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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 12:17 PM Thread Starter
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Need advice, not sure what the problem is

My apologies, as I try to explain what is happening, so please bare with me.

when I am riding and the bike is cold, no problems everything is just dandy, but I noticed that once the bike is up to temp by bike has trouble revving above 3000rpms, regardless of gear...for example. stopped at a red light bike up at temp, shift into first, my friction zone is at the very end of letting the lever out. not only that but as I roll on the throttle the engine revs but its not transferred to the wheel(slipping clutch???), the bike catches and starts to move but the wrist inputs don't match the revenging of the engine, the tach needle bounces all over the place, the foot shifter feels solid and has a definite clunk into gear but as I said nothing is transferred to the wheel...

I hope I am explaining this clearly, the bike is a 2012 FLTRX stage 4, has a Harley hydraulic clutch conversion, with about 30000 miles, the engine sounds fine... im thinking maybe the clutch pack???

i checked for codes, had a historical code of U1097 ""loss of speedometer serial data EFI" but i don't think that's it, i didn't get a code notification while riding, but who knows, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra206 View Post
My apologies, as I try to explain what is happening, so please bare with me.

when I am riding and the bike is cold, no problems everything is just dandy, but I noticed that once the bike is up to temp by bike has trouble revving above 3000rpms, regardless of gear...for example. stopped at a red light bike up at temp, shift into first, my friction zone is at the very end of letting the lever out. not only that but as I roll on the throttle the engine revs but its not transferred to the wheel(slipping clutch???), the bike catches and starts to move but the wrist inputs don't match the revenging of the engine, the tach needle bounces all over the place, the foot shifter feels solid and has a definite clunk into gear but as I said nothing is transferred to the wheel...

I hope I am explaining this clearly, the bike is a 2012 FLTRX stage 4, has a Harley hydraulic clutch conversion, with about 30000 miles, the engine sounds fine... im thinking maybe the clutch pack???

i checked for codes, had a historical code of U1097 ""loss of speedometer serial data EFI" but i don't think that's it, i didn't get a code notification while riding, but who knows, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Adjust the clutch pack in the primary.

2010 FLTRX , Stage 1, 13" Madstad, Mono tubes, SuperShox, Heritage style bars. Alpine CDE-HD149BT,Soundstream Picasso Nano Series PN4.520 , 5X7 and 6.5 Infinity Kappa speakers
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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Adjust the clutch pack in the primary.
If you are referring to the standard clutch adjustment you would make with a cable clutch... The hydraulic clutch doesn't have it.
Is there another adjustment procedure for the clutch pack (on a hydraulic clutch)?
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 04:19 PM
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Hmmm. Not sure about your conversion kit, but if it's what they're putting on the later model bikes, from what I'm reading there is no adjustment for the newer Harley hydraulic clutch packs. My bike is too new, and I haven't delved that far into it yet, so can't say. The newer bikes have a recall, but it's opposite of the problem you're describing, and that is that the clutch won't disengage, where it sounds like your problem is that the clutch won't engage. My first thought was the same as Big_Gary, that you had some slipping going on in the clutch pack. You've got the primary cover off, and I don't want to insult your intelligence, so I'll assume you checked that you have the correct level of clean fluid in your primary. From the picture, it looks like you're running the stock clutch pack, with the clam style damper spring. The Screaming Eagle and similar after market assemblies have adjustable coil springs. I'm just wondering if maybe with the Stage 4 kit, you've got some premature clutch failure going on. Pull the plug on your primary and see if you don't have a load of debris on the magnet. Hopefully one of the "wrenches" on the forum will kick in an answer for you. To me, it sounds like a clutch issue though. Any modifications to the bike just prior to the problem, did you notice it getting progressively worse, or did it just "pop up"? Keep us posted if you find a solution.

