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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 08:47 AM Thread Starter
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2011 Road Glide code Problems

I bought my 2011 Road Glide Custom a few weeks ago. The bike only had 678 miles on it. Since owning it some issues have surfaced. After riding for awhile the check engine light comes on when I stop...usually at idle with the clutch in. The bike shudders and the light illuminates...then run like crap. After several times happening I researched and pulled the codes last night.

The codes are P0107..P0651..P1510..P2127..P2138

Anyone have any experience with these codes. I read each meaning but as a whole what the problem might be.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 09:28 AM
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A 4 year old bike with only 678 miles, AND error codes??
What'ya wanna bet it's had problems from the beginning??

MAP sensor
Vref out of range
Limited performance mode
TGS2 low/open
TGS correlation error

At least 3 of these are voltage related, 2 of them involve the twist grip directly.

Have the handlebars been changed?? If there's a pinched or broken wire in the bars somewhere that would/could cause all kinds of voltage errors.
That'd be the first place I'd look.

The next spot would be the wiring harness going to the engine under the gas tank. The MAP sensor is under there, as well as the throttle body. Inspect that wiring closely, and while you're there unplug the harness at the throttle body, check/clean the connections there and add some dielectric grease to the connector.(this is a know problem area)

Did you buy the bike from a dealer or private party. If it was adealer I'd definitely go talk with them and while you're there have them pull the service records on the VIN number.

2015 RGU CVO........under continuous change......
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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Bought it from private seller. Handle bars have not been touched. The only work has been voltage regulator replaced per recall. Have had great communication with seller...very honest. Truly believe problem did not exist before sale. Obviously bike sat for extended periods. Hopefully I can figure it out so I dont have to take it to the dealer.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 10:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deezel11 View Post
Bought it from private seller. Handle bars have not been touched. The only work has been voltage regulator replaced per recall. Have had great communication with seller...very honest. Truly believe problem did not exist before sale. Obviously bike sat for extended periods. Hopefully I can figure it out so I dont have to take it to the dealer.

"Always check the last thing done" is rule #1 when troubleshooting. Check, check, double check the regulator installation. I don't remember an official recall, I do know there were some regulator issues with the '12 models, but I don't know that they replaced them "just because".
If you can ride and get it to do it again, check the volt meter when the light comes on. At anything above an idle your voltmeter should show between 14 and 15 volts. Mine shows about 14.5 at highway speeds, measured volts according to my Power Vision is 14.1 usually.
It's also entirely possible you just have a battery issue due to sitting so long.

2015 RGU CVO........under continuous change......
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 12:16 PM
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I've got the same codes minus the TGS2 low/open code. Did you find the problem?

2012 FLTRU - 1981 FLT Classic
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-25-2014, 02:59 PM
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The bike sure has been sitting for awhile and that is probably why you are having a few issues.
When doing the DTCs usually the first DTC is the problem and the remainder of the DTCs are a direct result of the first DTC. HD suggest to work your troubleshooting from the last to the first DTC but I believe that going to the source is best so if the P0107 DTC is the 1st DTC I would go to that which is the MAP sensor.
The map sensor is on the top of the throttle body right behind the air cleaner, you will need to remove the air cleaner cover and the air cleaner backing plate to get to it or you can pull the fuel tank off to access the Map sensor too.
Cleaning the connection and using dielectric grease may cure your problem and while you are there just replace the MAP sensor too.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-03-2014, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Frustrated

Well today I actually had time to wrench on the bike. I bought a new map sensor and pulled the old one. I clean the plug and applied dielectric grease. I also cleaned the other two plugs under the set. Reassembled and voila check engine light came on before I even left the driveway. Im so frustrated it's nice not being able to ride a virtually brand new bike. So out $100.00 bucks. Guess Ill go get ripped by the stealership.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014, 01:47 PM
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Did you clear the existing DTCs before you started the bike after doing the work? Anything that is mechanical doesn't do well just sitting collecting dust.


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Very true

I did clear the codes. Hind sight 20/20 I agree better to run then sit. Going to dealership Friday
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 03:22 PM
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Pull the connector at the rear of the air cleaner and clean and dielectric grease it. That's the Throttle Control Actuator, and it will throw those same codes. Also unplug and clean the big connector under the seat that goes to your ECM.








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