Installed Heritage Style Bars on 2010 FLTRX - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Installed Heritage Style Bars on 2010 FLTRX

This past weekend I installed the Heritage style bars for touring bikes on my bike. I did not attempt to run the wires (except the TGS cable) inside the bars. Here's some advice for those interested in doing the same:

- Read the posts in this forum. I got a lot of good information here.
- You must have a service manual.
- In addition to the manual and bars, purchase a stock left grip in case you can't get the old one off intact. You'll need zip ties, thread locker, string, fishing sinker, and grip glue as well.
- Take your time. I did this on an evening and the next day.
- Read through the manual and mark the pages you'll need: Remove fairing, remove instrument cluster, remove controls, remove lock/switch knob, remove handlebar. I did this on Friday evening and visualized what I was going to have to do. Sleep on it and do the work the next day.
- Cover everything with a towel, pads, etc. Put a blanket on the floor for the fairing and other parts.
- Have a rag ready to catch any brake fluid that may escape through the vent.
- Get a piece of 5/32" cardboard to insert in the brake handle _before_ loosening the brake assembly.
- Use the string to tie off the controls as you remove them. You'll need a piece to pull the Throttle Grip Sensor (TGS) cable back through the new handlebar.
- Yes, you have to take the fairing off to disconnect the TGS cable. PITA. A connector should have been put in the space under the instrument cluster.
- I took out the 4 screws (2 each side) that hold the plastic shell for the instruments and switches to the forks.
- One tip I got from the forum was to clip the tie wrap that holds the brake lines to the frame. I re-tied the lower line to the anchor bracket and tied the upper line to the lower a few inches back. (It will make sense when you see it.)
- Tie the small fishing sinker to a piece of string to make it easier to feed string down the bar to be able to pull the TGS cable back up the bar past the indent.
- If the book says, "be careful," be gentle.

Any time you change one of the ergonomic factors, it seems like a new bike. take a practice ride to get used to the new response. Your arms will be telling your brain that things aren't right. the first thing I experienced was a change in throttle position as I went over bumps and patches in the road. The bounce was transmitted to my arm and the throttle.

I'm probably going to adjust the bars to see how I like them in different positions. I haven't quite got them dialed in.

HTH

Last edited by EZMotoTim; 07-27-2010 at 02:42 PM.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 05:06 PM
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good info! Thanks!
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-27-2010, 06:12 PM
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appreciate the writeup, thanks!


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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 05:03 PM
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Thanks for the info. Was wondering where that tcs wire ran to. Guess I better re plan my attack.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 05:05 PM
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1 question? Couild you go thru the headlight insead of taking off the fairing? If so how do your get the black plastic trim pc off with out breaking the tabs?
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 05:16 PM
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Great tips where's the pics

Great tips, and much appreciated, but what we really want is some pics of the bike with upgraded bars...




Ridin a two lane montser, feedin on one cage at a time ...
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 05:18 PM
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Great tips wheres the pics

Thanks for the write up--where's the pics. We would like to see pictures of the new bars...




Ridin a two lane montser, feedin on one cage at a time ...
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slamglide View Post
1 question? Couild you go thru the headlight insead of taking off the fairing? If so how do your get the black plastic trim pc off with out breaking the tabs?
The short answer is, no. I think it would be far more difficult to accomplish the task if you leave the fairing on.

I ripped the tab on the black plastic trim piece the second time I took off the fairing. Replacement is about $8.00 and the part wasn't stocked by my dealer. Since then I've learned to take off the fairing leaving the trim in place. I remove the trim from behind the removed fairing by using a putty knife to unlock the tabs. After that, I remove the headlamp assembly so I can put the fairing back on more easily.

Here's a longer answer to why I think it is not possible to disconnect the TGS wiring without removing the fairing.

If you are familiar with the way the fairing is supported behind the headlamps, this will make sense. If not, you have to imagine it.

The front of the fairing is supported by two metal "hooks." The flat plasitc behind the headlamp assembly fits into the hooks. It's a pressure fit and I usually have to bump the fairing to get it to go back and down into the hooks.

The metal bracket that forms the hooks that support the fairing has two indentations behind the front indentation that is the "hook." The cable that the TGS cable plugs into is supported by the indentation immediately behind the "hook." So you have to be able to get at the cables and connectors in order to disconnect and reconnect the TGS cable. After you've done it once you might be able to do it without removing the fairing, but you would have to remove the black trim piece and the headlamp assembly in order to get access to the connector. You can get the trim piece off if you are very careful, but I'm not sure you could squeeze the 3 fasteners that hold the headlamp assembly to the fairing.

Another reason to take off the fairing is to be able to guide the cable through the nest of other cables as you remove and reinstall it.

I told you it would be a long answer. Let me know if it is understandable.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the write up--where's the pics. We would like to see pictures of the new bars...
I haven't had the bike out since doing the mod. Had a little surgery. I'll take pictures this weekend.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 03:56 PM
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When I did mine I didn't have to take off the ignition lock assembly. I loosened the 4 bolts on the fork legs and was able to shift the plastic side to side to get the lower 2 bolts out. Didn't need that new longer TGS sensor that they try to sell you for 95 with tax. The stock one worked fine. The only trouble I seem to have is 1) the wiring forthe left side switches seems a bit tight. And 2) the damn brake switch plunger doesn't contact the lever anymore to hut the brake lights off. Used felt on the lever for an easy quick fix, but that'll eventually come off. Just my experience. Put the same grips I had on my Heritage on this too. Feels like the same bike, well sorta. There's no bike like the Road Glide. Hands down
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