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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Cool Oxygen sensors help

I am somewhat confused. I am not sure if the person who sent me this info knows what he is talking about, but he now has me concerned. I removed the cat from my stock exhaust header. My motor is otherwise bone stock except I am running cobra slip ons. I have not done the stage one nor am I running a tuner. After I did the cat removal I had two occassions where the bike refused to run after I turned it off then immediately tried to turn it back on. It appears it got hot and went into limp mode, one of the times I held the throttle open and it did start but only ran on one cylinder. Both times I was riding a road along a river at less than 25 MPH for several miles. Once I allowed the bike to sit for about 5 minutes it started and ran fine. So I posted this to see if the cat removal could cause it to run hot. I got a response telling me to make sure I put the right oxygen sensor in the right hole. He told me grey to the front and black to the rear. The problem I have is the wires on both sensors have the same colored wires (I think, its hard to get in there), and I dont see any other colored marking on them although they are hard to get to. Does this make any sense to anyone and if so, can this cause an overheating issue? And if so, how do you tell which is which? I have a very long ride this weekend with a large group and really dont want any issues with my bike. By the way it is a 2011 RGU with 7000 miles and I do have my lowers on. Any help is greatly appreciated.


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 07:45 AM
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My guess would have been the O2 sensors in the wrong hole also if as you said there have been no other mods made. I have had no issues since removing my cat and like yours mine is bone stock except for the slip-ons.

Sorry I can't add any other insight except maybe disconnecting the negative battery cable and then re-attaching it to see if the ECM re-sets.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 08:13 AM
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The sensors have the same color connectors, but the connectors on the bike's wiring harness are different colors. I don't remember if they are located under the seat or the right side cover. Mine are under the right side cover now, but I don't remember if that's where they were before I added the wide band sensors.


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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 08:19 AM
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If the O2 sensors were hooked up incorrectly the bike will have issues with the way it runs all the time. From your description of the problem your experiencing, it sounds like the motor is overheating and going into limp mode. I know this sounds like a broken record, but most times any change in exhaust and or intake on the new bikes needs to be addressed with some type of fuel adjustment. Especially in hot climates such as Texas.


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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 08:25 AM
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The connectors under the right side cover are color coded. Make sure they are plugged in correctly and FULLY plugged in. Then trace the wires to the sensors and make sure they are plugged into the correct holes. The holes are marked "G" and "B" for grey and black.








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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 10:20 AM
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Make sure the wires to the sensors have room to flex and aren't tight or hung up on anything. As PGR said, the actual connectors are color coded and in plain sight under the right side cover. The head pipe has an 'F' and an 'R' next to the bungs.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 11:47 AM
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another factor that I have read with removing the cat is crosstalk between the two sensors

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kflhr View Post
another factor that I have read with removing the cat is crosstalk between the two sensors

Urban legend...... If you open up the pipe, the sensors are ahead of the cat. Removing the cat does not affect the sensors in any way. They are also separated by the tube, as seen in this picture.

The sensors are being played by sharpies in this post catectomy pipe. As you can see, there is no way they could talk to each other.









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Last edited by PGR; 06-20-2013 at 12:38 PM.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 01:42 PM
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I would not say there's no way, because reversion stirs things up pretty good... But I would say it's unlikely much different than when the CAT was there.

Certainly wouldn't expect cross talk to be creating the issue the OP has encountered.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 06-20-2013, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageglide View Post
I would not say there's no way, because reversion stirs things up pretty good... But I would say it's unlikely much different than when the CAT was there.

Certainly wouldn't expect cross talk to be creating the issue the OP has encountered.

If you have enough reversion to mix gasses from one tube to the other, you are running serious high lift cams. In that case running decatted stock pipes would be kind of defeating the purpose of spending the money on cams..

And you are right.... it would be no different than when the cat was still there. But if there was a difference, you would think that not having anything in the way of the outflow, with the cat gone, would create LESS cross talk.








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Last edited by PGR; 06-20-2013 at 02:27 PM.
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