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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 02:57 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Benton City Wa
Posts: 9
Engine stumble at mid range cruise

Hello all, just posted in the Newb section a little while back. I'm having some stumbling issues with my glide and it was suggested that I post up over here in the engine section.

I bought a 2006 with 24,000 miles on it about a month ago and have been riding and tinkering with it almost daily. When I got it the intake base was busted so I welded it up. Before I reinstalled it I cleaned the hell out of the intake tube cause it was obvious dirt and debris had been getting around a loose filter for who knows how long. The intake went back together nicely after that.

Next issue was a bad exhaust leak and a broken exhaust stud. I managed to get the stud changed without much issue and a couple of new gaskets had the leaks fixed up.

The tags on the bike say it hadn't been licensed in a little over a year, so I dumped some injector cleaner and sea foam in the tank and topped it off with premium fuel.

I have no idea what has been done to the engine, but I know it isn't stock cause it has screaming eagle parts all over the place. My problem is, without pulling it apart, how do I know what's been done to it? It has cnc ported heads and sounds to me like it has cams in it by the way it idles.

The biggest problem I'm having is a stumble at no load cruising speeds. It acts similar to bad gas but if I hit it hard it clears up and pulls like a freight train. On the freeway it runs great, 2500-3000 rpm it's just happy. Try to cruise through town at 25 and it is pissed! It seems to be the worst between 1500-2500 rpm, stumbling, stuttering and even popping occasionally. It pops and stutters under deceleration also, but I know I don't have any exhaust leaks anymore.

I've been reading up all over the place, and I think tomorrow I am going to check for a broken injector wire. May also pull the fuel pump assembly and change the fuel filter. While I'm in there I can check hoses and the regulator housing.

Some things I've already done include new plugs, injector cleaner, full fluid changes, and checked the battery terminals for corrosion and tightness.

I'm gonna have everything torn apart for a few days to put new tires on and install new brake pads so is there anything else you all can think of that I might have a look at while I'm in there?

Sorry about the novel, but I'm still learning the ways of the Harley.

I've got 2000 miles or so on it already and I'm loving it! Just wish I could fix the stutter and figure out exactly what I have for a power plant!

Harley Newb looking to learn
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 09:58 AM
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Location: Marengo Ohio
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I have a 13 with a stage 4 installed. Mine runs like crap if I go below 2000 rpm. In town cruising I keep it between 22 and 2500.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 10:09 AM
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Location: Port Orange, Fl
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Check the O2 sensor position. When you are in the closed loop it reads them.

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Rush True Duals,Air ride,Madstad, SE 255 cams, Ventilator,bunch of other stuff
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 10:18 AM
Join Date: Jun 2014
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when I bought mine used, it wasn't running right either. I bite the bullet and had it dyno tuned. Runs fantastic now.

2012 Road Glide Ultra
79HP 103 TQ, tuned by Ed at The Dyno Difference.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 10:29 AM
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Sounds to me like it is need of a tune.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 10:57 AM
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I'd start with spark plugs, wires and fuel filter. May not be the cause of your problem but it's a used bike and I'm sure you're not sure if or when those have been changed. I'd start fresh known good parts. Worst case scenario is you just performed regular maintenance. Edit-- just read your whole post

09 Mirage Orange Pearl

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 12:00 PM
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If the bike runs good at higher RPM than your injector wires are good. You may have dirty injectors or a intake vacuum leak.
You mentioned that you welded the intake you may have some pinholes in the weld that would cause a vacuum leak, a new intake would be a better way to go.
You also didn't know on how long the intake was broken and how much dirt passed by the air filter. The dirt that passed by the air filter could plug part of the injectors and it could cause valve, piston and cylinder wall damage.
The fuel filter and fuel lines is a good thing to check and R&R if needed, make sure the fuel filter housing is round and it is not oval. Also low fuel pressure could be a issue but it would seem that the fuel pressure issue would show up when at higher RPM.
Your bike doesn't have O2 sensors so that is not your problem.
If everything checks out good than you will need a new tune.

