Yaffe Monkey Bars Install wiring tip - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 09:12 PM Thread Starter
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Yaffe Monkey Bars Install wiring tip

Well after reading 100's of posts on how much of a pain on the rear the internal wiring job was on the Yaffe monkey bars I must say after I spent 2 hours on one side the other side took me 10 minutes if that

I initially tried to feed the whole factory wiring with sleeve and all using the Yaffe instructions method and that was not working so I broke down and cut the factory black sleeving off leaving around 4" on near the controls. Next I was able to slide a piece of welding rod through one end and out the other. I then used weed wacker string I had lying around and connected 4 wires at a time with electrical tape to the string and pulled them through the bars. Getting them to pass through the first bend was pretty easy the second bend at the bottom of the bars is where the problems arise. After struggling for 10 minutes I remembered there was a hole at the bottom of the bars right at the 2nd bend. Using a flashlight I could easily see the taped up bundle of wires and using a 90 degree pick was able to aid the wire bundle easily around the 2nd bend. With each bundle of 4 wires be sure to tie in another piece of string to run the next batch of cables. I then slid the factory black sleeeving all the way into the bars to give the wires some protection. If I used this method from the start I could have had both sides wired up in around 30 minutes if I had to do it again.

My 10" bars installed without any extensions or cable replacements. I did have to undo the front brake line bolt at the head and bend the steel brake line to make it long enough. I also cut the factory slot wider on the right intrument cluster panel so the brake cable sat directly behind the bar with a pair of sheet metal snips. I then re-routed the clutch cable to the other side of the crash bar and installed a loop from Lowes on the upper left instrument cluster panel torx bolt (bolt on the top of the fork). Without the loop the cable would hit the upper bolt on a full right turn then would get stuck on the bolt when returning to center. This $1 Loop for Lowes solved the issue for me.

The bars came from Harley Parts Direct for $325 delivered. The bars I received where not perfect. They had a few nicks in the chrome and I almost sent them back.


Last edited by cmacclel; 07-19-2012 at 09:28 PM.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 10:01 PM
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looks great- nice work. I am looking at the same set up. Would you recommend ordering OEM bars through Harley Direct or go with someone else? I don't want to have to deal with damaged goods.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-19-2012, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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looks great- nice work. I am looking at the same set up. Would you recommend ordering OEM bars through Harley Direct or go with someone else? I don't want to have to deal with damaged goods.
The bars where brand new from Harley Direct with sticky bubble wrap wrapped over the the corners. There was no box damage so it appears thats the way they where shipped directly from the MFG.
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-20-2012, 08:07 PM
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looks great!!! good job and great hint


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2012 HD Road Glide Ultra
Willie G chrome accessories
RineHart exhaust
LA Choppers 18" apes
progressive front lowering springs
6" FBI windscreen----freaking useless
Scrape Made MagLite mount for apes

on the wish list:
Cyclent Cycles stretched bags and rear fender
painted inner fairing
Gabriel rear air shock with compressor
21" front


powdercoating:
most engine chrome and accessories
tour pack docking
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 04:40 PM
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Just installed the 12" monkey bars myself a few weeks ago using a similar method. I removed all of the wiring sleeve less a few inches near the controls and used mechanics wire to feed the wires to the bottom hole four at a time. Then ran another wire and connected from the middle to the end set. And another tip i used palmolive dish soap and i had no problem with the wires binding up at all. After reading all the horror stories and outrageous labor charges i almost didnt buy these bars. But glad i stuck with my gut feeling.
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 04:47 PM
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pyo1.jpg] here
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 07:44 PM
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The Bars might bea a PITA to internal wire, but they sure look awesome.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-24-2012, 07:54 PM
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The Bars might bea a PITA to internal wire, but they sure look awesome.
Ditto that.

Once I make up my mind, I'm full of indecision.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 07-29-2012, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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My buddy that used regular heavy duty string to install bars on a weekly bassis used the week whacker line last set of bars he did and was amazed at how much easier it made it
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-26-2013, 03:52 PM
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I just did this job over the weekend. One side when right through. The right side was a pain. I used a thin piece of aircraft cable wrapped around the bundle of wires. I had to use that bottom hole to push and pull the wires.

I really wonder why Yaffe doesn't weld in a small piece of conduit around the corner areas. That probably wouldn't be all the hard for them to do and would make it more like pulling wires through regular bars.

Anyway, there are lots of methods which work. One issue I did have before I figured out how to pull the wires was once the wires had lube on them from prior attempts at pulling them, they were really hard to setup for another try as none of the tape would stick.

The bright side is that it done. I still have to check the wires to make sure I didn't mess something up.
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