Hi Mr. Chainsaw, ABS System Bleeding Request. - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-11-2012, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Mr. Chainsaw, ABS System Bleeding Request.

I have read about three/four threads on bleeding ABS brake systems, on all youíve said it not problem and you have done quite a few bikes. Could I ask you to bullet points the steps needed to do the bleeding and what equipment you need e.g. mighty-vac etc. I want to change my upper line and maybe the two lower lines to the front brake calipers. I have $367 good reasons to do it myself.


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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-11-2012, 02:45 PM
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EDITED** You will have to forgive me, my brain seems to be my own worst enemy at times. If you read what I posted earlier, I told you wrong.
With the upper brake line, you have to bleed the brakes manually. i.e. the old fashioned way of putting fluid in your resivour and squeezing the lever a lot of times till it builds up pressure. The vacuum bleeder we have, only hooks up to the bleeder screws, which aren't on your ABS box. Again, sorry for my memory sucking,. but I'm pretty sure we opened the bleeder valve on the brakes on the bottom. Let me check with my buddy tomorrow, hopefully his memory is better then mine and I can tell you for sure.

Also, there is also no reason to change the 2 lower lines,.. has nothing to do with your handlebar line at all, and will add a hefty price tag to your bill to buy all those cables that aren't needed.






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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CHAINSAW View Post
EDITED** You will have to forgive me, my brain seems to be my own worst enemy at times. If you read what I posted earlier, I told you wrong.
With the upper brake line, you have to bleed the brakes manually. i.e. the old fashioned way of putting fluid in your resivour and squeezing the lever a lot of times till it builds up pressure. The vacuum bleeder we have, only hooks up to the bleeder screws, which aren't on your ABS box. Again, sorry for my memory sucking,. but I'm pretty sure we opened the bleeder valve on the brakes on the bottom. Let me check with my buddy tomorrow, hopefully his memory is better then mine and I can tell you for sure.

Also, there is also no reason to change the 2 lower lines,.. has nothing to do with your handlebar line at all, and will add a hefty price tag to your bill to buy all those cables that aren't needed.
Cheers Mr Chainsaw I'll wait for the update but I agree with you, I am only going to do the upper line now. Thanks


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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 09:09 AM
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I've already changed brake lines on four bikes with ABS. My personal bike and three others. In mine I changed both the upper and lower lines to Magnashields. On the others one was an upper and lower and the other two were just upper lines. With all four bikes we bled the lines just like you would any other brake system. Add fluid to the master cylinder while you pump the brakes and bleed them out of the bleeder valve on the calibers. We even tried a vacum pump on one of the bikes with great success. On all four bikes we had ZERO issues with air in the system, spongy feel in the lever, or the ABS light coming on.
Oh and yes the local steeler at the time told us that we couldnt bleed the brakes without their machine or we could have problems, go figure.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-12-2012, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tmd View Post
I've already changed brake lines on four bikes with ABS. My personal bike and three others. In mine I changed both the upper and lower lines to Magnashields. On the others one was an upper and lower and the other two were just upper lines. With all four bikes we bled the lines just like you would any other brake system. Add fluid to the master cylinder while you pump the brakes and bleed them out of the bleeder valve on the calibers. We even tried a vacum pump on one of the bikes with great success. On all four bikes we had ZERO issues with air in the system, spongy feel in the lever, or the ABS light coming on.
Oh and yes the local steeler at the time told us that we couldnt bleed the brakes without their machine or we could have problems, go figure.
tmd is correct, if you change the upper or lower or both, bleed them as you normally would with the bleeder screw on the brake calipers. I confirmed it with my wrench buddy here, since my simple brain is dumping info at random as of late






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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-13-2012, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmd View Post
I've already changed brake lines on four bikes with ABS. My personal bike and three others. In mine I changed both the upper and lower lines to Magnashields. On the others one was an upper and lower and the other two were just upper lines. With all four bikes we bled the lines just like you would any other brake system. Add fluid to the master cylinder while you pump the brakes and bleed them out of the bleeder valve on the calibers. We even tried a vacum pump on one of the bikes with great success. On all four bikes we had ZERO issues with air in the system, spongy feel in the lever, or the ABS light coming on.
Oh and yes the local steeler at the time told us that we couldnt bleed the brakes without their machine or we could have problems, go figure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHAINSAW View Post
tmd is correct, if you change the upper or lower or both, bleed them as you normally would with the bleeder screw on the brake calipers. I confirmed it with my wrench buddy here, since my simple brain is dumping info at random as of late
Thanks Guys for all your help,

Here’s the plan now after our discussions. I’ll buy the lines (Clutch and Upper brake) from Magnum and go to Sears buy a basic auto tool kit + mighty-vac and brake fluid to do a flush of the rear brakes and to change the Upper and clutch lines. Ride the bike for a week to monitor the brakes before heading off to Sturgis. If the ABS light comes on I will re-bleed the systems at the last resort I can always take it to the dealer.

PS What fluid is in the SERG? DOT 5 or DOT4.


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