so now with the lifer issue - Road Glide Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-14-2017, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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so now with the lifer issue

i am tossing the idea around of upgrading the cam when i have the lifter issue corrected.

i have tossed the idea around of doing it myself but the wife got a nice bonus today so..................

anyone have an idea of cost to have a private shop replace the lifters and then add a mild cam ?

i am not looking to be faster, just really looking for a better rumble out of the pipes and no they are not stock pipes.

if i go with a cam change, is there any other motor work that has to be done ? its a stock 2011.

just trying to get an idea of cost and what needs to be done.

sorry to sound like a dumb ass, but enjoying the time on the bike has always outweighed cam upgrade for speed.
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2011 RG ULTRA.
I RIDE. I FISH. HENCE THE THE ROD HOLDERS MOUNTED.
NOTHING LIKE DOING BOTH WHAT I ENJOY IN THE SAME DAY.
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 08:56 AM
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Yes do cams, tell wife they are worn out too.

12 RGU Ember Red Sunglow
Heated Hammock seat, CVO bars
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 09:24 AM
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Mild cam, lots of choices. Get a set of S&S lifters and cam of your choice, change at the same time. Might need pushrods also depending on the cam. I would do S&S pushrods also, just my opinion.
You will need to get it tuned after a cam change.
Find a reputable tuner in your area and talk to him before you start spending money.

I don't ride fast at all. However, getting up to the speed limit is the fun part!
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2009 Road Glide. 16 in Vindikta Wild Cats. Aquatic AV, Stinger 700X4 to MMats PA 601, Audiopipe horns.
Ground Zero 7X10 in the lids w/ sspn.4 1000d, tuned with DD Audio DSI-2. S&S 106, lifters, push rods and AC. Drago 2. CycleRama 575. Progressive monotones -1in. 12in. HD adjustable rear shocks. Painted inner fairing. Tuned with TTS. Blacked out!
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 10:33 AM
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I am now putting the HD Stage Kit Torque for my M8 RGU 2017, that includes a torque cam and push rods. Some soft upgrade for better ruble and torque.

The dealer is charging me more hours than expected, but in anycase, it is not a big deal. It requires new tunning.

https://www.harley-davidson.com/stor...-ii-torque-kit

With this kit, I keep my warranty
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-15-2017, 04:57 PM
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Just rough numbers but lifters around 200, cam 300-400, pushrods 150ish, tune 400ish. If you don't have a tuner you will need one, 300-400. I am only guessing at labor but I wouldn't be surprised if thats not another 6hrs @ whatever the rate is in your area, $90 give or take. Cams are not a bad job if you have any mechanical experience, and would sure save some coin. It would probably save enough to pay for the cam and lifers
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2017, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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my local tuner gave me a guesstimation of 2000.00 -2400.00 for the cam upgrade which includes all parts and labor

the above post was pretty much right on.

so my wifes bonus was not that great so looks like i will take care of the engine noise whether it be the lifters or possibly the compensator. .

i also inquired about changing to fork oil. he said is the front end sagging ? no. are they leaking ? no.
leave it alone then until an issue arises. with 33k on it he feels if he takes the old oil out and puts in fresh , most likely with in a thousand miles the seals will leak . he said with the old oil and whatever so called sludge is in there, thats whats keeping the seals sealed. so no sense in spending the money on oil change then shortly after have to change them out .


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2011 RG ULTRA.
I RIDE. I FISH. HENCE THE THE ROD HOLDERS MOUNTED.
NOTHING LIKE DOING BOTH WHAT I ENJOY IN THE SAME DAY.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-16-2017, 12:32 PM
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I would kind of agree with him on the fork oil, but you will get lots of opinions on that one.

If you decide to do the cam change at home its a pretty straight up deal. The video that was posted in your other thread is a good watch if you have never done one before and a service manual sure comes in handy too. Plenty of help here if something doesn't feel right or look right to you.

I will tell you from experience several times as will many others on here to not get carried away with the size of the cam. Biggest is not always best, been there several times before I understood that. Find a cam that matches your riding style. Its a pain in the butt if your motor doesn't want to start working till 4000, and you are 2 up trying to leave a stop sign up a hill. If your solo and grab gears from block to block then thats a different story...

Good luck
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 12-17-2017, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow09SERG View Post
I would kind of agree with him on the fork oil, but you will get lots of opinions on that one.

If you decide to do the cam change at home its a pretty straight up deal. The video that was posted in your other thread is a good watch if you have never done one before and a service manual sure comes in handy too. Plenty of help here if something doesn't feel right or look right to you.

I will tell you from experience several times as will many others on here to not get carried away with the size of the cam. Biggest is not always best, been there several times before I understood that. Find a cam that matches your riding style. Its a pain in the butt if your motor doesn't want to start working till 4000, and you are 2 up trying to leave a stop sign up a hill. If your solo and grab gears from block to block then thats a different story...

Good luck
I agree 100%, i went with a Feuling 525 cam, low end torque right off of throttle thru 5200 RPM and its perfect in sound, deeper of course and alot more torque riding two up with the tour pak on, bigger is not better on a stock set up, to make the most out of your powerplant.

When all else fails, hell there is always beer!
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