Wired new bars, now no starter! HELP - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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Question Wired new bars, now no starter! HELP

All,

I spent the last couple weekends working on wiring my new 14" outlawz. I got everything together, buttoned up and started the bike - no throttle. *Disappointed*

I followed Donk's post about potential culprits there. Pulled the right side enough to check green connector -sure enough it had pulled out. I repaired that connection, used heat shrink to keep it together -pulled wires back into place, reinstalled on bike. Put everything together save the outer fairing (just in case) ... and yes I tried this with and without headlights hooked up ... click over to ignition, Lights, Radio come on. Switch to the run position on the run/off switch and I hear the fuel pump prime the engine. Hit the starter button and NADA. No effort, no clicking, no lights dimming...nothing.
*Further disappointed*

Anyone know how to verify if the starter relay is good? I always work with the main fuse out whenever doing anything remotely electrical. I'll check all the fuses to make sure they've got continuity. Other than that, I'm back to checking continuity on all wires. Any other suggestions??? I'm hoping I missed something stupid - it's going to be 70+ in NY today ... I really don't want to be in the garage!

Cheers,
G

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Fuses check out. It's not that.

If I turn to ignition with run/off switch in off position, lights come on and radio comes on. ABS light blinks as usual. Once I flip the switch to run position, fuel pump activates. I get the normal engine light in addition to the ABS light blinking. Everything acts normal until I hit the starter and nothing happens.

Still hunting for the issue...

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 09:25 AM
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Try to see if something on that same side is not working. Maybe you put the connectors in the wrong slot or soldered two wires wrong. Only a guess at this point.

2009 Hot Red Sunglo, 107 build, S&S 551 cams, heads polished and ported, Vance & Hines Dresser Duals, Vance and Hines 4" rounds, REVOLUTION PERFORMANCE ems, Bad Seed bars, J&M amp and rokkers speakers, Sony DSX-S310, progressive 940's
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I thought about that. Everything else on that side works that I can tell...turn signal, run/off switch, radio select. Can't verify cruise, though. Tearing the switch housing apart now to verify connectivity to pins at the connector. We'll see. I'm not even sure what I'm hoping for now. LOL

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 09:36 AM
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Check the wires on the plug from that side, may have pushed back in the connector if they didn't snap into place.

2015 RGU CVO........under continuous change......
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdkkart View Post
Check the wires on the plug from that side, may have pushed back in the connector if they didn't snap into place.
Pins are good - right where they ought to be.

BTW - what part of central Iowa? I was just out in Ames and Newton a week ago.

Cheers,
G

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone know how to access wires on these sealed connectors? I've got the switch housing apart and top off of the switch...looks like the whole thing is sealed. I guess that's a good thing when it's all working - weatherproof and all, but what about diagnostics? I can strip some insulation off the wire behind the switch, but that seems a bit precarious.

Thanks for the suggestions guys...keep 'em coming...all ideas welcome.

Cheers,
G

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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OK - I got smart. I figured I'd check to see if I had a short to the bars instead of unseating pins or removing insulation. Sure enough - one of the two starter switch wires is partially shorted to the bars. I guess we know what that means. I get to pull the bars ... again ... and pull the wires ... again. The good news is I keep getting better and better at it. The bad news is ... I've done it enough to get better at it.

I'll keep y'all posted with results later.

Cheers,
G

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 07:23 PM Thread Starter
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OK...not as expected.

I pulled the bars again and started looking at all of my extensions when trying to sort out the issue with the starter. I found that somehow one of my extensions came apart (pin to pin connection inside shrink wrap!) I fixed that, double checked what else I could, spent the time to get it all wrapped up but the outer fairing. Turned the ignition on, run switch to run...hit the ignition...and WHAMO - she fired right up.

NOW...you'd think I'd be happy. However, she fired up and went straight to max throttle with hands off the throttle. I shut her down quick, checked the throttle...still at zero. NOW what? I was completely befuddled. Clearly the wires to the connectors on the right side are fine. TBW seems to be the problem? I checked to see if I had any continuity across any pins on the TBW - NADA. Here we go again - I pulled the bars down again. Checked everything I could outside the bars. 100% fine. I tapped into one of the TBW lines with a pin and tried find connectivity to the end connector. Nothing. Pulled cables out far enough to get to the "Green connector". Checked connectivity between pins in the green connector to the end connector - all 6 continuous, no cross talk. Problem is NOT in the bar. Start reading across the TBW end and find discrete resistance values (640 Ohms across red/black lines on each side and 170 Ohms between the red/white, I think). Odd part is...when I put the green TBW connector together...I get nothing down on the end connector. How in the heck does that happen???

I pulled the pins and sockets out of both ends of the green TBW connector, put the appropriate pins together ... now I get the same readings at the end connector as I did from the socket end Green connector. Apparently the connector wasn't making connection. Must've been from pulling through the bars. I should have listened to Donk and others that said to get rid of that connector. Now, my only decision is to use the pins and sockets or cut them off and hard wire. Any recommendations?

Cheers,
G

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
Those white lines are just Road Chum ... and my Shark is HUNGRY!

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 04-28-2013, 07:40 PM
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I used the pin and socket method on my install. I put the extensions in the deutch connector, pulled the wires thru the bars then connected the extensions to the wires. That way there is no way to pull them apart when pulling the wires and it makes wiring up the deutch connector very easy.

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