Hints and tips replacing Clutch and MC to ABS lines - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 07:05 PM Thread Starter
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Hints and tips replacing Clutch and MC to ABS lines

Hey, I have to move up to 16" bars, so I will need to run longer hyd lines.

Bought +4 Magnum Chromite II and notice that OEM front brake MC line to ABS looks like one piece, Magnum is 2 piece, joining in dash area. (Im only replacing Master to ABS hopefully avoiding Harley DT bleed)

Do I need to remove gas tank to run brake line?

Would it make sense to replace lines with current 14" bars still in place and then they would be ready when 16s arrive, simplifying that install?

Someone out there has done this and knows what can go wrong.
'18 RGU 16" KST 1.5 in Vanguard Spearhead replacing 14" KST Straightjackets(that will be available for sale, less than 1k on them)

Thanks

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 07:26 PM
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It's going to be easier with the tank off and you will have to get the brakes bled the Harley way unfortunately. I haven't installed a ton of extended length lines but none of the ones I've used were two pieces. They were the length to go from one component to the next. Just my $.02 experience.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 03:12 PM
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Yes, you need to remove the tank. Once you do you'll understand.

There is a rubber/plastic bracket on the right hand side of the bike (under the tank) that keeps all three of the front hydraulic brake lines properly routed and safe from damage. The Magnum front brake line is two piece. I'm assuming they make them that way so that it's easier to change the length of the upper line in the future (if ever needed) without having to reinstall the whole length of hydraulic line clear to the ABS module.

You can perform a road safe bleed in the garage, but you'll still need to take the bike to Harley to have them do a final DT bleed procedure on the ABS system.


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by wevsspot View Post
Yes, you need to remove the tank. Once you do you'll understand.

There is a rubber/plastic bracket on the right hand side of the bike (under the tank) that keeps all three of the front hydraulic brake lines properly routed and safe from damage. The Magnum front brake line is two piece. I'm assuming they make them that way so that it's easier to change the length of the upper line in the future (if ever needed) without having to reinstall the whole length of hydraulic line clear to the ABS module.

You can perform a road safe bleed in the garage, but you'll still need to take the bike to Harley to have them do a final DT bleed procedure on the ABS system.
I kinda figured I would be removing the tank, thanks for the confirmation. And makes sense about the 2 piece Magnum.

Also, glad to hear you say its 'road safe' to ride in for the ABS bleed. I have an indy shop a couple miles away that said 'dont worry about it, just ride it in and we will DT it for $50" The 'dont worry about it" was a bit fuzzy to me.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:10 AM
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I rode mine a good 50 miles before getting it to the dealer for the brake line bleed. I did use a hydraulic bleeder though. If you're still worried you can always reverse bleed and force the fluid back up to the reservoir.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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I rode mine a good 50 miles before getting it to the dealer for the brake line bleed. I did use a hydraulic bleeder though. If you're still worried you can always reverse bleed and force the fluid back up to the reservoir.
Cool. And yes I will reverse bleed. I am a true believer of that method after I struggled doing my AIM clutch slave job until I bought a syringe.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 03:20 PM
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Cool. And yes I will reverse bleed. I am a true believer of that method after I struggled doing my AIM clutch slave job until I bought a syringe.
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How are you liking the AIM secondary clutch actuator? I've been thinking about going that route instead of the Harley recall.


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 03:39 PM
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I ended up installing the factory 47 14inch bars for that reason. I'm 6'4 and they are plenty tall enough for me and look super badass.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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How are you liking the AIM secondary clutch actuator? I've been thinking about going that route instead of the Harley recall.
The AIM is fantastic. It does reduce the force required to pull, but the big thing is the 'friction' zone is bigger, feels more like a good old fashion cable clutch. With the OEM I was having trouble getting my shifts really smooth (something I always prided myself in LOL) because it seemed to be either engaged or not, and if I shifted at the wrong instant, clunk. Problem no more.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up installing the factory 47 14inch bars for that reason. I'm 6'4 and they are plenty tall enough for me and look super badass.
Yep the 47 bars are good lookin. I went with Kst 14" straightjackets first hoping to avoid all this work but my arms aren't long enough to be comfortable at the height I like with 14s. (If rolled up to height, I have to stretch h to reach them) I also needed different wrist angle. So I'm doing this one more time, with the Kst vanguard I know I can get the wrist angle right and maybe 14s would do, but when KST said they would make 16s for me I figured, go for it. I know I will cuss my decision while doing the work, but I also know I will like it when done. And be proud that I fought through it. Wish me luck, bars should be coming soon.

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