS senses a pressure failure.
Oh yeah no need to bleed with a pad change. Follow the link above and do the cleaning of the pistons. It will reduce drag and help prevent warped rotors.


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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadasun View Post
On ABS brakes I was told "You Have" to put the bike on a Digital Tech. to do a complete brake flush. Otherwise you may throw a code, any truth to that??
Thats what I heard. The book wants you to flush the brake fluid every 2 years but I went 4 years before I flushed mine and the bikes brakes functioned great before I did the flush. I used dot 4 synthetic brake fluid when I did the flush. Unless you are having brake pressure problems I would leave the fluid alone and just do the pads. Don't forget to use disc brake lube on the back of the new pads.


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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 02-19-2014, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nevadasun View Post
On ABS brakes I was told "You Have" to put the bike on a Digital Tech. to do a complete brake flush. Otherwise you may throw a code, any truth to that??
Lol, I was told the same thing, but I have a TMax EFI and the dealer said it wasn't compatible, so I did it myself the old fashioned way, that was about 10,000 miles ago. ..... no issues yet.

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