Are you powder coating the pushrod tubes and the lifter blocks? With the pushrod tube you need a screwdriver to remove and install them and you would probably damage the paint.
You can do it without removing the rocker box covers by just finding the base circle on the cams and shortening the pushrods and removing the lifter blocks at the same time, some pushrods will have a problem clearing the lifter block and sense you are removing them anyways it will make it easier to do it at the same time.
Or you can do it according to the manual but you can take a few shortcuts. If you remove the rocker box covers and pull the pushrods out from the top you can mark each pushrod so you can install them back in the same place, this way you do not have to adjust the pushrods when doing the install.
The front cylinder is easier than the back so I will describe doing the back cylinder. After the rocker box cover is off all you will need to do is remove the 2 breather bolts and loosen the 4 rocker bolts completely, then you can lift the rocker assembly up and roll the rockers a 1/4 turn. Doing this will expose the top of the pushrods and then you just pull the pushrods out.
On the front cylinder you can just lift the rocker assembly out then remove the pushrods but on the rear cylinder it is easier to just roll the rockers.
When putting it back together just drop the correct pushrod in the right place and tighten the rocker bolts a little bit at a time giving the lifters time to compress, then tighten the breather bolts.
Take the air cleaner and back plate off. Pop off the push rod cover tensioner with a flat blade screwdriver. Youll see the bump out on it where you can pry it off. I use a paperclip and a rubber band to hold the lower pushrod cover up out of the way. Use two 1/2" open end wrench's and loosen the locknut from the upper portion of the pushrod.
It's a slow tedious process turning the lower portion up into the upper portion of the pushrod to shorten it while at the same time turning the lock nut down a little at a time, but it's not that bad. There should be locktite on the threads which makes disassembly a little worse than assembly. If you see an chunks of locktite remove them as you go so they don't drop on your tappets.
The tappet covers remove very easy with 4 Allen screws each. Once you remove the screws give a light tap with a rubber hammer and they should pop loose from the gasket. A couple of the screws are difficult to get to with the torque wrench when you reinstall. I just tighten them with a Allen wrench by feel.
Ironmarks suggestion is a good way to go as well especially if you have not powder coated the rocker covers and want to. He is correct that the pushrod tubes will likely get some paint damage on reinstall in one spot. I've removed and reinstalled the pushrods so many times it's a lot less work for me than removing the rocker covers.
IF your removing the rockers and rocker boxes then just pull the pushrods out from the top.
Another thing is you dont need put the bike in 6th gear and rotate the rear wheel to find the base circles on the cams. Just pull the spark plugs and with the rocker covers off you can just bump the starter and you can see if the pushrods are up or down.
I read one of the steps was to spin the rear wheel to get TDC. Thx. The only problem is that I have the control harness disconnected, so I will have to find another way to start it.
I am curious as to why you have the control harness disconnected? To do what you're describing you only need to unhook the fuel tank wires and the TCA plug behind the air cleaner, I never pulled the main fuse or unhook the battery to do this job. You will get DTCs when you turn on the ignition to bump the starter but you can just clear them when everything is back together.
Don't use the starter to rotate the engine, especially when you go to put it back together.
If you're removing the rocker covers, remove the pushrods intact by loosening the rocker supports as discussed in the service manual, alternating and slowly while the engine is at TDC.
I think HD sells a pushrod clip tool made of delrin which wouldn't scratch things during install.
A tip when removing the clips, use as wide a screwdriver that fits into the tab. With one hand grab the floating ring, pull it down as much as you can, then gently twist the clip out (at the bottom).
hullhorr - i think locktite on adjustables is an exception case. I've never used it and never seen it used. Seen it recommended, but I wouldn't do it.
perhaps, but the instructions with mine said to use it so I followed the instructions. Just a small dab of the red paste on the threads before tightening the lock nut.
Shit, just looked out the basement window and it's freakin SNOWING again.
Why not bump the starter to rotate the engine? I use it all the time with absolutely no issues you just have to pull the spark plugs first, I have even started and run my engine for a few minutes with the rocker covers off . I just grab the top of the push rods with my fingers and pull them I never used a special tool you just need to free up and collapse the pushrod tubes so they move and the pushrods come right out of the top. I am sure there is some technical reason not to do it the way I am doing it but I never had a problem. If you're more comfortable doing it by hand then by all means that should be the way for you to do it.
I may have missed it but when you reinstall either the front or rear set of pushrods,once the rocker arm base is bolted down ,wait untill you can spin the push rods by finger before turn engine over to do the other set.
ironmark - One reason not to use the starter to bump the motor over is the chance that you made a mistake while adjusting, or a lifter isnt' fully bled down. Rather bump a piston into the valve while i'm gentle turning the engine vs slam it with the starter.
I agree it shouldn't be a problem if all is fine. But most folks do not use the starter. In fact if you're diligent you have the battery disconnected for safety reasons.... but each to his own.
hullhorr - I hear ya about the instructions, I've just never used it, and can't really see a reason to change. 99% of the time the threads are oily as hell anyway. Plus I wouldnt want the little crunchy bits getting into a lifter by accident. Bummer about the snow. We're finally getting a little rain, emphasis on little...
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