Solid or Adjustable Pushrods? - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Solid or Adjustable Pushrods?

I will have the Screaming Eagle hydrolic cam tensioner plate installed in my 2006 next week. Should I stick with solid pushrods or have adjustable pushrods installed? Does anyone with a pre-2007 FLT have experience with the hydrolic cam tensioner plate and push rod conversion?

2006 Road Glide Black Pearl, Screaming Eagle Stage 2 95" Big Bore Kit, Detachable Tour Pak, Klock Werks 8" , Wind Vest 13" , Madstad 14.5"
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 03:23 PM
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adjustable pushrods, don't they come with it? You getting the oilpump and all
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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No. The cam plate does not come with adjustable push rods. It does come with the new oil pump, tensioners, and a chain. I have also purchased the cam kit which includes bearings and gaskets, a shim kit and a drive gear retention kit.

2006 Road Glide Black Pearl, Screaming Eagle Stage 2 95" Big Bore Kit, Detachable Tour Pak, Klock Werks 8" , Wind Vest 13" , Madstad 14.5"
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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I am kind of interested in finding out if the original owner installed adjustable push rods when the 95" big bore kit was installed. Is it easy to move the push rod tubes to check the push rods?

2006 Road Glide Black Pearl, Screaming Eagle Stage 2 95" Big Bore Kit, Detachable Tour Pak, Klock Werks 8" , Wind Vest 13" , Madstad 14.5"
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 04:16 PM
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I prefer the stockers, depending on the cams you have.

Don't forget the tune.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 04:35 PM
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Id get adjustable so if you go to swap out cams you don't have to remove the heads. But, if you would rather save the $100 then do the extra labor.

It seems that price wise it would be pretty close to the same either way as it will cost more labor to remove the heads than to cut out stock push rods and put in adjustable. Doing it myself adjustables for sure.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 04:37 PM
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The heads don't have to come off, remove the tank, upper rocker box and rockers..
Piece of cake..

Don't forget the tune.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 04:58 PM
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+HogPro, that's what they make boltcutters for
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by grambo View Post
I will have the Screaming Eagle hydrolic cam tensioner plate installed in my 2006 next week. Should I stick with solid pushrods or have adjustable pushrods installed? Does anyone with a pre-2007 FLT have experience with the hydrolic cam tensioner plate and push rod conversion?
I did the screaming eagle cam plate with hyd tenisoners,plus upgraded oil pump on my 01 RG,was very straight forward conversion,i would run the adj push rods,if at any time you want to do a cam swap it makes it a little simpler to do.IMO,had better oil pressure at idle while hot after doing the conversion.

2012 RG Vivid Black,contrast Anarchy wheels,SE air cleaner,cobra tuner,Thunderheader ,diamond cut heads and clys,Fueling Reaper 574 cams,this is just a starting point.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-23-2014, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Great advice. I was reading on one of the other forums that some folks had probs with the adjustables; the lock nuts vibrating loose or even breaking in half. Have you adjustable p.r. been reliable?

2006 Road Glide Black Pearl, Screaming Eagle Stage 2 95" Big Bore Kit, Detachable Tour Pak, Klock Werks 8" , Wind Vest 13" , Madstad 14.5"
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