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Fluids and Lubricants discussion of all fluids and lubricants

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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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1K Service Help/Advice

* 2016 FLTRXS with FM STAGE 1:2-1-2 Headers, Hi-roller slips ons, Pro billet AC, and Power Vision*

First of all, I'm doing my own 1k service...and I guess that's why I'm here. Again, this is my FIRST HARLEY and FIRST BRAND NEW motorcycle. This will be my first 1k service for any of the bikes I've had and I'm just looking for pointers, tips and tricks, and overall advice/help.

I have the owner's manual...and first want to know if the checklist in the back is the same as the service manual. Would I need to get the service manual to do a proper 1k service.

I KNOW I WILL PUT THE RIGHT OILS/LUBES for each hole, none of that same liquid in all 3. So I've heard great things about amsoil and redline or whatever. A comment on what you use would be great guidance...I live in Sunny SoCal(Los Angeles).

Lastly, I'm currently at about 800 miles and a quarter in to my tank. I'm sure i will reach 1k before I finish the tank before this weekend's ride...SO would you guys recommend I do my 1k service before I do my WEEKEND riding regardless of mileage or should I do my WEEKEND riding then do the service after, like Sunday after all the activities. I know I will be well over 1k by that time so just advice would be great.

On my list of oils as of now is:
1. Amsoil Premium Protection 20w/50 Synthetic Motor Oil (i have read some controversy on this, but I do not have cats anymore since I did a FM stage 1)
2.Redline 20w/60
3.Mobil1 15w/50
4.Shell rotella t for primary
I'M UP IN THE AIR FOR GEAR LUBES for the TRANNY

Any knowledge on oils from MY SHARK BROTHERS would be very helpful!

Thanks in advanced and sorry for the long read. I JUST REALLY TRUST YOUR OPINIONS AND INPUT.

Blessings from the City of Angels,
Kevin Canta
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 06:38 PM
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Tons of info on do it yourself 1K service. Do a search....

Bob
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 06:42 PM
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I love Amsoil and have used it for years. I like Redline 20w50 and it's a great oil. I use Liquid-Moly and buy it on Amazon. It's made by BMW. I use the 20w60 and pay about $40 for a 5 litre bottle. I and others have run test and had it check at Blackstone Labs and intervals all the way to 8000 miles on an oil change. Every single one came back with shining great reports. The one at 8000 said they believed it could stay in til 10,000 miles and be ok. I didn't but now when I go on the long trips, I don't worry about getting the oil changed in the middle of it. I use Wix oil filters from O'Reilly Auto Parts. One of the best filters made. In the tranny, I use Redline shock proof gear lube, and in the primary I use the Liqui-Moly or prefer the Redline or Bel-Ray primary oil. Either is equally as good. It's an oil thread and you can get a hundred different testimonies on this subject. The one I have has been tested and proven. But then again, I imagine, others have been too. Good luck and happy servicing.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 07:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevincanta View Post
* 2016 FLTRXS with FM STAGE 1:2-1-2 Headers, Hi-roller slips ons, Pro billet AC, and Power Vision*

First of all, I'm doing my own 1k service...and I guess that's why I'm here. Again, this is my FIRST HARLEY and FIRST BRAND NEW motorcycle. This will be my first 1k service for any of the bikes I've had and I'm just looking for pointers, tips and tricks, and overall advice/help.

I have the owner's manual...and first want to know if the checklist in the back is the same as the service manual. Would I need to get the service manual to do a proper 1k service.

I KNOW I WILL PUT THE RIGHT OILS/LUBES for each hole, none of that same liquid in all 3. So I've heard great things about amsoil and redline or whatever. A comment on what you use would be great guidance...I live in Sunny SoCal(Los Angeles).

Lastly, I'm currently at about 800 miles and a quarter in to my tank. I'm sure i will reach 1k before I finish the tank before this weekend's ride...SO would you guys recommend I do my 1k service before I do my WEEKEND riding regardless of mileage or should I do my WEEKEND riding then do the service after, like Sunday after all the activities. I know I will be well over 1k by that time so just advice would be great.

On my list of oils as of now is:
1. Amsoil Premium Protection 20w/50 Synthetic Motor Oil (i have read some controversy on this, but I do not have cats anymore since I did a FM stage 1)
2.Redline 20w/60
3.Mobil1 15w/50
4.Shell rotella t for primary
I'M UP IN THE AIR FOR GEAR LUBES for the TRANNY

Any knowledge on oils from MY SHARK BROTHERS would be very helpful!

Thanks in advanced and sorry for the long read. I JUST REALLY TRUST YOUR OPINIONS AND INPUT.

