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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Successfully bleeding ABS @ Home

I installed a set of 16" F47 bars on a 2017 FLTRXS. I know that many have suggested that you can't bleed the brakes without taking it to the dealer as the ABS light will go off resulting in the trip to the dealer.

I replaced the master cylinder and the upper and mid brake lines.

#1. Remove the master fuse

#2. Used a air operated air bleeding tool ($20 @ Amazon)

It took less than 10 minutes started to draw DOT 5.1 Fluid through the system using the bleeder tool. Once Was getting good flow I bled the brakes as per usual until I had a firm lever

ONce I locked everything down I replaced the maxi-fuse and started it up. Brakes great NO ABS light no trip to dealer

Key is to NOT turn the bike on at anytime until you have the system bled. If you do it before it is bled the ABS light will illuminate and stay on if you start with any air in the system. At this point you will need to go to the dealer even if you successfully bleed the system to clear the light
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 04:07 AM
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I read somewhere if this is not done right the LinkedIn brakes will not work correctly on top of the abs code.

Anything to that?


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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I can't say that there is not the possibility that this could happen but if you think through it the system is dumb. If you open the lines and drain the fluid and replace it (which I did replacing the DOT 4 fluid with DOT 5.1) and removing the air (simple to determine by pumping the levers and opening the caliper bleeders. When you return power to the system the ABS pump will cycle (this is when the ABS light is lit on the instrument panel). If you have removed the air the system is not going to now that anything has changed. It will operate as it did before.

The system works on a balanced principle. If it senses an imbalance it will lit the light. Imbalance can result from air, no air no imbalance...no imbalance no light.

I drove it several miles after. Works great linked system works great.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 07:48 AM
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I agree that if you don't start the bike and remove the fuse you can bleed the brakes normally. The only advantage to using the twin scan is it will A-exercise the module, and B-remove ALL the fluid.

Just researched and you can mix. Worst case is you lower the 5.1 boiling point closer to the dot 4. So I agree it should have no adverse affects. I repeat the only downside is not getting ALL the fluid replaced (small amount) and not exercising the module.

I have been looking into the Daytona twin scan tool just to be able to do this. But it is $400 and when I contacted them they kinda seemed like dicks!
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by thealien View Post
I agree that if you don't start the bike and remove the fuse you can bleed the brakes normally. The only advantage to using the twin scan is it will A-exercise the module, and B-remove ALL the fluid.

Just researched and you can mix. Worst case is you lower the 5.1 boiling point closer to the dot 4. So I agree it should have no adverse affects. I repeat the only downside is not getting ALL the fluid replaced (small amount) and not exercising the module.

I have been looking into the Daytona twin scan tool just to be able to do this. But it is $400 and when I contacted them they kinda seemed like dicks!
Customer no service department.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 10:33 AM
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Customer no service department.
Yes, cost them a sale. I don't need it I wanted it.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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I have had the same result in the past when dealing with them. It amazing that any company would not get it to the point that they will dissuade you from spending your money with them.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 01:48 PM
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Yeah... you can successfully break into the abs system with main fuse pulled and bleed as usual... I use a mityvac handheld vacuum pump.

Again.. key is to bleed system completely before applying power back to the system

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 02:50 PM
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Hell, I must just be lucky. When I installed my new bars I changed out the front master cylinder, the hydraulic clutch cable, and the front brake cable. I manually bled the brakes and clutch just using the levers (old-school style). Never got any codes, brakes and clutch work great, and ABS and linked braking still works normally.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TLKurtz View Post
Hell, I must just be lucky. When I installed my new bars I changed out the front master cylinder, the hydraulic clutch cable, and the front brake cable. I manually bled the brakes and clutch just using the levers (old-school style). Never got any codes, brakes and clutch work great, and ABS and linked braking still works normally.

I think the message is that despite all the doom and gloom warning (primarily from the dealer) it can be done successfully if you take your time and ensure your getting no air sputtering from the calipers before you turn on the ignition.
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