Replacing the motor mounts on an 11 Roadie. - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-25-2017, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Replacing the motor mounts on an 11 Roadie.

OK so a while back we determined that a lot of us had worn motor mounts. And we also realized that it was MoCo parts and aftermarket equivalent, or Glide Pro. And I ordered a set of GP's, then promptly took a time out with a knee issue.

Today I finally got around to doing the motor mounts. It's not a real easy job, not at all like doing them on an FXR.

Having suspected that the problem was mostly with the rears, I did them first. I read the directions about pulling the rear exaust and wheel from the scooter and a bunch of other stuff.

Then I just did it my way.

Jacked it up on my spanking new lift and started pulling it down. Bags and side covers off. I took the rear can hangers loose, pulled the caliper and set it on the bag support. Unclipped the brake line and AL sensor wire from the swing arm and pull the right pivot bolt first. Then unplugged the AL sensor wire and unclipped it from the AL unit. On reassembly, I did have to slip the right can off, it was hitting the axle and preventing the swing arm from lining up on the trans.



Someone had noticed that there was a difference in the pivot bolts the MoCo has used Mine has a hex head spacer and a bolt on each side. No idea as to what the hex head spacer is for, it will not hold the axle to remove the nut.



Then I pulled the left passenger foot peg and motor mount bracket from the frame. I had one jack holding the scooter and another jack to supporting the trans. I really needed them to get it all lined back up. I backed the axle adjuster off and removed the belt. Then pulled the pivot axle out the left side.



Then I moved the swing arm and wheel asm to the rear.




With the swing arm to the rear, I was able to reach in and remove the right mount from the cup in the frame. Just reached in over the front of the swing arm. Slipped the new one in the same way.



Then I push the swing arm back into place and slipped the new GP pivot axle in from the left side. I might be leaving out a bunch of jack adjusting and wheel positioning, hammer swinging and foul language. Seriously to get the trans boss aligned with the swing arm bearings and spacers and right mount is harder than it sounds. And the axle being slathered in anti-seize doesn't help. The spacers being a loose fit was part of the issue. And the right can touching the end of the axle was another. But in the end, and with no loss of blood, it went back in. The axle is a little longer than OEM, and it interferes with the plastic end caps a little. Might not be enough to matter, they are pretty hard to pop off. But I think I'll tape em for the first road test.

At this point I installed the left mount and support bracket and torqued it all down. Then I had a look at the front mount. More or less, right back where it belonged.



The GP rear mounts are made different from the MoCo mounts, and should at first glance be less susceptible to rearward deflection.



End part one


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Last edited by Thermodyne; 06-25-2017 at 10:00 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-25-2017, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Part two

The it was just reinstall the lower shock bolts and the right can, bolt up the rear can hangers and adjust the belt. I'll post a word or two on that, since it's often asked. The axle turn a cam that forces the axle to the rear. The best way to do this is with a little adjuster tool. As Harley tools go, the adjuster is cheap.



Once its tight as a guitar string you can set the tension with a tension tool. 1/2 inch deflection at 10lbs of force. Adjusting the bolt on the tension tool as needed. Easy-peasy. Then torque the nut on the right end of the axle, install the safety clip and remove the adjuster tool. No slipping or turning of the axle as the nut is tightened. I hear people say that they tighten it until they can just grab the belt and twist it a 1/4 turn. After adjusting this one, I tried that. No way could I get a 1/4 turn of twist out of it, perhaps half that much.



End part two


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-25-2017, 09:57 PM Thread Starter
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Part Three

And now the front mount.

Again the directions say to take a bunch of stuff off. Like remove the master cylinder from the scooter. Remove the lowers, blah blah.

And again I did it my way.

With a jack under the motor I removed the left and right floor boards. Then I unbolted the master cylinder and moved it enough to access the right mount support plate, unbolted the plate and dropped the pedal/cylinder asm out of the way. I also left lower fairings in place.

Then I unbolted the right mount from the mount bracket and removed it. I had to unbolt the oil cooler to get access to the mount bracket to engine bolt nuts up on the case. Another way to get to them would be to remove the oil filter. Less mess moving the cooler. With the bolts out I removed the kick stand and removed the bracket with the left mount still bolted to it. Then reversed it all to reassemble. You don't really need to pull the kick stand, but you can see the back side of the mount recess with it off, as well as see the mount bracket while starting the bolts. Only takes a minute to gun it off.




The new mount sits a little higher than the old one and is nice and centered.



Have not ridden it yet, but sitting on it and starting it up it felt a little more hash than before. GP says the mounts need 500 miles to break in, which would prolly soften them up a little.

And now a pointer. There are a bunch of bolts with this job that thread into threaded holes in the frame. And they are retained with thread locker. You need to be able to clean the old thread locker off of the bolts and out of the holes before you resemble them. Locktite will not hold if there is old thread locker in the hole and on the bolt. You don't want this stuff falling off, out on the road. The old thread locker also has an adverse impact on how tight the bolts actually are torqued.

As scooter work goes, this is a 12 pak job. Lots of locked bolts, some that are just plain hard to reach, and generally a lot of stuff in the way. And lining up the rear pivot axle takes some patience, a bigger hammer wont get it done. And you'll need at least two jacks. Craftsman floor jack would be almost worthless on this job, but you could get it done on the floor.

Now before you run out an buy a bunch of tools, it's three hours billable at the dealer. If I did another one this week, I could get it done in three hours, but it's not a gravy job. So they might try to bill more time. So look it over and if you decide to take a run at yours, I hope this helps a little.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 02:37 AM
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Thanks for the great write up nice job i had the Glide PRO on my old electra 98 and those were great ,i will go with Glide PRO again on my 15fltrxs if i need to change the mounts


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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 04:37 AM
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Awesome write up brother thanks for taking the time to do so.


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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 05:25 AM
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I did this a couple of months ago and man does it tighten up the bike and makes it more responsive in the curves.

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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 06:48 AM
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You're the man Thermodyne! Really appreciate you taking the time to shoot pics and do all that typing. Now if I can just find an extra $450. My old girl definitely needs something. I need to lay her down on the table and start undressing her. She's feeling loose in all the wrong places.


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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 10:30 AM
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Nice write up! I never had any problem with the rear mount, the rear mount on my bike is still the original mount. Replaced the front mount 1 time but I didn't need to replace it because it was in great condition. 100,000 + miles on the 08 and the HD mounts are in great condition.


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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 11:02 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmark View Post
Nice write up! I never had any problem with the rear mount, the rear mount on my bike is still the original mount. Replaced the front mount 1 time but I didn't need to replace it because it was in great condition. 100,000 + miles on the 08 and the HD mounts are in great condition.
This is more of an 09 and newer issue. The 08s use a different set up, same mounts as the old 86> FXR/FLT.


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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-26-2017, 12:33 PM
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Excellent write up. I think this is something I'm gonna have to do this winter. Thanks for the info

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