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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-27-2014, 11:27 PM Thread Starter
Hangaround
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Kansas
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Riddle me this

Ok, so my second trip to the dealer for warranty work, on the same 2 issues has me questioning parts quality. I'm on my second new style compensator, in the cam chest for valve train rattle, again, clutch basket wore out, and trans output shaft bearing is shot. Bike is a '13 with 18k miles on it.

I don't trust the auto tensioner isn't causing these problems, so what are the options? Replace tensioner? Replace compensator with gear? Or go belt drive and fix both issues? I've only got about 9 months of warranty left, so It needs fixed permanently, or she'll be gone when the warranty is up. Can't afford 3K+ in repairs every six months!

Thanks!




Mike

2013 RGU
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 12:18 AM
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I can't directly answer your question, but I find it odd that some folks have multiple compensator issues and others have none. Like you said, it makes you wonder what other factor is really causing it.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 02:09 AM
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It probably wouldn't hurt to change out the automatic chain adjuster for a manual one while you are in there.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 06:17 AM
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Baker offers those.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 07:23 AM
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I have used the baker and the Hayden M6.

I also have eliminated the compensator with a Vulcanworks solid sprocket.

I am a fan of the solid sprocket after seven comensators in two bikes during a 95000 period in a matter of three years.

I will never need another compensator replaced.

I snapped the baker manual in two pieces but this experience is isolated.

So far I'm good with the Hayden.

HD has to build bike for the masses and make a profit ~

The purpose of the compensator is to save the anemic crank form lugging and shock loading... Just my .02.

I do not lug, and preload in fun mode so the solid sprocket works for me.

S&S recommends not running any vtwin below 2700 rpm's.

I ride at cruise at about 3000.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys! I had 2 different guys tell me to leave the stock tensioner. One said Baker would be noisier. Said I was fine with that if it would save the rest of the primary! I had a Hayden in for awhile. About 9k on it, the chain was making a zinging sound. Found the shoe wore clear into the rollers. Yup, that'll make it zing! Like the concept, but they need to make a better shoe. I've got an idea for a winter project though. So, if a guy uses the Vulcan sprocket, do I need to put in a better crank to accommodate? Thanks again guys!




Mike

2013 RGU
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie View Post
Thanks guys! I had 2 different guys tell me to leave the stock tensioner. One said Baker would be noisier. Said I was fine with that if it would save the rest of the primary! I had a Hayden in for awhile. About 9k on it, the chain was making a zinging sound. Found the shoe wore clear into the rollers. Yup, that'll make it zing! Like the concept, but they need to make a better shoe. I've got an idea for a winter project though. So, if a guy uses the Vulcan sprocket, do I need to put in a better crank to accommodate? Thanks again guys!




Mike
If the tensioner block on the M6 wore down to the rollers on the primary chain what is the big deal!
Once the rollers hit the tensioner block it won't go any farther, the sides of the chain are narrow and should cut into the tensioner block until it hits the wider rollers. Now you have a track for the primary chain to stay in. JMO

I would suggest the HD ESP.


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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 11:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmark View Post
If the tensioner block on the M6 wore down to the rollers on the primary chain what is the big deal!
Once the rollers hit the tensioner block it won't go any farther, the sides of the chain are narrow and should cut into the tensioner block until it hits the wider rollers. Now you have a track for the primary chain to stay in. JMO

I would suggest the HD ESP.
It's a big deal, because the chain makes a tremendous amount of noise. I've have my stock cam chain tensioners, and they hardly even have a mark on them after 18K miles. My stock tensioner has 9K miles on it, it's scuffed, but no where near wore out. The Hayden shoe lasted less than 9K miles and was shot, I'd say that's a problem.

Picked the scoot up today. 32 days in purgatory.......AAAAGGGGHHHH! BTW, dealer said the new style compensators are on national backorder. I got lucky, dealer called in a favor. Now to ride it and see how she's doing!




Mike

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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-28-2014, 11:52 PM
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I have the Hayden tensioner and if I remember correctly it does say that it supposed to wear down to the rollers of the chain

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