Trying not to take the fairing off to do handlebar - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Trying not to take the fairing off to do handlebar

Hello All,

I just picked up a '10 Scarlet Red. Like most of you, I am not happy with the bar placement. I am sure I have missed a lot of steps, so please feel free to make corrections or improvements.

Please let me know if this will work:
1) Cover tank with towel
2) Disconnect battery
2) Remove nacelle and ignition housing
3) Remove bars
4) Cut internal wiring harness at base of handlebars, and the outside wiring harness.
5) I have heard of using ceiling fan pull chain, since it has some weight and will naturally fall to the bottom of the bars. Thread that 1st through the switch housing, then tape staggered wire sections so that its not one fat end going in.
6) Solder and heat shrink wires at both ends
7) Reinstall everything.

I am not sure if the TBW wire harness can be cut and soldered, is there a kit that is sold for that?

Just trying to avoid removing the fairing.

This forum has been the best info and tech savvy off all the RG forums I've visited.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 09:41 PM
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Taking the fairing off is easier then cutting and splicing your wires, and I can write out every step if your up for trying it. Its really not that bad, just intimidating at first.
As for your question, yes you can cut and slice the TBW wires, and Namz sells extension kits for them. However, there is no need for cutting or extending any of the stock wires, your good for at least 15" apes. There is so much extra of everything under your fairing you could probably run 18" apes before you need wire extentions, at least with the 2010 bikes. The brake lines and clutch lines are good for 15" though.

So if your up for taking your fairing off, let me know and I can write it out here for you. I've taken mine off about a dozen times now, and even taken a couple of buddies off to show them the tricks.






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'If I live, I will kill you. If I die, You are forgiven.'
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Definitely, Chainsaw. Just need some clarification about wiring. I am fine leaving the outside wire harness, outside. Does the hidden wire harness, for DBW and hand switches unclip somewhere so it can be feed through the bars? I am sure that this will be referenced by many on the forum.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-19-2010, 11:56 PM
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Chainsaw is right. Take your outer fairing off rather than cutting and splicing wires. Since no extensions are necessary, you don't have to worry about soldering coming apart. It is not difficult to take the connectors off and reinstall them so you can internally wire the bars. All you need is a paper clip and once you get the hang of releasing the wire from the connector, you got it made. Make sure you take photos or draw yourself a picture so you replace the color coded wires back where they belong. I used shoe strings to pull the wires. You can remove the factory wire cover and use shrink tubing so the wires are in a more compact bundle and go through the bars easier. Cut the factory wire cover about 3 or 4 inches from the switch housing and remove all below it. Cut a piece of shrink tubing that leaves about 4 inches of the wires exposed at the bottom. Fold the factory cover and slide the shrink tube over it before you shrink it. Use shrink tubing over the ends of the wires and create a tongue on the end that you can fold over and cut a slit to put the shoe string through. You can use silicone spray and the wires slide through pretty easy. I attached a photo so you can see how the shrink tube and shoestring attached to the wires for pulling. You can also see how compact the wires are when you shrink the entire length. Hope this helps. If you need, I should be able to take photos and document the removal of the connectors. Hope this helps.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 12:30 AM
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No way would I cut any wiring. Take the fairing off. Don't need to disconnect battery. Take out the master fuse under left side cover. The one that says 40 on it. Easier than disconnecting the battery.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 06:38 AM
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If ya need a color code for unhooking your douch connectors,... I've got it all in directions Yaffe sent me for hooking up my Apes. I'll send it to ya. PM me!You have to be willing to take your fairing off. Each one of those wires are numbered on those connectors. I've got what color goes in what number in these directions. These directions are GREAT!,... and a must for internaly wiring.Chainsaw,...or anybody else, if you guys want these PM me with your email address and I'll send them. Its like,... 8 pages long.

Last edited by Neano62; 04-20-2010 at 06:42 AM.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 09:15 AM
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Just another reason why i love this board. YOu guys are great and always willing to help.


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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 04:55 PM
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Okay,.. here goes, trying to work from memory.
How to take your fairing off, and reinstall.
Before you do anything, cover your front fender with a towel. Also cover your tank if your going to be taking off your handlebars.. You may also want to take some pictures of how the inner and outer fairing matches up on the sides for reference.

