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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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Non-Harley fuel managers

I have a 2012 RGU that I want to put a tuner on. I was leaning toward the V&H Fuelpak. I was told at one of the local Harley shops that the Fuelpak would void the warranty. Has anyone heard of this or had experience with the Fuelpak causing warranty issues? To be clear, he did say that all of the non-Harley tuners will void the warranty. My thought is they are trying to see the Screamin Eagle tuners.

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 04:40 PM
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nice thing about fuel pak or other piggyback tuner is if bike has to go in to shop you can just disconnect it and put it back on after shop visit

2013 FLTRU Vance and Hines Dresser duals,Monster ovals, VO2 naked intake, and Power Vision
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 04:58 PM
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No it will not void the warranty. The dealer just wants to sell you some expensive dyno time and a SE tuner.

This will explain it better.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 05:10 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Redfish-Joe. I just don't want any problems with the dealer I use. They were trying to sell me a SERT.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 05:56 PM
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If they try to claim that they will void it, just ask if they have ever heard of the "Magnuson–Moss Warranty Act" (Federal Law enacted in 1975. It is the federal statute that governs warranties on consumer products). They must prove that any Non-Harley addition was the direct cause of the failure.

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Last edited by RoadGlideRider; 10-10-2011 at 09:09 PM.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 06:21 PM
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he is lying to you. (the dealer that is)
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 09:56 AM
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I have a SERT from HD and it works great, so there is no reason not to consider it. The SERT can be installed and programed without a dyno. To get the best performance out of your bike a dyno is beneficial no matter what tuner you have on a bike. The bikes that you hear popping and backfiring on decel are usually running a aftermarket tuner that has not been dyno tuned.

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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 10:43 AM
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Truth is that even the SE solution will void you warranty... read the fine print on the SE tuner.

I went with the Dynojet Power Vision... got it from Jamie at FuelMoto (

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by wachuko View Post
Truth is that even the SE solution will void you warranty... read the fine print on the SE tuner.

I went with the Dynojet Power Vision... got it from Jamie at FuelMoto (
The SE Tuner has a disclaimer that it voids the warranty also unless you get the Street Legal version and then it defeats the purpose of getting a tuner because it limits you to EPA Lean settings.

Bottom line is nothing that you do should void your warranty unless the modification directly caused the failure. That is the bacis of the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act

I wals went with the Power Vision Tuner and got it from Jamie at Fuel Moto because of the ease of use and the customer support from Fuel Moto.

IMO dont waste your $ on the HD Download or the Fuelpak, if you want a low cost solution and are going piggyback tuner get a PCV only about 75-100 more than a Fuel Pac and can truly be tuned on a dyno if needed, can add auto tune if needed, can get unlimited MAP support from Fuel Moto if you buy from them. If you want to do it right and have the ability to grow if you do more mods in the future go with a true tuner, SESPT, SERT, TTS, Power Vision etc. I went Powerr Vision because of the ease of use and support available. i also like being able to keep my O2 sensors connected and use that data.

As for being able to remove the tuner (fuelpak or PCV ) to take it in for warranty at the dealer, its a lot easier if you wanted to do that with a "flash" unit like the Power Vision, I can flash my ECM back to stock or the HD Stage 1 MAP in under 5 minutes (longest part is removing the saddle bag) as long as I have battery power . Removing the Fuel Pac or PC would be a lot more work and it is still easy to see that it was on the bike because you have to alter the ECM mount to make it fit.

Just my opinions

2011 FLTRX, 103 Power Pak, Stage 1 with Power Vision and V & H Power Duals, SE A/C, Cee Bailey TRSSC 15", Progressive 940 rear,Mono Tubes Front, C & C Fastback Seat and some extras in black here and there

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 10-11-2011, 11:02 PM
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(This is going to be long but I hope you will find my experience helpful.)

You really want to think about what your goals are for doing the tuner thing to your bike. For example, are you going to drag race the bike, are you just going to ride it around town, are you going to tour with it, etc. Many guys are do it yourselfers but if you are like me with a new $26K 2011 RGU and don't want to F it up, you are going to pay someone to do the job. A honest and competent tech ought to give you a recommendation, based on your goals, about what type of tuner to use, whether to use canned maps, dyno the bike or not and if so, how much dyno time to meet your goals. Bottom line, however, is that you will always get the best out of your tuner and bike if you take the time (and spend the cash) to dyno it. If you are going to drag race your bike and you want to get evey single ounce of power out of it you would want to dyno it up to 100% RPMs. You must be aware, however, that putting that much stress on the engine and tranny while on a dyno does have the possibility of engine damage or overheating and blueing the exhaust pipes, etc. If you are just into touring, for example, you might only want to dyno it to 80%. This reduces dyno time and therefore cost. In this scenario a good tech can give you a very acceptable download for the remaining 20%. Anyway, lots of things to think about before getting started and if the guys that are going to do the job for you can't talk to you about this kind of stuff then you need to find someone who knows WTF they are doing.

After lots of discussion with a couple of HD Dealers, their service managers, and the techs who would do the job, I settled on one particular shop. The tech, BTW, who I insisted had to do the work, had done somewhere north of 500 dynos. This particular shop, after lots of experience with tuners over a number of years, carried both the latest version of the SE tuner (because they had to as a HD Dealer) and the TTS Mastertune. I won't bore you with the details but the owner of TTS Mastertune developed the SE tuner for HD and left the company after some kind of falling out and started his own company. You can check this out on the internet. No question that both tuners will get the job done but the TTS has more sophisticated software that allows the tech to more accurately and quickly tune the bike. I was fortunate enough to be allowed into the dyno room with tech and watched the whole procedure. The tech showed me both the TTS and SE software and why they preferred TTS which was clear to me after the tutorial on both products.

When I bought my bike new, I put SE Stage 1 and Reinharts on it before I drove it out of the dealership so I never really rode it around in a completely stock situation except for the demo ride. At the time, they downloaded the standard HD Stage 1 map which I'm sure continued to make the bike run lean and added some minor level of HP and Torque to the stock set up. My bike ran fine but there was some exhaust popping and such due to the lean condition. Ultimately, my goal was to give the bike more juice for touring (passing power, etc.). Based on the tech's recommendation, I elected to go for the the TTS Mastertune which cost slightly less than the SE tuner. I had them dyno it to 80%. Once completed the TTS was disconnected, my map was downloaded to a thumb drive. I keep both the tuner and the thumb drive in one of the saddlebags just in case. Final numbers were an increase of 10+hp and 10+ ft. lbs. of torque to the rear wheel. What a difference! The additonal power was amazing. The bike jumps at the crack of the throttle and there is no exhaust popping. Just got back from a 3,400 mile trip. It was fun to blow around tractor/trailers with authority on the interstate in 6th gear by just hitting the gas.

Whew! My fingers hurt from typing. Time for a couple of brewskis. Ride safe gang.
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