Paper build 117 - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Paper build 117

Out of all my new found knowledge I've learned what I think I will do when I do my next build. I would like to build a reliable 120/120 motor that runs on pump gas. I think I'd send the bottom end to Darkhorse to blueprint it and clean up the stock assembly, have the Timken bearing upgrade done and have the stock crank trued, welded and balanced. Once I got that back I'd install the 1 1/8 cylinders and pistons. What would be a good cam and compression ratio to run with this setup? What am I missing? I think it makes the best of what I've got without going overboard.

2011 Road Glide Ultra, Andrews 57H, VeeTwin Performance street port, Big Sucker Intake, Rhinehart 2/1 w 4" muffler, Power commander V, Paugcho 17" bars, Stock seat recovered with leather, Michelin Comander II 140/80B front, Yokohama Envigor 205/60/16 rear. It's better on the dark side.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 05:14 PM
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Don't want to go to big with the 1-1/8 pistons. Might be more than you can handle. You should probably stick to paper builds and leave the real builds to the professionals.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNorm View Post
Out of all my new found knowledge I've learned what I think I will do when I do my next build. I would like to build a reliable 120/120 motor that runs on pump gas. I think I'd send the bottom end to Darkhorse to blueprint it and clean up the stock assembly, have the Timken bearing upgrade done and have the stock crank trued, welded and balanced. Once I got that back I'd install the 1 1/8 cylinders and pistons. What would be a good cam and compression ratio to run with this setup? What am I missing? I think it makes the best of what I've got without going overboard.
You might be able to get the S&S crank for about what the cost of correcting your crank. Then you would have a great crank.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 10:36 PM
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Originally Posted by harley75 View Post
Don't want to go to big with the 1-1/8 pistons. Might be more than you can handle. You should probably stick to paper builds and leave the real builds to the professionals.
Dayum! Tough crowd.LOL

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-10-2016, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Smarty View Post
You might be able to get the S&S crank for about what the cost of correcting your crank. Then you would have a great crank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigNorm View Post
Out of all my new found knowledge I've learned what I think I will do when I do my next build. I would like to build a reliable 120/120 motor that runs on pump gas. I think I'd send the bottom end to Darkhorse to blueprint it and clean up the stock assembly, have the Timken bearing upgrade done and have the stock crank trued, welded and balanced. Once I got that back I'd install the 1 1/8 cylinders and pistons. What would be a good cam and compression ratio to run with this setup? What am I missing? I think it makes the best of what I've got without going overboard.

120/120 is within reach with keeping reliability. You should talk to whoever is going to be doing your heads for their recommendation for which cams and what compression to run. I would also consider an S&S crank vs having the stock one reworked.

2018 FLTRU S&S 124 cyl & piston kit with assorted goodies (136 hp 140 tq)SAE
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 06:50 AM
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120/120 from a 117" engine is not a large expectation.
Those will easily show 130/135 ft/lbs, and hp usually hovering at/near 130/135 also.
Wood cams dyno library has one example we built years ago that went 141/144........totally streetable, pump gas friendly.
Another I will make mention we built from San Jose, CA, tuned at RC Cycles in Hayward, CA........117"/10.0cr/our Stage IV Heads/Supertrapp/55mm HPI.....heres the cam.....a little Wood TW-6G that he was running in his 88"...........125/136, 120 ft/lbs from 2300-5300!!
Surpised us as well.
Finishing 3, 117" engines currently.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
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Don't want to go to big with the 1-1/8 pistons. Might be more than you can handle. You should probably stick to paper builds and leave the real builds to the professionals.
You go ahead and do that sparky. They need your business.

2011 Road Glide Ultra, Andrews 57H, VeeTwin Performance street port, Big Sucker Intake, Rhinehart 2/1 w 4" muffler, Power commander V, Paugcho 17" bars, Stock seat recovered with leather, Michelin Comander II 140/80B front, Yokohama Envigor 205/60/16 rear. It's better on the dark side.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Hillsidecycle.com View Post
120/120 from a 117" engine is not a large expectation.
Those will easily show 130/135 ft/lbs, and hp usually hovering at/near 130/135 also.
Wood cams dyno library has one example we built years ago that went 141/144........totally streetable, pump gas friendly.
Another I will make mention we built from San Jose, CA, tuned at RC Cycles in Hayward, CA........117"/10.0cr/our Stage IV Heads/Supertrapp/55mm HPI.....heres the cam.....a little Wood TW-6G that he was running in his 88"...........125/136, 120 ft/lbs from 2300-5300!!
Surpised us as well.
Finishing 3, 117" engines currently.
Scott
Thanks Scott. I was thinking of a build that can run on low octane gas too.

2011 Road Glide Ultra, Andrews 57H, VeeTwin Performance street port, Big Sucker Intake, Rhinehart 2/1 w 4" muffler, Power commander V, Paugcho 17" bars, Stock seat recovered with leather, Michelin Comander II 140/80B front, Yokohama Envigor 205/60/16 rear. It's better on the dark side.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 06:27 PM
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I think you missed the whole point of my sarcasm. Here is a hint, look up 1-1/8 pistons.

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