Gear driven Cam for 15 FLTRXS - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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Gear driven Cam for 15 FLTRXS

Has any one installed or been using SS gear driven Cam's in There new Bikes I am interested?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2015, 10:22 AM
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Don't waste your money! The gear drive cams where fine for the older 88 inch bikes but they aren't that good for the new bikes.
First of all you can't have a crank runout that exceeds .004 and the crank run out on the new bikes are in HD specs up to .012 so if your crank runout is over .004 you will grenade the gears.
The chain drive with the hydraulic cam chain tensioners are pretty much a bullet proof setup and the bike will run trouble free for a long time just the way it is.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2015, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadglideMike12 View Post
Has any one installed or been using SS gear driven Cam's in There new Bikes I am interested?
I would not go there on these later model bikes. The runout almost always is more the the allowable amount to run gear drives. Also, with the newer cam plate designs and the hydraulic tensioners, the power loss is minimal because the correct pressure is being applied to the cam chain. I run gear drive on my 04 and it does great but back then Harley kept tighter specs on the crank runout.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2015, 12:02 PM
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As the others have already said don't go with gear drive cams unless or until you decide to have the crank trued.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2015, 07:15 AM
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If the TIR on the pinion shaft is .003", then you can use a gear drive set up.
IF the crank sissors, you'll hear a whine that'll be in cadence with the engine, and .004" will not grenade the gears.....it takes much more than that.
IF it did happen, and was ignored, the large gear will loose several teeth, in the worst of circumstances.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-22-2015, 07:53 AM
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But here's the question then. Whats the upside of gear driven cams given the reliability now of chain driven?

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If the TIR on the pinion shaft is .003", then you can use a gear drive set up.
IF the crank sissors, you'll hear a whine that'll be in cadence with the engine, and .004" will not grenade the gears.....it takes much more than that.
IF it did happen, and was ignored, the large gear will loose several teeth, in the worst of circumstances.
Scott

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 05:05 AM
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The upside of a gear drive set-up is 1) dead-balls valvetrain timing accuracy, 2) no more worries in regards to wear on the hydraulic chain shoes as they are now gone, and 3) increased power, as we performed back/back testing over a decade ago, and the gear drive set-up had shown 2 1/2-3 1/2 hp and torque accross the board, all else same/same.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 10:40 AM
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Save your money, the newer chain drives are very good, quiet too. S&S only makes 3 gear sizes, so one could end up with more noise than the chain set up.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hillsidecycle.com View Post
The upside of a gear drive set-up is 1) dead-balls valvetrain timing accuracy, 2) no more worries in regards to wear on the hydraulic chain shoes as they are now gone, and 3) increased power, as we performed back/back testing over a decade ago, and the gear drive set-up had shown 2 1/2-3 1/2 hp and torque accross the board, all else same/same.
Scott
I buy 1 and 3, 2 isnt really an issue any longer.

I think there are other variables in valve train accuracy - the accumulation of tolerances of all the parts, and pushrod adjustment, but I get what you're saying.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2015, 12:27 PM
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Running S&S 635G's in my 113 with a S&S crank. At idle no more noise then the SE259's made before I went adjustable pushrods. Off idle and running up they're quiet. I prefer gear drive cams for consistent valve timing for tens of thousands of miles. Gear drive vs chain drive: thank God we still have freedoms.
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