Thanks for all the suggestions. I decided to go with the Power Vision and AC combo from FuelMoto. I don't really need the AC but you can't beat the price and at the least I'll have some good swap fodder. Who knows, I may even like it better than my Ventilator.
On another note, I found the tuner thread I mentioned in my first post. It was not on here, but another HD website (HDforums.com) I frequent. This rundown is by a guy that goes by the Screen name "DK Custom". Otherwise I don't know the guy but I do appreciate his efforts trying to encapsulate the whole tuner thing. As a guy who didn't know anything about tuners I found I got quite a bit from his post. Should anybody disagree with anything he states DON'T SHOOT THE MESSENGER, with me being the messenger in this case. If you should have another perspective that may be helpful, I'm sure there are others here that would like to hear it. His words start after the line....
Discussions on the different options of tuning an EFI Harley oftentimes are
very limited. Either due to passion, personal experience, etc., the entire
spectrum of options is not explored objectively.
What I want to accomplish with this post is an overview of the variety of
options available, so that people can make an informed decision, based on
their needs, desires and budget.
This is by no means a complete list of all options, but it does encompass
the 5 most popular ways that are currently being used in Stage 1 upgrades.
It also does not delve into a lot of the technical data (and there is a
bunch), it is an overview so that one can choose which path, or paths, they
want to explore more fully.
There are basically five ways to go in the tuning arena of a Stage 1:
1. Do nothing. Many advocate that no tuning change is needed at all when
adding free flowing mufflers and intake. The ECM will make necessary
It is true that the ECM will make adjustments, and the bike will run.
However, it will still be lean and probably even leaner than EPA
requirements. It will run hotter, not accelerate as well, and may have
hesitation in low speed situations.
There are many reports of people being very happy with this option.
This is the least expensive.
2. Use an XiED product. Many are very happy with the improvement in cooling,
reduction in pinging, hesitation, and generally smoother and stronger
This is an excellent option for a stock bike, a bike with free flowing air
cleaner or exhaust, or a bike with both free flowing air cleaner and
exhaust. It uses the base tune from Harley-Davidson, and adds some fuel into
the areas that HD had to lean out for EPA reasons. The results are a much
better running bike.
However, if you are looking for the best possible performance, it does leave
10%-15% of the available power on the table. It is a budget solution that
many are happy with, because to get that extra 10%-15%, one needs to speed
400% to 900% or more money.
This is second least expensive and the most benefit for $ spent.
2.5 The Fuelpak is a piggy back device in a category by itself. It adjusts
the AFR in both open & closed loop. It does not adjust the timing at all.
V&H Customer Support will give you codes based on what mods you have done to
your bike that change the tune. Many use the Fuelpak and are very happy with
it. Others say their experience with it is very poor. Since this option does
not allow any adjustment of timing this can be good for stock bikes up to
It is over twice the cost of option #2 and just a little less than option
#3. The difference being with option #3 you can adjust timing (on most) and
have complete control over the tune.
3. Use a "piggy-back" tuner like the PCV. These tuners can be used with a
"canned" tune, or can be adjusted on a laptop computer or a Dyno. They
override the Harley-Davidson tune and, if used properly, will deliver 100%
of the available power.
Some do not like them because they sit on top of the HD ECM and in rare
instances that can cause problems. However, in the right hands (a skilled
person) they can give you a great tune, taking full advantage of all
This is the third least expensive and results can be great or poor,
completely dependent on the quality and time put into the tune.
4. Use a full featured "flash" tuner like the TTS, SESPT, or Power Vision in
conjunction with a Dyno. These tuners can give you control over the ECM to
get the best possible tune, delivering 100% of all available power. They do
not override the HD tune, they actually change the tune in the ECM.
In the right (experienced & competent) hands, these will deliver the
absolute best possible results. Unfortunately not only is this the most
expensive route to go, there are 99 bad to mediocre people running dyno
tunes for every truly competent person doing dyno tunes. The cost of the
tuner ($500-$600) and another $300- $1000 in dyno costs make this the most
expensive option, with the possibility of not getting any better results
than one would get with a "canned" tune.
This is the most expensive and can deliver the best results, or poor
results, dependent on the person running the dyno.
5. Use a TTS or Power Vision with Auto-Tune. This is the same "flash" tuner
as option #4 above, but instead of spending $ on a Dyno tune, and possibly
getting a poor tune due to the person doing the dyno tune...it uses the
built-in computer to record how you ride, the conditions you ride in, and a
variety of other factors, then the device makes changes accordingly,
improving the tune every time you ride the bike.
This is a sure way to get 99%-100% of all the power available, and not have
it rely on a person running the Dyno, that may or may not do a good job. It
also will adjust for any future modifications done to the bike without
incurring any additional costs.
This is the second most expensive option and reliably delivers great tunes
2011 RG Custom (Black Denim)