30T trans pulley for 120R '13 FLTRX - belt teeth? - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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30T trans pulley for 120R '13 FLTRX - belt teeth?

Hi all, comments welcome. Experience preferred.

I've decide against a cam change by Tman and will do a rear pulley change and cheat with mathematics.

30T off a TriGlide on the stock 68T rear wheel pulley. StCharlesHarleyDavidson.com has all 1" Gates belts...

What # tooth belt required to keep proper tension/adjustment?

I want to ensure my guy @ Ray Price performance is spot on.

Yes, I will adjust 6th light and speedo with my TTS. No cruise.

Tks much,
Josh

2013 FLTRX120R (For Sale)
2012 FLTRU Ember Red (Sold in 2015)
2010 FLSTN Red/Blk (saving for the kid)
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRB_RME5 View Post
Hi all, comments welcome. Experience preferred.

I've decide against a cam change by Tman and will do a rear pulley change and cheat with mathematics.

30T off a TriGlide on the stock 68T rear wheel pulley. StCharlesHarleyDavidson.com has all 1" Gates belts...

What # tooth belt required to keep proper tension/adjustment?

I want to ensure my guy @ Ray Price performance is spot on.

Yes, I will adjust 6th light and speedo with my TTS. No cruise.

Tks much,
Josh

As per Baker Driveline, using a 30/68 combination you would use a 139 tooth belt.

http://bakerdrivetrain.com/cruise-drive-pulleys

EVO Industries has a 49 tooth clutch hub and Primary chain which would also do the same for changing your ratio. Page #11 >> http://evolution-industries.com/pdfi...motorcycle.pdf


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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 10:19 AM
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Make sure that you use a GATES POLYCHAIN belt. Stay away from the FALCON belts. They are much better. And yes, a 139 belt is correct.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 11:11 AM
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Are you looking for more power or more top end? If you want more top end and better fuel economy you can use a 66 tooth rear pulley from the 08 touring models. The 08 and later touring models have the rear wheel compensator.
The OEM front pulley is a 32 tooth pulley so going smaller will give you more power but you will lose top end, a drop of 2 teeth on the front may be to low and it will increase your cruise rpm considerably.


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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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thanks all. i've read about the falcons and will stay OEM (pulley and belt).

2013 FLTRX120R (For Sale)
2012 FLTRU Ember Red (Sold in 2015)
2010 FLSTN Red/Blk (saving for the kid)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 12:37 PM
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You have to use an aftermarket belt if your using 30T pulley and 139 belt. Harley doesn't make a belt with 139 t for your 13 Fltrx.

Owns " One of those big wheel baggers" you can't ride
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Gates manufacturers all HD belts, yes?
What about the Gates PC-139-1? With the TG 30T pulley.

2013 FLTRX120R (For Sale)
2012 FLTRU Ember Red (Sold in 2015)
2010 FLSTN Red/Blk (saving for the kid)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2014, 07:56 PM
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That works. Same setup I have and I've not babied it at all.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-15-2014, 01:19 PM
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I was going to go this route but then I blew up my stock transmission.

I've now got a Baker DD7 in there and my god, I am happy with the gearing.

Plus I can still run up and down the highway at 90mph without breaking a sweat.

Not sure if you've ever even considered the swap but it solves the gearing issues, and you're already tearing into the bike pretty far. Transmission comes out with a couple more tools....

2011 RG Custom, Screaming Eagle Stage IV (260 Cam), Barnett Scorpion clutch, Hayden M6, Baker DD7, V&H Throttlepak, V&H Power Duals w/Hi-Output Slipons
115.4 ft-lb & 122.7hp : 1/4 Mile 12.542 @ 105.99 w/stock clutch and transmission
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014, 11:37 PM
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You can use the stock belt. Which is a better longer lasting belt than you can buy in the aftermarket . You just need to elongate the axle slot on the swing arm by .250. Did mine with a carbide bur on a die grinder. It's well worth the gearing change. I would not go back!
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