Ape install bleeding abs delema. - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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Ape install bleeding abs delema.

I'm done with the install besides clutch and brake line. Clutch is no problem just ran out if time. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to bleed the abs line I installed. I really don't wanna pull threw the front brakes if I don't have to. Aloe of air I would be introducing threw the system. Any info would be awesome trying to get out of a trip to the stealer.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quick pic don't mind the mess
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 08:31 PM
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I bleed mine like you do a car.. No problems so far..


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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 08:41 PM Thread Starter
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I bleed mine like you do a car.. No problems so far..


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What line did you change? I can't get any fluid to come out of the reservoir.
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 08:41 PM
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I'm done with the install besides clutch and brake line. Clutch is no problem just ran out if time. But I can't for the life of me figure out how to bleed the abs line I installed. I really don't wanna pull threw the front brakes if I don't have to. Aloe of air I would be introducing threw the system. Any info would be awesome trying to get out of a trip to the stealer.
I replaced my lines when I put on taller bars. Bled them through to the front calipers. No issues, no codes. Wasn't that bad. Pain in the butt without a second pair of hands or vacuum line, but not hard. Just do it and you'll be done before you find an alternate method.

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G

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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 08:48 PM
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I used a mity vac to draw the fluid up

going from caliper up, back to the master cylinder, one side at a time

because of the Y, and new pads, there was a little adjustment, but only had to bleed them once

also, don't remove the screws completely from the master cylinder cover, it messes up the gasket, or overfill

or have a bandana ready

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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 09:04 PM
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I mounted my new bars then clamped my old bars on a portable workbench next to the bike on the right with the master cylinder on the right side of the bar at a higher level than the ABS unit, mounted the extended brake line to it after routing it under the tank to the ABS unit , then hung the ABS end over the side of the frame with the end in a jar of brake fluid, then filled the reservoir and pumped fluid up through the line until there were no bubbles. Once the line was filled I made sure the ABS unit was topped off and connected the line then bled it through the right caliper after mounting the brake cylinder on the new bar. Nice solid brakes with no ABS problems right out of the gate. Sounds more complicated in writing than in practice.

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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-11-2013, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I mounted my new bars then clamped my old bars on a portable workbench next to the bike on the right with the master cylinder on the right side of the bar at a higher level than the ABS unit, mounted the extended brake line to it after routing it under the tank to the ABS unit , then hung the ABS end over the side of the frame with the end in a jar of brake fluid, then filled the reservoir and pumped fluid up through the line until there were no bubbles. Once the line was filled I made sure the ABS unit was topped off and connected the line then bled it through the right caliper after mounting the brake cylinder on the new bar. Nice solid brakes with no ABS problems right out of the gate. Sounds more complicated in writing than in practice.
I can't get the line that I ran to the abs block to stop leaking. I didn't receive any new copper washers with the kit so I'm hoping so new ones will stop the leaking. Drag specialties lines known for leaking??
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-12-2013, 05:09 AM
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Unless the leak is where the line is crimped to the banjo the line itself is probably not bad. IMHO new washers are a must. Make sure the mating surfaces are smooth so that they seal when the copper crushes and make sure the banjo naturally falls where you want it, there should be no need to twist it or bend it much to make it line up. If you tighten the banjo bolt down snug and slightly rotate it it may help it bed before finally torquing to spec, but that really shouldn't be necessary if all surfaces are defect free. Do not over tighten thinking more is better. Hope this helps.

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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 06-12-2013, 05:58 AM
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I did reverse bleed... injected brake fluid thru caliper.

'11 Road Glide Ultra
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