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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-21-2014, 05:34 PM
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From your description I believe your dealing with reversion from the cam overlap. Symptoms are engine stutters almost like it is missing at 2 to 5 percent throttle load such as you would find when trying to hold a steady but low speed as in traffic. It can sometimes be bad enough to cause the bike to begin bucking. If this is what your experiencing, it can be minimized with proper fuel and timing adjustments (normally it needs the fuel to be leaned out in the 2 to 5 percent TP range). A good dyno operator can make it much better or even completely disappear.

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 02:34 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Benton City Wa
Posts: 9

Well I may have misled with the intake welding statement. I actually welded the base for the air filter mount, not the actual intake horn.

The bike is in the shop at this point and it looks like a hand grenade went off in the middle of it. I have parts spread everywhere! The fuel filter will be replaced tomorrow, along with the rear tire, brakes pads and fuel pump screen if I can find one. It looks like there is some delamination in the bottom of the fuel rank that may have plugged up the fuel pump screen. I cleaned the tank out and attempted to clean the screen but it doesn't come off very easy, so it's not perfect.

I pulled the injectors and cleaned them up, but they really didn't look that bad. The injector wires seem to be in good shape and passed a continuity check while I wiggled them around. I got numbers off the injectors, so I can see which ones I'm running. Not sure where to check those numbers yet?

As a bonus, I found out my left front fork seal is leaking, so that's the next project I guess. I may as well dive in to that when I pull the handlebars to put the yaffe clamp on.

I did notice a decent wear mark in the front spark plug wire, so I'll probably replace that too.

At this point I haven't really found anything that stands out and looks like a problem. Most of what I've done can be chocked up to routine maintenance so I'm glad I did it anyway.

I think I'm in agreement with a lot of you guys in thinking it's in dire need of a good tune. I need to find a good dyno guy I guess. I've been looking maybe installing a power commander or something similar and trying a few of the online tunes, but I don't know how well that would work.

I really need to figure out what the hell has been done to this thing engine wise so I know what I'm talking about if I get a chance to do some dyno time.

Thanks for the replies and ideas guys, I'll try and keep this updated to let you know what I figure out as I go.

Harley Newb looking to learn
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 08:36 AM
Join Date: May 2014
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Also get a new set of stock HD plug wires, make sure your intake seals are sealing. If they've been setting and they're old, I'd replace them with new ones. They can intermittently leak as parts swell with heat etc. I'd also grab the wire harness gently where they plug into the injectors and gently do "the jiggle test". I've seen the wiring harnes for the injectors a bit too short and the wire can break inside the insulation. Another place to do that test is at the neck where the main harness runs by the neck. Also, check the bike for DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes) right from the odometer reset button. You can check each bank and write the codes down and clear them right from the odometer reset button. Also check fuel pressure and make sure the fuel lines inside the tank don't have any pin holes in them. Another one that can be intermittent and hard to chase down is a bad crankshaft position sensor. They are a magnet and I've seen them misfire after getting warmed up. They have a magnet in them and when they get hot, the magnet, if broken, can separate itself from it's other half and cause random misfire. Also make sure your ECM connection is nice and clean and right. A little dielectric grease can prevent future problems. Other than that, make sure your ground to your battery and the oposite end of the battery cable are clean and spit the area that it fastens to. If all of these things check out, it sounds like it timeto get it to a competent dyno tuner and get it tuned. Make good tune is the best money spent on an air cooled Harley IMO, even if they're stock. One other thing I forgot to mention, it's time for you to check you can chain tensioners also. Not catching them in time can be catastrophic but if you do catch the in time it's really nothing to sweat. Aside from those things, condrulations on the new bike! With a service manual and the help of forums, you may surprise yourself with how much you can do if you're handy with a wrench! Let us know what you find.
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