my FLTRi HATES batteries - Road Glide Forums
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View Poll Results: In Your opinion?
stator/ regulator/ rotor/? 1 100.00%
short in wiring? 0 0%
time for a new scoot? 0 0%
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 12:23 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Angry my FLTRi HATES batteries

has anyone else had a problem similar?

I have an 04 FLTRI, while it was under warranty something happened with the harness in the fairing and the gauges all went dead while riding. At the time it was still under warranty, took it to the dealer and they fixed it. (replaced that harness)

Last Year the battery went south. It was always on a battery tender up until then.

replaced with a std battery... DONT DO THAT!!!
dead in a month. got one good ride.

replaced that one with a AGM battery... thought I had the problem solved.
when i connect the battery in a charged state to the neg cable there is a suspicous arc! when the bike is running it indicated around 14-15 volts.

Overnight it was dead.
recharged it, but didn't connect it to test if the bat tra was possible shorting it... battery was still charged in a few days.
tried leaving the battery connected , but pulling the main fuse, next day: dead battery.
I even pulled the factory alarm horn off of the bike....

it was suggested that it could be a short in the generator, so I charged the battery... rode the bike all day, than that night disconnected the regulator lead. the next day, the VDC was down to 11 but the bike could still start.
2 weeks later the battery is dead as a doornail.

I suspect a short in the harness myself..

the dealers are saying replace the stator/rotor/regulator...

that's a pretty pricey deal if it's actually a short.

Your thoughts?
Anyone els come across this?
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 04-01-2012, 01:10 AM
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Location: South Florida
Posts: 12,286
I voted for stator, etc, because that's the only thing I can think of that may still be hooked to the battery when you remove the main fuse, I would have to see the schematic for your year bike, but that's my first guess.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 12:31 AM
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Location: southern Michigan
Posts: 2,610
Having similar problem with my 05
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 04:20 AM
Join Date: May 2012
Location: central florida
Posts: 71
You have a Gremlin Bell ???

It's pretty easy to check the rotor, pull your outer primary and it's right there.
Remove it and check the magnets, if one is loose, it will short out against the stator.

You defintely have a short somewhere.
Just start checking everything.
How about your ground cable itself ? has it rubbed through anywhere ?

It's not about guns.
It's about CONTROL.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 06-16-2012, 04:39 AM
Bigtrev8xl's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Essex. England
Posts: 397
It's very unlikely to be the stator,there's a diode in the regulator(a one way valve which only let's the current flow one way) unless the diode has failed,in which case the the regulator needs to be replaced,it should be possible to do a test for this on the regulator(can't find the test for now)
Also try removing the lead which comes off the regulator, and with the battery still connected and see if it will still hold charge.

Just found this test for the regulator.I've never tried it but looks like it should work.

Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.

1999 EFI. owned since December 2000

Last edited by Bigtrev8xl; 06-16-2012 at 05:32 AM.
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