Heads and cam on 2011 103 questions - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-13-2015, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Heads and cam on 2011 103 questions

I have a 2011 RGU with Big Sucker intake and Rhinehart 2 into one tuned with Power Commander 4. What is the best bang for the buck? Can 100/120 be achieved with reliability or is this too much? I like to ride long distance and have fun in the twisties but hate it when my club brothers smoke me off the line. What is a good compromise. I'd like to do my head work the same time I put a cam in and I'd like them to match. A previous post showed me looking at Dave Mackies stuff but it doesn't look like a lot of guys know anything about him.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-13-2015, 05:47 PM
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All it takes is money. Big power down low breaks bottoms and primary components if you have a lot of power and a lot to get moving. HD valve trains also hate hole shots. Horsepower motors turning 6500rpms smoke rings and valve trains but IME are not as hard on the drive parts. Find a happy medium talking to a builder. IMO you'd do best running with them from the pocket and showing your back fender once you get her moving.

20 guys can dispute my statements, they're just my experience breaking stuff. Roll-on from 2500-5500 is the way I went his time. Time will tell.


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2015 113" 125/131
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-13-2015, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Sleepybagger View Post
All it takes is money. Big power down low breaks bottoms and primary components if you have a lot of power and a lot to get moving. HD valve trains also hate hole shots. Horsepower motors turning 6500rpms smoke rings and valve trains but IME are not as hard on the drive parts. Find a happy medium talking to a builder. IMO you'd do best running with them from the pocket and showing your back fender once you get her moving.

20 guys can dispute my statements, they're just my experience breaking stuff. Roll-on from 2500-5500 is the way I went his time. Time will tell.
That is some good advice. I do have some extra weight and then I add tools and extra crap that accumulates. The TW777 looks tempting but the Andrews 57H may be a better compromise. I'm looking at the bottom end port and polish jobs from Fuel Moto, Hillside, and Dragos since they seem to be the men on campus here who answers questions. I just want the most for what I'm doing and I know from working on cars that the heads are where it's at.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PF120 View Post
1.900 headwork flowing 255+ @ 28"
S&S .570 cams
compression set at 10.25-1
this will be a VERY reliable build and make 105/120 out of a 103"
Thanks for the advice. What does the 28" part mean? I get the cfm...I think.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNorm View Post
I have a 2011 RGU with Big Sucker intake and Rhinehart 2 into one tuned with Power Commander 4. What is the best bang for the buck? Can 100/120 be achieved with reliability or is this too much? I like to ride long distance and have fun in the twisties but hate it when my club brothers smoke me off the line. What is a good compromise. I'd like to do my head work the same time I put a cam in and I'd like them to match. A previous post showed me looking at Dave Mackies stuff but it doesn't look like a lot of guys know anything about him.

As I alway said the head work doesn't make that much difference but if you want to get the most out of your engine that you can then head work helps.
Fuel Moto just posted their new dyno sheet section on their website so you can get an idea of what you can achieve out of a 103 engine and 100/120 just isn't going to happen out of a 103 and it is going the be hard to get that out of a 107 too.
A 103 with TW 777 cams and stock heads will give you 100 HP and 113 lb ft of torque.
A 103 with TW 777 cams and Fuel Moto level B heads will give you 110 HP and 117 lb ft of torque.
A 107 with TW 777 cams and stock heads will give you 97 HP and 116 lb ft of torque .
A 107 with TW 777 cams and Fuel Moto level B heads will give you 108 HP and 119 lb ft of torque.
There are a lot more dyno sheets that you can look at but in general as you can see the heads were only increasing the torque by 3 to 4 lb ft and for the cost there isn't a lot of bang for the buck. The level B heads do show a significant HP increase but that only gives you bragging rights because torque is what gets you down the road.
Bumping the compression up to 10.25 to 10.50 will help and a good cam will give you more bang for the buck and still leave you with some money in your pocket.
If you really want to increase the torque and pass your club brothers then a 120 or 124 or larger engine is your real answer.


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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 01:22 PM Thread Starter
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124 is in the distant future. I want to run my stock cylinders out still which means I have at least one rebuild on them. Emptying my bags and going on a diet/exercise regimen probably won't hurt either. lol. Thanks for the input.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 01:27 PM
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If you plan on a bigger engine in the future then leaving the bike as it is and saving the money for the bigger power plant would be a good choice.
If you just want a little more get up and go then a cam upgrade will give you that without breaking the bank.


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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 05:08 PM
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Many different options here, really just depends on how much $$ your willing to spend. Research is key to your build. Take into account the fact that your riding the FLTRU, your weight, combined with your gear and whatever essentials you carry and the RPM range that you ride in most of the time. Don't worry if your bike doesn't leave the line as quick as your brothers, just as long as you can keep up or at least stay within a reasonable distance. Plenty of reputable builders here to help you achieve the power you are looking for. Ride on.


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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nsbohall View Post
Many different options here, really just depends on how much $$ your willing to spend. Research is key to your build. Take into account the fact that your riding the FLTRU, your weight, combined with your gear and whatever essentials you carry and the RPM range that you ride in most of the time. Don't worry if your bike doesn't leave the line as quick as your brothers, just as long as you can keep up or at least stay within a reasonable distance. Plenty of reputable builders here to help you achieve the power you are looking for. Ride on.
Weight is a big issue. I weigh as much as some people who ride 2 up. lol. I can keep up stock. It just bugged the crap out of me watching my bud chirp his rear tire in every gear he hit on his... Yamaha cruiser. I don't drag race regularly. It's usually just to work and back and a long weekend now and then when I'm lucky. Thanks for your reply.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 05:46 PM
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No matter what you do, there will always be a faster gun. I prefer to opt out.
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