Slappy compensator? What to look for? - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 02:25 PM Thread Starter
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Slappy compensator? What to look for?

Based on this thread (https://www.roadglide.org/showthread.php?t=159433), and others I get that there MAY be some loose spring or maybe the auto-tensioner isn't auto-tensioning?

The dealer gave me the "its normal" spiel. If I were to pull the primary cover this winter, what would I look for in terms of evidence of impending failure?

I don't get the 'shutdown clunk' people describe, but I have occasionally got the 'hard start' others have described, where it sound slike the whole thing binded up for a sec when turning it over.

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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 04:08 PM
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Do you get a grinding noise when trying to start sometimes? Metal shavings on the drain plug. You can adjust the tensioner by accelerating in 1st to 30 mph apply rear brake till it almost stalls without pulling in the clutch.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by FDR's RGC View Post
You can adjust the tensioner by accelerating in 1st to 30 mph apply rear brake till it almost stalls without pulling in the clutch.

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is this for real? Cant tell if your being sarcastic.

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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 09:58 PM
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is this for real? Cant tell if your being sarcastic.

D
Yes, it ratchets it up > tighter

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 10:07 PM
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Yes, it ratchets it up > tighter
ok thanks. Im a sucker so I needed to make sure

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-18-2014, 11:25 PM
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There is no need to tighten the primary chain prematurely. The stock tensioner will ratchet tighter as necessary. If you intentionally create slack in the chain to tighten the tensioner you will put excess strain on the inner primary bearing and transmission main bearing.

That is the problem with the stock tensioner. It will tighten, but it won't loosen without disassembly.

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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 12:25 AM
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don't accept the its normal Harley crap. get it in. it will destroy your clutch hub and eventually your crank. mines in right now at the dealer completely against my will for all the repairs. only because its under warranty and im tired of flipping the bill for their under engineered crap.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 07:42 AM
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ok thanks. Im a sucker so I needed to make sure

D.
To loosen, do the same in reverse.
+1 on what hullhorr said.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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No grinding noise when starting. Except that it seems like it'll bind and I have to turn it over again. I've read the how-to tighten the chain procedure, but had reservations that hullhorr mentioned.

There were metal shavings on the plug when I changed the oil at 5k, but only "a little amount". Maybe I'll make a trip down to the dealer where I got it (the local ones seem retarded).

@waynemags: Is that kind of abnormal wear visible with only pulling the cover off? I don't mind pulling the cover to know I have a problem, but disassembling anything else would likely have be causing more trouble than I started with.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-19-2014, 10:17 AM
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No grinding noise when starting. Except that it seems like it'll bind and I have to turn it over again. I've read the how-to tighten the chain procedure, but had reservations that hullhorr mentioned.

There were metal shavings on the plug when I changed the oil at 5k, but only "a little amount". Maybe I'll make a trip down to the dealer where I got it (the local ones seem retarded).

@waynemags: Is that kind of abnormal wear visible with only pulling the cover off? I don't mind pulling the cover to know I have a problem, but disassembling anything else would likely have be causing more trouble than I started with.
you will be able to see the wear on the ramps without tearing compensator apart. its pretty simple to get the comp apart and its not gonna cause any more problem than you already have. you can take the nut off with a breaker bar and reassemble without taking whole primary chain and everything out. just make sure to put a zip tie around the auto tensioner before you take the nut off. that way it stays under tension and you can put the comp sprocket back on and the chain with no issues. torque engine bolt to 140 ft lbs

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