Spark Plug Torque - Beam style wrenches - Two questions
I've looked all over the web regarding this and got some basic info but wanted to put these questions out there. Maybe it will help others too.
I've always had a beam style foot-pounds torque wrench and, more recently, got a clicker style inch-pounds wrench. For me, the beam style is a no brainer. After just about stripping out one derby cover hole using the clicker which, I learned, sometimes didn't click, I'm gun shy about tightening things into aluminum. I chucked the clicker and last week got a beam style inch pounds wrench so all is cool there.
I'm no stranger to using a torque wrench. Yesterday, replaced my spark plugs. Did it while the engine was still hot (have since learned maybe not the best to do) about 1 hour after a decent highway ride. Used Permatax anti-seize. Put them in by hand then ratchet pre-crush. Used my beam style wrench for crush and beyond, and it seemed each took about maybe 3/4 of a turn to finally make it to 10 foot pounds. They didn't seem to be getting tight all that quickly so, being gun shy, and the engine hot, I left it at that.
1. Is it normal to go this far past ratchet pre-crush to get to spec? The manual says 12-18 but I don't want to strip anything. I know this is a basic question for you advanced wrenches but your knowledge would help.
2. Also, I realize that the 10-15 range on a larger beam style torque wrench isn't all that accurate but I can't find a mid range foot-pounds beam style maybe up to a max of 80. Does anyone know if something like this is made so lower torques like 10-15 would be more accurate?
Thanks from Highway (beam style torque wrench lover) Star
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2015 FLTRXS "HighwayStar"
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