Before you spend the $$ on rotors, find an independent shop and have them check your brake calipers. If you're mechanically inclined, you can do it yourself, but having them done should be cheap:
The caliper pistons that contact the back of the brake pads float in rubber seals that expand when you apply the brakes. When you relieve pressure, the seals contract a bit, which pulls the pads slightly away from the rotors. After time, grime can buils up around the seals and on the caliper pistons. This grime may be enough that the pistons don't move back enough. So you want to clean the seal area, and look for a buildup of brake dust on the piston itself. In worst-case conditions, you can pop out the piston and remove all buildup.
Also, you want to male sure that the brake pad holder tips are lubed, and that the area that they slide on is clean as well.
If you have a runout gauge, you can check your rotors to see if they're warped, but a shop can do this as well. Might save you a bit on rotors.
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BW TC-44 cams; Fueling race lifters; SE Pro Tuner, ported/polished heads, 10.5 pistons, HV oil pump/camplate; RSD AC; Fullsac/Rinehart 4"