Blessings from the City of Angels,
Kevin Canta
I'd ride it this weekend, then start the service incase you run into trouble. It's always helpful to have a shop manual around when your working on the bike. You'll need it for torque specs anyways.
Try to loosen the clutch cover screws when the bike is hot. This might help soften up the lock tite on the threads . They can be a pita the first time. You can reuse the the clutch covers gasket too, and the O rings on the plugs if they look good. I always fill the engine oil to between the marks. This will keep the blow-off into the air cleaner to a minimum. The other two holes I add what's recommend.
I run Mobile 1 20/50 in the engine and Redline gear oil with shockproof in the tranny. I use HD SN3 in the primary because of its synthetic properties, witch indurse heat better than non synthetic and it's HD approved. If you choose Rotella or atf, that will be fine too for the primary .
Good luck .

2010 FLTRX , Stage 1, 13" Madstad, Mono tubes, SuperShox, Heritage style bars. Alpine CDE-HD149BT,Soundstream Picasso Nano Series PN4.520 , 5X7 and 6.5 Infinity Kappa speakers
If I have to explain ,you wouldn't under stand anyway.

Last edited by Big_gary; 04-13-2016 at 07:05 PM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 07:15 PM
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I'd ride it this weekend, then start the service incase you run into trouble. It's always helpful to have a shop manual around when your working on the bike. You'll need it for torque specs anyways.
Try to loosen the clutch cover screws when the bike is hot. This might help soften up the lock tite on the threads . They can be a pita the first time. You can reuse the the clutch covers gasket too, and the O rings on the plugs if they look good. I always fill the engine oil to between the marks. This will keep the blow-off into the air cleaner to a minimum. The other two holes I add what's recommend.
I run Mobile 1 20/50 in the engine and Redline gear oil with shockproof in the tranny. I use HD SN3 in the primary because of its synthetic properties, witch indurse heat better than non synthetic and it's HD approved. If you choose Rotella or atf, that will be fine too for the primary .
Good luck .
Actually Gary, they are not recommending that anymore for the primary due to the failures of the compensators over the last several years. A good synthetic oil or a Redline or Bel-Ray primary oil is much better on the lubrication of the compensator and works well with the clutch pack too,

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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 07:28 PM
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Actually Gary, they are not recommending that anymore for the primary due to the failures of the compensators over the last several years. A good synthetic oil or a Redline or Bel-Ray primary oil is much better on the lubrication of the compensator and works well with the clutch pack too,
I read about folk's having problems with slippage on the clutch using full synthetic. I got almost 40k and never changed the compensator. Been using SN3 since day 1 in the primary. Maybe I'm lucky. I hadn't heard that the moco disapproved of the usage of the SN3 either. I will have to check on that , thanks.

2010 FLTRX , Stage 1, 13" Madstad, Mono tubes, SuperShox, Heritage style bars. Alpine CDE-HD149BT,Soundstream Picasso Nano Series PN4.520 , 5X7 and 6.5 Infinity Kappa speakers
If I have to explain ,you wouldn't under stand anyway.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Big_gary View Post
I read about folk's having problems with slippage on the clutch using full synthetic. I got almost 40k and never changed the compensator. Been using SN3 since day 1 in the primary. Maybe I'm lucky. I hadn't heard that the moco disapproved of the usage of the SN3 either. I will have to check on that , thanks.
I sure hope not, since they say that syn3 comes in the bike, and it is all over the manual to use syn3.

As far as all the other stuff besides the fluids, you need the service manual for the torque specs of all the fasteners that should be checked.

I bought the service manuals from boardtracker. Got a good price compared to local dealer.

Since this is my first Harley, I bought the funnel to put the fluid in the primary, and the funnel to capture the oil that will otherwise drip all over the front of the bike when you pull the oil filter.


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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 08:57 PM
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Smarty, you have any model number for the Wix oil filter you use?


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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-13-2016, 09:31 PM
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sup kevin. i do my own service too. all (3) drane plugs are the same on the new bikes. do not pull the "set screw" below the crank. you will get a bit of oil out of doing this but its for tear down, or major motor work when you need to split the case...the first time you do it , it may be easy to drop one oil at a time. i use ams oil in everything i own.. they just came out with a specific trans oil . in the bike now. i like it a little better, seems a bit heavier. before that i just used motor oil in both.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 08:18 AM
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Smarty, you have any model number for the Wix oil filter you use?


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Wix 51348 or Wix 57348

I prefer the 51348, the microns it filters is a little bigger like the older Harleys were. I've heard horror stories of the new higher microns making the bypass valve open sooner which is not filtering at all. Another thing most people don't understand is, when you crank your engine on cold mornings, the bypass opens to let oil through until it has warmed enough to become thin enough to pass thru the filter. Always a great idea not to blip your throttle on startup and wait a minute before and let it warm before you take off. This is when the most metal on metal happens and micro particles circulate thru out the system. If you want what the Harley filter is, get the 57348.
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