Did my own compression test on my stage IV - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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Did my own compression test on my stage IV

Well I went down and got me one of those Actron compression testers from Autozone today and did my own comp test on my bike and I came up with 145psi front and rear when the bike was cold and then I warmed up the bike for 5 minutes and I got the same numbers. Put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders to check for a ring problem and the numbers did not change. The HD dealer said that they only got 130psi front and rear and the original builder said he got 170psi front and rear, I don't know how accurate my comp tester is but no matter what the comp is to low for a new stage IV build. I am still deciding on which way to go to fix this problem but right now I am waiting for my new Dragula 2 into 1 exhaust to come in.


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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 05:37 PM
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you are opening up the throttle wide open when cranking,right?
post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by prodrag1320 View Post
you are opening up the throttle wide open when cranking,right?
... speaking of (I don't have manual handy), but how do you hold the fly by wire throttle wide open when doing a compression test? I've never done it...
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 06:30 PM
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Subscribing to this thread also, ironmark I hope you get things worked out, this situation just plain sucks.

2010 FLTRX With Plenty of extras, goes by the name "Hardeshia"
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 06:45 PM
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Its a bad deal all the way around.

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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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you are opening up the throttle wide open when cranking,right?
Yes the throttle plate was wide open. On the TBW bikes you have take off the air filter to expose the throttle plate then you MUST UNPLUG the throttle control actuator so you don't damage the TCA motor then you can manually open the throttle plate and hold it open, you can hold the throttle plate open with a screwdriver or similar tool.


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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmark View Post
Well I went down and got me one of those Actron compression testers from Autozone today and did my own comp test on my bike and I came up with 145psi front and rear when the bike was cold and then I warmed up the bike for 5 minutes and I got the same numbers. Put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders to check for a ring problem and the numbers did not change. The HD dealer said that they only got 130psi front and rear and the original builder said he got 170psi front and rear, I don't know how accurate my comp tester is but no matter what the comp is to low for a new stage IV build. I am still deciding on which way to go to fix this problem but right now I am waiting for my new Dragula 2 into 1 exhaust to come in.

Based on this, I'd move forward to checking cam timing. The 15psi between the dealer and your gauge doesn't surprise me, on a 200psi gauge that's only 7.5% which is to be expected with garden variety gauges.
The oil test tells us there's likely nothing wrong with the pistons or cylinder walls.
I'd be tempted to ask the builder to do a compression check while you watch.

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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 08:53 PM
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Perhaps do a leak down test now, to see if there are valve leaking issues, or a valve being held open, due to improper cam installation.

Jeff

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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Perhaps do a leak down test now, to see if there are valve leaking issues, or a valve being held open, due to improper cam installation.

Jeff
The HD dealer did a leak down and they came up with 8%.


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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old 02-11-2013, 10:54 PM
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The HD dealer did a leak down and they came up with 8%.
Yeah, but they also got 15% less on the compression then you,.. I wouldn't go by anything they said based on what you know already. Do it yourself, and you know its done right.






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