Step 1)
Take out the 6 screws you can see on the inner fairing, while sitting on the bike. There are 3 on either side, and the very bottom one's are longer then the others (remember that, so when you reinstall you put them back on bottom) These screws are a torx 25 if memory serves. Don't worry, your fairing is still attached and it won't fall off when you remove all 6 screws.

Step 2)
Take off your windshield. I also pull out the wellnuts, as it makes it easier to install later.

Step 3)
Grab a 1/2" end wrench. Down on the inside you will see 2 acorn nuts, opposite your turn signals. I found its best to turn the front wheel, facing whatever side you are on. Just gives you more room that way. Once you take off the nuts, grab the washers as well because they may be a pain to find if they hit the ground. Now just pull your turn lamps straight out away from the fairing and let them hang by the wires. Again, don't worry, your fairing is still hanging by itself.

Step 4)
Strattle your front tire, and pick up on the outer fairing on either side, right above where the turnsignals were at before you took them off. Lift up on the fairing, and it may take a little wiggling, but it should come off without much hassle. Pull it away, and with a free hand reach down and unplug your headlights. Now set your outer fairing out of the way for now.


Thats how to take it off... in your case you would then take off all of your controls, take off the gauge bezel and unclamp the handlebars to do your swap.


Now to reinstall

Step 1)
Go to your outer fairing. Take off your headlight bezel. I don't know how the older bikes come apart, but the 2010s have 4 clips, 1 on each corner (top and bottom) that just snap off. You need it out of the way, to take out your headlights. On the inside of the fairing, you will see 3 green "pinchy" type things,.. 1 on top, 2 on bottom. What those are what attach your headlights to the fairing. Pinch them to release the entire headlamp assembly away from your outer fairing. You need the headlights out of the way, to see the brackets on the inside to hang the fairing on.

Step 2)
Walk back up, with outer fairing in hand to your bike,.. strattleing the front tire again. I get the top tabs, across the top of the fairing in first. While still holding the fairing, look down through the headlight holes. You will see 2 metal brackets sticking out,.. your outer fairing hangs on those. Set it down on them, and sometimes you gotta push a little hard to seat it.

Step 3)
On either side, check and make sure the the outer fairing is flush with the inner. If not,.. there are some little tabs that you must make work for you. Once you see them, it will make sense. The outer fairing tabs, must fit behind the inner fairing tabs. Its what keeps the fairing from flopping around in the wind. You may have to do some real pushing and pulling to make them all slip in behind, but don't worry, you won't break anything. I know this sounds confusing, but it will make sense when your in there. If nothing else, pull out those pics you took earlier for reference.

Step 4)
Reinstall your turn signals. These are easy, just remember to tuck your wires into the fairing, and the fairing is notched to allow the wires to not be clamped down. Also before you tighten them down,.. make sure they are facing the same way... I mean not all the way up on one side, and all the way down on the other. I try to make both of mine face forward, in the middle of the adjustment... just looks nicer that way. Nothing I hate more, then cock-eyed turn signals... haha

Step 5)
Reinstall the 6 torx screws that go through the inner fairing.. remember the longest on bottom,. the other 4 are all the same.

Step 6)
Your windshield.... I have found a way to never lose a wellnut inside the fairing. Works for me,.. hope it does for you. Take your windshield while its off the bike. Put a screw through the hole of the windshield. Now take a wellnut, and run it up on the screw until it just touches the windshield. You don't want it tight, or it will be to fat to fit back through the holes in your fairing. Do this to all of the screws. Put the middle wellnut into its hole first,.. then work out to the others. When you tighten, start in the middle. When you screw it in, kinda bounce your screwdriver a little,.. not to hard though. This will make the rubber in the wellnut expand more, and less likely to have to tighten your shield down a couple of days later.

Step 7)
Now just incase you somehow dropped a wellnut inside the fairing,.. fetch it. If not, reinstall your headlights. Just push them into their holes until you hear the click of the little green pinchy deals. Then reinstall your headlight bezel.



I think thats about it. I hope it wasn't to confusing,.. and I know pictures would be nice to have.
If I missed anything from those of you that know how to do it as well,.. please point it out. I don't want to leave something out, that he hates me for later.. haha






For a wounded man shall say to his assailant,
'If I live, I will kill you. If I die, You are forgiven.'
Such is the rule of honor.


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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 05:14 PM
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Great info thanks Chainsaw.


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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 04-20-2010, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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That is excellent, thats for also mentioning tools needed.
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