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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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2015 brake pulsation

I recently upgraded to a 21" 18" wheel set for my 2015 Shark. new rotors, abs bearings, etc. I am now getting a brake pulsation when stopping at low speeds. Being that I have the linked braking system I can't tell whether its from the front or rear. I've bleed the brakes, and the rotors measure perfect. Has anyone had this issue or have any ideas on how the get rid of the pulsation?
thanks in advance.


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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 10:24 PM
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I have that situation as well. Mine is from the front. I assume it's my rotor being warped.


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 11:07 PM
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Your ABS operates via speed sensors on the axle vs magnets in the bearings. When the circumference of the tire changes, it will send a false speed reading to the ABS computer. The ratio the computer sees as "correct" is based on the OEM tire sizes. When the tire size is changed, and the ratio is no longer the same, the ABS system reacts when pressure is applied to the brakes to force them to travel at the same speed. If the ratio is modified- without correction- it will "pulse" the calipers on whichever wheel is travelling too fast.

This seems like a dangerous situation. YOUR tire "upgrade", without proper calibration might only serve to make your bike look really cool right before you wreck it. Because you've modified the way the tires vs. brakes are *supposed* to perform, it may cause brake lockup due to the incorrect speed sensor ratio.

I could be completely off-base. But basic physics says that's where the problem lies.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 11:29 PM
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I have a stock set up. So my issues might be caused from a different situation. Thx


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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 11:50 PM
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[QUOTE=Q-Hog;3276617]I have a stock set up. So my issues might be caused from a different situation. Thx


Sounds like YOUR diagnosis is correct. Do the forks "dive" as the brakes pulse? If so, that DEFINITELY sounds like warped rotors.


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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 12:36 AM
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2015 brake pulsation

My Wheel vibration is felt when front brakes are applied.

Fresh glide might need that device that's been mentioned for adding a 21" wheel to a RGS.


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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 04:32 AM
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My understanding is when the abs brakes are bleed it requires a dealer only machine to do it correctly. Some brakes completely lock up. I could be wrong.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Q-Hog View Post
I have a stock set up. So my issues might be caused from a different situation. Thx


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Did you happen to put chrome rotors on your bike before this starting happening?

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 07:03 AM
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My Wheel vibration is felt when front brakes are applied.

Fresh glide might need that device that's been mentioned for adding a 21" wheel to a RGS.


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A way to find out which one it is Qhog, pull one side caliper off, put an old brake pad between the brake pad on the caliper that you took off and zip tie it in there and zip tie it to your crash bar. Think ride the bike on a test ride and see if it still does it. IF it does, that's the warped brake rotor, if not, put it back on and do the same to the other side. Easy way to find out which it is. IF you don't have a spare pad, use something you can zip in there to prevent the caliper from closing up all the way. I think you get what I'm talking about. Good luck finding it.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hifiho View Post
Your ABS operates via speed sensors on the axle vs magnets in the bearings. When the circumference of the tire changes, it will send a false speed reading to the ABS computer. The ratio the computer sees as "correct" is based on the OEM tire sizes. When the tire size is changed, and the ratio is no longer the same, the ABS system reacts when pressure is applied to the brakes to force them to travel at the same speed. If the ratio is modified- without correction- it will "pulse" the calipers on whichever wheel is travelling too fast.

This seems like a dangerous situation. YOUR tire "upgrade", without proper calibration might only serve to make your bike look really cool right before you wreck it. Because you've modified the way the tires vs. brakes are *supposed* to perform, it may cause brake lockup due to the incorrect speed sensor ratio.

I could be completely off-base. But basic physics says that's where the problem lies.
I do have the correct abs bearings for the wheel and tire size upgrade. If it was incorrect the ABS light should come on correct?


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