Last edited by BlazingSaddle; 08-08-2016 at 04:45 PM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by BlazingSaddle View Post
Hmmm. Not sure about your conversion kit, but if it's what they're putting on the later model bikes, from what I'm reading there is no adjustment for the newer Harley hydraulic clutch packs. My bike is too new, and I haven't delved that far into it yet, so can't say. The newer bikes have a recall, but it's opposite of the problem you're describing, and that is that the clutch won't disengage, where it sounds like your problem is that the clutch won't engage. My first thought was the same as Big_Gary, that you had some slipping going on in the clutch pack. You've got the primary cover off, and I don't want to insult your intelligence, so I'll assume you checked that you have the correct level of clean fluid in your primary. If you feel up to it, change the fluid, and check the plug to see if it's covered in debris. Maybe with the Stage 4 kit, you've been a little harder on the clutch, and you've got some premature clutch failure. Hopefully one of the "wrenches" on the forum will kick in an answer for you. To me, it sounds like a clutch issue though. Did you do anything to the bike prior to the problem, did you notice it getting progressively worse, or did it just "pop up" on you? Keep us posted if you find a solution.
Yup did all the "regular" checks, checked fluid in the primary, clean(ish) and at the proper level... Even checked the hydraulic
Reservoir to make sure it's at the proper levels, no insult taken (you never know I might have missed something)

Seemed to start after the hydraulic clutch was installed... One guy I spoke to mentioned that there is the possibility that due to the fact that hydraulic clutches don't need/ have the adjustment of a cable clutch, my clutch pack may just be worn, to the point that the hydraulic arm can't engage it, where as with a cable clutch you could tighten up the cable to make up for the wear... Just a thought, although it makes sense to an amateur mechanic like myself...
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cobra206 View Post
If you are referring to the standard clutch adjustment you would make with a cable clutch... The hydraulic clutch doesn't have it.
Is there another adjustment procedure for the clutch pack (on a hydraulic clutch)?
Yup ,no adjustment on the newer hydraulic clutch packs. I assumed you just had the cable assist hydraulic lever.
Is the hydraulic level full. I heard if it's just a little low it can cause slippage.

2010 FLTRX , Stage 1, 13" Madstad, Mono tubes, SuperShox, Heritage style bars. Alpine CDE-HD149BT,Soundstream Picasso Nano Series PN4.520 , 5X7 and 6.5 Infinity Kappa speakers
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 05:38 PM
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Maybe try and bleed the hydraulic clutch system and see if that helps. I found by mistake that the hydraulic clutch system does not like to be even the slightest bit low on fluid.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 05:38 PM
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when you say trouble revving above 3000rpm do you mean that your clutch is slipping above that threshold, or do you mean your engine won't rev that high? if the former, same problem. if the latter, then you have 2 problems that you need to deal with.

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 05:56 PM
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Don't nosht about HD hydraulic clutches,
Large displacement Metrics; pressure plate suspect...many have
after- six spring Al billet, cures it
or you may have the littlest amount of air in the Slave

The rod separates under pressure the plates from stell....
The pressure plate, when clutch lever released makes a positive pack, transferin power, right

If pack not worn, lack of pressure causes slip
I thinks the rod has to released, lever in, when replacing plate for it to to compress the pack

Either way it's an internal fix

Air in the Slave will also not allow full extention, like bakes
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-08-2016, 06:12 PM
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Not sure I'm reading this right but, did you say you replaced the oem clutch system on your '12 from an adjustable cable actuated to a hydraulic actuated and didn't bother to change out the friction plates and steels even though at the same time you upgraded to a stage 4 power increase? So your running an upgraded power plant on a worn clutch pack and wonder why it's slipping? May I ask why you went with the hydraulic, non-adjustable clutch without upgrading the clutch pack? I'm thinking you have possibly glazed a few of the friction disks and it is causing the clutch to slip. the high performance clutch pack from HD is only $179. with possible discounts from Pc pAin here on the forum (John @ horny toad hd). probably the cheapest and easiest fix after verifying that there is no air in the system.

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