Handlebar Install ??'s - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Handlebar Install ??'s

I know it might be personal preference, but this really isn't addressed in all of the youtube videos that I've watched up to this point. For those of you that have changed out your bars, are you torquing all of the bolts to spec and applying any loc-tite or are you simply tightening the bolts by hand, making sure you don't He-man the bolts?

I know I need to pick up a service manual here at some point, but can anyone supply the torque specs they use for the riser bolts and the controls/levers?

It's currently -23 out, so I will NOT be making it out to throw these bars on today, however it's suppose to be back in the 50's - 60's by the weekend, so I'm looking to get this lined out for a quick install and get some photos for you all!!


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 10:11 AM
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Torqued to specs.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 10:29 AM
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I always torque bars to spec, and not with a harbor freight POS wrench either, a good name brand , of for me Snap on because I use them at work, I torque everything , don't take chances not on two wheels. There's a reason for these specs. I loctite alot of fastners but never did the handlebars.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 10:41 AM
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Torque the top clamp bolts to spec and in the correct sequence. So they hold, you don't round out the head, and you don't snap a fastener. I've never put lock tight on them either. Oh and I use a "harbor freight POS wrench". I use them for everything. Never had an issue with them.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Anyone want to share the sequence of torquing the clamp down and what ft. lbs. of torque to use? From what I can find, it should be done in a criss-cross pattern and around 20 lbs of torque?

Man, there should really be a sticky post for this with the popularity growing on DYI handlebar projects!!


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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 11:25 AM
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I can't remember off the top of my head. But I can tell you when I get home. But I think it's done in two steps and you do the top two first then the bottom two, then the top two to final torque, and then the bottom two. Like I said I think that's what it is but don't quote me on it.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 12:16 PM
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I just tighten mine, and I've never had an issue.


I snug the fronts first and then tighten the back two (leftover habit from my Jap days).
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 12:27 PM
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I'm not in front of my manual right now but it should be to tighten the top bolts until the front of the top clamp touches the bottom clamp, then torque the bottom bolts to 20 ft/lbs then back to the top bolts for 20 ft/lbs. Don't quote me as I'm going off memory. I'll recheck later when I look in my manual to correct any of my mistakes.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 01:45 PM
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Glad it works for you, my buddy snapped off bolts on his scoot after using a harbor freight torque wrench I told him to spend a little more and invest in better tools, I can't see paying close to 20k for a Harley and using a sub- par cheap tool on it, just my opinion. But after 30yrs of being a Automotive tech and also wrenching on motorcycles I think I speak with knowledge.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 01:50 PM
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When I tightened mine I did a criss cross pattern, I torqued them evenlly, I know the manual tells you to tighten the top till they touch, but as advice from by a tech at my locks Indy shop I did both sides even.
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