S&S 124LC swap - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2014, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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S&S 124LC swap

In about to pull the trigger on a S&S 124LC for my 2013 road glide. Other than the 58mm throttle body,5.3g injectors,clutch and oil lines should I do stuff to the trans and primary to hold up to the extra torque and hp.

I was told that I should replace the following with Baker drivetrain parts

Baker attitude adjuster for the primary

Baker heavy duty throw out bearing

Baker Street door

Baker high torque inner primary bearing


What clutch should I run. I was told that evolution industries diamond terminator. I have never heard of this clutch. Is it any good?

I want a dependable touring bike. I don't want stuff to break so I want to build it once the right way.

If there is anything that I'm missing please let me know.

Thanks
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2014, 04:59 PM
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The 124 sounds nice. The only thing you mention that I have is the Baker adjuster. I do like mine. The only downside is you need to remove the primary cover to check the adjustment.

You will be able to easily check the primary bearing and race with the inner primary cover removed when you swap the motor. If there is no wear I wouldn't bother replacing it.

I really like my Rivera Primo clutch. I am not familiar with the Evo Industries one.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2014, 07:45 PM
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Variable pressure clutch set up from AIM will handle whatever you throw at it.

2013 FLTRX , 107", 10.5 comp, T-Man 625 Cam, SE 110 Hillside Heads, 58mm S&S Throttle Hog, VP92, 2-1 Patriot SS Exh. PV, SE Heavy Breather, Madstad, 944's , Detach Tour Pac, Sirius Radio
2015 FXDL 2nd best HD on road
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2014, 08:56 PM
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It depends on how you want to ride it, you said touring so i assume you dont plan on racing or doing burnouts etc. you will need a good tuner other than that you should be good to go. Im running the hc 124 in my bike with just a barnett extra plate cluth and just a hpi 51mm throttlebody with 5.3 injectors
and it laid down 134/139 on the dyno with no clutch slip. Also a good exhaust is a must.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-04-2014, 09:47 PM
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124 tc

I run the Bandit Sportsman in my 124 which I've put about 7k miles on since built and clutch pull is much heavier than if you would run the variable pressure units. My buddy runs the rivera setup (non vpc) in his 120" which has done very well and has about 12k miles on that. Only primary changes we have are the baker hd primary bearing. Enjoy!


Quote:
Originally Posted by pat123 View Post
In about to pull the trigger on a S&S 124LC for my 2013 road glide. Other than the 58mm throttle body,5.3g injectors,clutch and oil lines should I do stuff to the trans and primary to hold up to the extra torque and hp.

I was told that I should replace the following with Baker drivetrain parts

Baker attitude adjuster for the primary

Baker heavy duty throw out bearing

Baker Street door

Baker high torque inner primary bearing


What clutch should I run. I was told that evolution industries diamond terminator. I have never heard of this clutch. Is it any good?

I want a dependable touring bike. I don't want stuff to break so I want to build it once the right way.

If there is anything that I'm missing please let me know.

Thanks

2011 Road Glide Custom
2006 Street Glide 124 - SOLD
1999 Road Glide
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 09:27 PM
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ss 124

Buddy of mine did this this spring something to be aware of his pipes would not clear the cam cover and had to massage them a lot to clear. The option he wish he would have went with was have them build it in a se crankcase rather then an ss case . He is running a d&d fat cat may not be a problem with duals.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 07-17-2014, 04:56 AM
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Baker doesn't make an IPB for the late model trans like yours. Best bet is install a new Harley one and clean the shaft very good and the race and red loctite it good. If it slips, you might try mixing green and red loctite together. Green by itself is pretty much like welding it on and has to be heated to glowing red hot to get loose. The Baker street door is a must IMO with this big motors to maintain full width gear contact patch. The helical cut gears in the 6 speeds naturally try to push away from each other under load and with an S&S 124, there's loads of load. Attitude adjust and heavy duty throwrow out bearings are cheap insurance and you're already there. You could save a few bux and weld the auto tensioner but I'd run the Baker stuff. As for Evolution Industries... bullet proof... Made of billet steel and available in stock 46 or 49 tooth versions. The 49 tooth comes with new longer Diamond chain. If you do run the 49 tooth (I do) and the auto tensioner welded (I don't) you have to cut the back of the stock shoe off to allow correct angle of chain to roll onto the larger sprocket on the bottom of the clutch. Evolution makes clutch parts for Barnett, AIM and Rivera. They are the best of the best. Super strong but not cheap. Check out their website and look at all their products. Call them up and talk to Andre. He is the new foreman over the motorcycle parts. Nacho up and quit. Just got a new 49 tooth in the other day and have dealt with Andre a couple times. He seems eager to help and I'm sure he'll answer any questions you might have. Only other thing I'd recommend is the Darkhorse comp which john at Hoban told me is very close to done. If you can't get one, get the latest SE version and run ATF fluid in the primary. You also need to run at least every other spring in the clutch with the red springs and you might get by with alternating every other red spring with a blue or yellow. Can't remember which one is the heavier. Your chain with stretch considerably with the first few hard twists but with the attitude adjust, after it's stretched, one more adjustment should pretty much cure it. L of these companies and premium made in the USA parts that will stand behind their products. I jVe the sMr build on my bike and doing another one for a customer in the shop now.
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