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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 01:36 AM Thread Starter
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2012 comp sprocket

heres what I found at 22000kms. im sure it was gone at 12000
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12 FLTRX, Bassani Road rage, Roland sand AC, Thundermax, 16" Apes, custom wheels, SE 255 cams,Barnett Scorpion clutch, progressive 944 rear, Progressive mono lower 1inch front, and soon to come Baker 7 speed, and 11" Madstad, HD Daymakers

Last edited by waynemags; 07-16-2014 at 01:39 AM.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 08:23 AM
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Did the vulcanworks solid sprocket on mine ~ Will never go back ~ SemperFi

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 05:08 PM
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Yup. Changed mine at 13000. Looked just like that maybe worse. Put the newer one in with the plastic thing that glues on the inside of the primary cover to oil it. It is different than the old one. Just opened the primary last night to check it as I am getting ready to do a 3000, mi trip and it looks good with 7000 mi on it.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-16-2014, 06:07 PM
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Did the vulcanworks solid sprocket on mine ~ Will never go back ~ SemperFi
+1 got 20k on mine.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 09:00 PM
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Hey wayne, did your compensator actually fail or is that just wear?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 09:46 PM
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Did the vulcanworks solid sprocket on mine ~ Will never go back ~ SemperFi
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+1 got 20k on mine.

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How would the vulcanworks solid sprocket work with a stock motor? I was looking into these but I'm nervous about it because I have 35k miles on my stock untouched engine and crank. I just took the primary apart for an oil leak and noticed the SE comp I put in awhile ago is worn pretty good and is due for replacing AGAIN.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Hey wayne, did your compensator actually fail or is that just wear?
first symptom was clutch and ratle and clutch slip. pulled clutch and steels all burned. could not adjust. got louder as far as rattle and clunck when shutting down. ive been riding HD for 26years. first time ever burned a clutch. do all my own work. warranty is useless. only reason they have it now is because theres a possibility that it took the flywheel out as well as bearings. they can swallow that bill. if you have any concei=rns about noise and stuff and the bikes under warranty take it in and demand inspection. if not warrantied take it apart and look for wear. it will do more damage down the road.i guess you can call it a fail as far as wear. theres no way a compensator should look likethat at 13-20000kms. bad design and lack of oil in there. its a failure. not a happy camper. had rooms booked for sturgis and now the bike sits at HD in the lineup. compensators are backordered upwards of a month here in canada, harley has yet to do a recall.

12 FLTRX, Bassani Road rage, Roland sand AC, Thundermax, 16" Apes, custom wheels, SE 255 cams,Barnett Scorpion clutch, progressive 944 rear, Progressive mono lower 1inch front, and soon to come Baker 7 speed, and 11" Madstad, HD Daymakers

Last edited by waynemags; 07-22-2014 at 09:53 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-22-2014, 10:09 PM
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that sucks man, only reason I asked was im starting to show a little wear on mine and it has 11000 on it. good luck
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 10:34 AM
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need advice on fix

My comp is at the end of its life. Started hard starting quite awhile ago.
Now i feel like i can hear noise inside the primary while riding. Bike is parked for now until i can get it fixed, but not sure which direction to go.
i have a 2010 with a dragos 107" kit and Tman cams, and upgraded clutch.
I do not have compression releases or high tq starter.
Im afraid the comp may be taking my starter out too?
Do i just buy a new SE compensator and hope for the best?
any advice is appreciated. Oh, and hoping for the least expensive fix.
thanks!

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 07-24-2014, 11:35 AM
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My replacement SE comp is pretty much all done too and I have a stock engine. I've been looking into the BDL compensator because it's less expensive than the HD comps which is important if I have to keep replacing it every 10 to 15k miles. They don't use any springs and it's relatively a simple design. https://www.roadglide.org/showthread.php?t=162241 . I've also heard of the Dark Horse crankworks compensator that's supposedly coming out soon which uses a cush-drive design like the newer style rear hub assemblies on our bikes but the release has been pushed back for an unknowingly amount of time. That looks like a great design but a lot of us can't wait that long. There's also the Vulcanworks direct drive sprocket which I don't think I should go with that because my motor is completely bone stock and I don't want to pretzel my crank. My research seems to put the BDL somewhere in between the Vulcanworks sprocket and anything that HD has until Dark Horse releases their design.

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